Pulsar XQ50 Trail, moving with temperature, with pics

JCCinOhio

JCCinOhio

Member
So someone had the idea to set the scope up on a solid base, and use the remote to take pics as the unit went through temperature changes. These pictures are horrifying.. I had set it up on my deck first, with the scope coming from a 60'ish safe to about 30 degrees outside. Scope cooled for about 30 mins then I decided I should have done it on the concrete pad, so moved it and started over. These pics are all from the concrete pad. It was in the shade before I moved it, so the first pic is with it in the sun again, and somewhat in the middle of the 'head' of the IPSC target at 85 yds. At 11:59 on the clock I put a box to the side to give it shade.. Total movement is a bit over 7" at 85 yds. UGLY! Don't know what I'm going to do..

And before anyone asks about the mount.. It's a DLOC, screws are loctite'd at 30 in lb, and nut is torqued to 44 in lbs.. Remote was used whole time, gun never touched.

Oh, and the vertical dark stripe on the right 1/3rd is my bird feeder pole, not the scope..

Added: the last pic is 4 shots at ~75yds. Brought rifle out from inside the house at about 70 degrees, shot the 2 on the right. Let it cool to about 50 (30 mins or so), and shot two on left. So about a 2.5" difference. I was going to shoot them both at the right, but heated the 308 shell up too much and it washed out too much, so went for the foil tape.

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When I click on the image it comes up "error" and says that I have to be logged in to that, whatever "that" is.
 
Great idea, thx for sharing, ask for your $ back!! I think I have decided to go with Trijicon after seeing this. I was so excited to get the on board video and the PIP function. Its not worth it if the gun doesn't hold zero! I feel sorry for anyone that buys the new Pulsar with LRF. with those shifts on zero, there's no way your gonna hit something at 200 yards.
 
I can't get into those pictures but after all my testing I'm seeing approx 6 in of shift from house temperature to say 20 degrees. Definitely need to send this thing back.
 
You would think Pulsar would suspend the sale of these units? I hope at least the DEALERS are making people aware of this issue, and not selling it to them. It would be very wrong for them to sell a faulty product.
 
Originally Posted By: JCCinOhioPics should work now?

Yes, I can see the pics now.

Are all of the Trail models having this problem or only the XQ50?
 
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Im a huge Pulsar fan but sadly this is Very Bad. There is no way, shape, or form that this type of problem should continue to be sold without a fix.
 
It appears as the scope is cooling the reticle is shifting low left but yet in the later pictures it's shiftimg high right which seems odd. Is the scope continually cooling down in all those pictures as they are posted in order?
 
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I have a apex xq50 that should be here any day now. I got to say reading threw these threads are very disappointing to say the least. These scopes cost way to much money to have these types of problems
 
If you look at that trail platform half of the scope is missing on the right side where the battery goes. The other side of the scope has a big heatsink on it. Obviously there's nothing to expand or contract on the right half of the body of the scope where the battery goes and the left side I would think would be continually expanding with heat because even when the scope is cool that heat sink is warm. Basically the scope has a heater on its left side and nothing to support it on its right side. Seems like a bad design to me from a structural standpoint now that I see what's happening.
 
It was probably still cooling off from being brought outside, was out for about 30 mins before the first pic. So I took it out of the shade and set it up on the concrete.. First pic at 10:06, crosshairs centered on ‘head’.. 10:13, looks like it moved down and left an inch or so. 10:22 a good 3-4” low and inch or so left. 10:27, back to center for whatever reason? 10:43 heading back to left and a little low. 10:59 not much change from 10:43. But at 10:59 is when I moved a box to give it shade.. so in the shade, 11:09 it’s high and right, then 11:21 it’s 3-4” high and right.. I’d seen enough at that point.. pics should be in order, but look at the time stamp in lower right.

Originally Posted By: varminter .223It appears as the scope is cooling the reticle is shifting low left but yet in the later pictures it's shiftimg high right which seems odd. Is the scope continually cooling down in all those pictures as they are posted in order?
 
I don't think I've seen reports of problems with the Apex, so you may be good.

Originally Posted By: southernhoundhnterI have a apex xq50 that should be here any day now. I got to say reading threw these threads are very disappointing to say the least. These scopes cost way to much money to have these types of problems
 
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Originally Posted By: southernhoundhnterI have a apex xq50 that should be here any day now. I got to say reading threw these threads are very disappointing to say the least. These scopes cost way to much money to have these types of problems
From what I understand I'm pretty sure the Apex platform does not have this issue.
 
I'm going to see what my options are tomorrow. If I'm stuck with it I do have a plan that should work for night work.. I'll have to use my IR laser (may have to get a day laser too for day) and NVGs, and make sure they line up before going out, and then occasionally check while out.
 
Originally Posted By: JCCinOhioI'm going to see what my options are tomorrow. If I'm stuck with it I do have a plan that should work for night work.. I'll have to use my IR laser (may have to get a day laser too for day) and NVGs, and make sure they line up before going out, and then occasionally check while out. What do you think about trying this: leave it set up on concrete somewhere and sometime when the temp swing is not a factor. Im wondeing if the reticle is moving constantly regardless of temp. Maybe its moving becasue of its on heating and cooling system.
 
I think on one of the threads Kirsch said something about saving a couple different zeros on the unit for different temperatures, maybe zero one at 25 degree and another one at 35 and then 45, I'm not sure how any you can save but it might be worth trying.
 
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