Upland with a bow? What first bow?

Nice bows!! I think I'm leaning towards a Maddog longbow. Hopefully he can do a wood camo style for me like the ones shown on the link you just gave.

I'm gonna try and use wood arrows with turkey feathers and a stone broadhead.....at least for turkeys and such...for deer I might switch broadheads.
 
One thing I like about these white wolf bows is they shouldn't be too picky on the spine weight of the arrow or the material the arrow is made from since it is centershot.

Do arrows with the plastic veins work ok on longbows? Seems like the veins will hit the shelf and throw the shot off. Feathers will just lay down as they pass across the shelf.
 
That is what I thought. The bow is the easy part, selecting the right arrow seems to have way more variables and they are expensive too.

I'm hoping the maker of the bow can recommend what arrow to start with.
 
What color do you guys think I should get? I like the look of the black limbs but for the riser it is between these three. I kind of like the amazon the best but its a little bright for hunting but it looks so cool.

Kaibab forest green with black limbs

http://store03.prostores.com/servlet/1whitewolfcustombows/the-167/Target-Master-Longbow-37lb/Detail

High country with black limbs.
http://store03.prostores.com/servlet/1whitewolfcustombows/the-174/Longbow-46lb-riser-color/Detail

Amazon and black limbs
http://store03.prostores.com/servlet/1whitewolfcustombows/the-148/Longbow-46lb-riser-color/Detail
 
By the way,just because its a centershot, doesn't mean you wont have spine issues. Spine is mostly dependent on draw weight, nock position, and broadhead weight.

Sorry if that sounded rude, I wasn't sure how else to format it.
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Originally Posted By: EasternPredHunterBy the way,just because its a centershot, doesn't mean you wont have spine issues. Spine is mostly dependent on draw weight, nock position, and broadhead weight.

Sorry if that sounded rude, I wasn't sure how else to format it.
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+1
 
Also forgot to mention about the "stiff" side of the arrow. Mainly found on wood and some carbon(like the GrizzlyStik, which I'm getting). All you have to do is take time to tune your arrows to your bow, pick an appropriate head/broadhead for your intended purpose, and your ready to go.
 
Yep I realize the spine weight still needs to be right. From what I read it is less sensitive if it is centershot.

I looked at the grizzlystick and they look real nice but I think a little pricey for my first set of arrows that will probably get beat up. Also I'm guessing I want cheaper arrows for shooting small game on the ground, especially chukar that love rocks. Can't imagine arrows last long when shot into rocks and hard ground, if you can even find them.

I'm wondering with a 31" draw length what length arrow woudl I need ? Seems like the full length 32". That doesn't seem to leave much room for cutting down an arrow to tune it?

How about something like these. of course aluminum probably bends if shooting at the ground.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Easton-XX75-Camo-Arrows-with-Feathers/745147.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch_within.cmd%3Fform_state%3Ddefault_state%26searchWithin%3Dtrue%26N%3D0%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Darrows%26search%3Darrows%26nttWithin%3Dfeathers%26x%3D0%26y%3D0&Ntt=arrows&WTz_l=Unknown

Or these
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Stalker-Extreme-Carbon-Arrows-150-Feathers/745748.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch_within.cmd%3Fform_state%3Ddefault_state%26searchWithin%3Dtrue%26N%3D0%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Darrows%26search%3Darrows%26nttWithin%3Dfeathers%26x%3D0%26y%3D0&Ntt=arrows&WTz_l=Unknown
 
Yes you are correct, they aren't as sensitive.

I would go carbon if i shoot at rocks
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Keep in mind carbon is lighter, meaning less KE, but for small game it doesnt matter.

Yes those grizzlystiks are expensive, but you cant hardly break them.

Your gonna want AT LEAST an inch extra incase you overdraw in the heat of action.
 
Yeah the KE is fine because big game is a long ways off. I want to get a few more with my rifle and then my g-20, I may never even hunt big game.

I just want that extra 2 months of chuckar hunting!

Ok so your saying if my DL is 31 i need minimum 32" arrow?

I don't even see arrows longer than 32 so far. Isn't it actually a bit longer with the nock and the tip?

What weight tips should I be looking at? Just based on some reading and youtube video I'm guessing 125 gr. ?

Am I probably going to need to learn how to fletch my own arrows? I imagine the feathers get ruined easily.
 
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Even though a point can make your arrow longer it doesnt matter, part of the extra inch is broadhead clearance. If its not long enough it can fall from the shelf and shoot through your hand. At least 125. Im looking at 180-315 grain for myself. Learning how to refletch is a great idea. All you need are the feathers, a jig, and glue.
 
Think maybe it will be easier to go to the local archery shop with the bow and have them set me up with the right arrows. They have a range inside so maybe can test with the bare shaft to determine what spine weight I need.
 
I use Easton XX75 2216 aluminum arrows with 125 gr Zwickey Eskimo broadheads. I fletch them with the 5 1/2" high-back shield cut feathers from 3Rivers. I also use the fletching tape instead of glue and it makes fletching your arrows way faster and its just as durable.

Feathers can take quite a beating especially the one that goes across your shelf, but I've shot arrows where there was only half of a feather left and it shot just fine.

I like the zwickey judos for shooting small game, I've never seriously tried wingshooting though.
 
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Originally Posted By: Dan P.I use Easton XX75 2216 aluminum arrows with 125 gr Zwickey Eskimo broadheads. I fletch them with the 5 1/2" high-back shield cut feathers from 3Rivers. I also use the fletching tape instead of glue and it makes fletching your arrows way faster and its just as durable.

Feathers can take quite a beating especially the one that goes across your shelf, but I've shot arrows where there was only half of a feather left and it shot just fine.

I like the zwickey judos for shooting small game, I've never seriously tried wingshooting though.

I saw the zwicky judos. Do you use the small or large ones? what is the poundage of your bow and length of arrow? From what I can tell using the chart on easton website the xx75 I linked to above I need the 2018 but they don't have it in stock.

I don't actually have any sort of fantasy that I will ever hit something in the air. It is hard enough with a shotgun! I'm planing to ground sluce those chukar and especially gambels quail that always run infront of you but rarely fly. Definently going to whack some jackrabbits and cottontail!

I'm getting pretty pumped up! I live so far from rifle and shotgunning combined with ammo and gas prices I can't get out. I have a park with archery range(same range as 1984 olympics!) Right up the street 5 bucks to get in plus bass fishing same park. Once I know I can keep it on the target I will set up something in my back yard. Plus you can re-use arrows unlike bullets!
 
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I think I've used both sizes but mostly the small ones. My bow is rated 62lb @ 28" but I only pull 26-27" so I'm guessing between 55 and 60 is the actual weight that I pull. My arrows measure 28" from nock groove to end of arrow without the tip.

The 2018 is a little stiffer than my 2216, but thinner. I just looked at their chart and it looks a 2317 would work for you with a 32" shaft. Cabelas sells the XX75 Camo w/feathers for $65/dozen and this size is available. This is for a 125 gr tip.

If my draw weight is 55lb, I go on the stiff side with my spine, so an arrow rated for 55-60 for example. I couldn't remember what weight you were thinking of getting but the 2317 should work, plus the 2018 is pretty thin compared to most tips.

The good thing about the zwickey eskimo broadheads is they are tough. I would probably use these for rabbits and such and use the judos on birds. The eskimo can always be resharpened.
 
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