Great RED LED Long Range Weapon Mount Light Setup
- Thread starter SkyPup
- Start date
SkyPup
New member
It is wicked, a nice step up in what was already a top of the line quality light.
I even have one on my Ruger 10/22 for nailing night armadillos in my wife's rose garden and one on my SIG P-226 for the same purpose.
The new CREE XML LED is awesome in the Olight M-20X, but you do lose some run time on the battery as the only downside which is one of the reasons why I think the M-20 is about the best tactical weapon light out there.
BTW, the M-21X is super nice too if you need a little more boost than the M-20X, the user interface is not as conducive to a tactical weapon torch as the ones on the M-20 and M-20X though.
I even have one on my Ruger 10/22 for nailing night armadillos in my wife's rose garden and one on my SIG P-226 for the same purpose.
The new CREE XML LED is awesome in the Olight M-20X, but you do lose some run time on the battery as the only downside which is one of the reasons why I think the M-20 is about the best tactical weapon light out there.
BTW, the M-21X is super nice too if you need a little more boost than the M-20X, the user interface is not as conducive to a tactical weapon torch as the ones on the M-20 and M-20X though.
SkyPup
New member
Originally Posted By: rcpanicGot me a O-Light M-20 Crimson to use as a scan light. I took it out last night for the first time and i must say that....."I love it"!
Glad to hear it.
The M-20 Crimson is a very high quality Tactical Gun Light and not a "Toy Gun Light"... it certainly is my favorite too.
If you use it in conjunction with one of Jerimiah's RED KLR-250 single led lights with extended battery handle you will appreciate this combination even more!
Glad to hear it.
The M-20 Crimson is a very high quality Tactical Gun Light and not a "Toy Gun Light"... it certainly is my favorite too.
If you use it in conjunction with one of Jerimiah's RED KLR-250 single led lights with extended battery handle you will appreciate this combination even more!
R15 Predator
New member
Ok skypup....Burris rings are in and installed.....50mm leupold is problem one so I mounted the rail on the rear ring.....problem two is that my kill light 250 does not seem to fit in a 1" ring.....do I need a 30mm ring?
Shovelheadave
New member
That's pretty slick, I'm going to grab one. Thanks for the link.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/burris-xtreme-tactical-picatinny-weapon-ring-tops.html
http://www.opticsplanet.net/burris-xtreme-tactical-picatinny-weapon-ring-tops.html
Shovelheadave
New member
What height rings did you install ??
"Ok skypup....Burris rings are in and installed.....50mm leupold is problem one so I mounted the rail on the rear ring"
"Ok skypup....Burris rings are in and installed.....50mm leupold is problem one so I mounted the rail on the rear ring"
SkyPup
New member
Originally Posted By: R15 PredatorOk skypup....Burris rings are in and installed.....50mm leupold is problem one so I mounted the rail on the rear ring.....problem two is that my kill light 250 does not seem to fit in a 1" ring.....do I need a 30mm ring?
You can use a small picitanny rail riser to clear the 50mm diameter objective lens if you want, they come in various lengths and heights so you can choose the one that works for you:
http://www.amazon.com/UTG-Profile-Riser-Mount-slots/dp/B003TWX87S/ref=pd_sim_sg_11
I have not mounted my KLR-250 in my scope rings, I use it as a tripod mounted stationary scan light, so have not tried to put it into 1" diameter picitanny flashlight mount. The Olight M-20 Picitanny Offset Flashlight mount is what I am using, I have more than a half dozen of them and they are excellent for the Tactical 1" flashlight tubes:
http://www.amazon.com/TACTICAL-JETBeam-JET-III-Diameter-Flashlight/dp/B002ZYRV2E/ref=pd_sim_sg_7
If the one inch size does not fit the KLR-250, you may have to hunt up a larger diameter version for that particular light.
You can use a small picitanny rail riser to clear the 50mm diameter objective lens if you want, they come in various lengths and heights so you can choose the one that works for you:
http://www.amazon.com/UTG-Profile-Riser-Mount-slots/dp/B003TWX87S/ref=pd_sim_sg_11
I have not mounted my KLR-250 in my scope rings, I use it as a tripod mounted stationary scan light, so have not tried to put it into 1" diameter picitanny flashlight mount. The Olight M-20 Picitanny Offset Flashlight mount is what I am using, I have more than a half dozen of them and they are excellent for the Tactical 1" flashlight tubes:
http://www.amazon.com/TACTICAL-JETBeam-JET-III-Diameter-Flashlight/dp/B002ZYRV2E/ref=pd_sim_sg_7
If the one inch size does not fit the KLR-250, you may have to hunt up a larger diameter version for that particular light.
SkyPup
New member
For those who don't believe in vision science and technology, here is what we have been working on for the last twenty something years:
http://www.blindness.org/index.php?optio...&Itemid=120
You can read his personal story here:
http://www.amazon.com/Forever-Fix-Gene-T...mp;sr=8-1-fkmr0
http://www.blindness.org/index.php?optio...&Itemid=120
You can read his personal story here:
http://www.amazon.com/Forever-Fix-Gene-T...mp;sr=8-1-fkmr0
greenhornet-1
New member
That's awsome!!!!
Originally Posted By: R15 PredatorOk skypup....Burris rings are in and installed.....50mm leupold is problem one so I mounted the rail on the rear ring.....problem two is that my kill light 250 does not seem to fit in a 1" ring.....do I need a 30mm ring?
1in rings fit my 250 kill light.
but i need high or maybe x-high to clear the front of scope
1in rings fit my 250 kill light.
but i need high or maybe x-high to clear the front of scope
SkyPup
New member
Originally Posted By: bobeanoOriginally Posted By: R15 PredatorOk skypup....Burris rings are in and installed.....50mm leupold is problem one so I mounted the rail on the rear ring.....problem two is that my kill light 250 does not seem to fit in a 1" ring.....do I need a 30mm ring?
1in rings fit my 250 kill light.
but i need high or maybe x-high to clear the front of scope
You can use a small picitanny rail riser to clear the 50mm diameter objective lens if you want, they come in various lengths and heights so you can choose the one that works for you:
http://www.amazon.com/UTG-Profile-Riser-Mount-slots/dp/B003TWX87S/ref=pd_sim_sg_11
You can also use an offset mount to clear it too.
1in rings fit my 250 kill light.
but i need high or maybe x-high to clear the front of scope
You can use a small picitanny rail riser to clear the 50mm diameter objective lens if you want, they come in various lengths and heights so you can choose the one that works for you:
http://www.amazon.com/UTG-Profile-Riser-Mount-slots/dp/B003TWX87S/ref=pd_sim_sg_11
You can also use an offset mount to clear it too.
SkyPup
New member
I forgot to mention that the reason Olight Tactical torches cost more than the cheaper lights is that they are manufactured to Mil-spec: MIL-STD-810F.
The is the current US Department of Defense Military Specificaiton, none of those other elcheapo 2nd and 3rd class manufactured Chinese lights are certified to this standard.
http://www.dtc.army.mil/navigator/
In addition, both the Olight and Fenix advertisements list the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) certified out the front (OTF) lumen output tested under stringent conditions, none of the elcheapo lights do this.
http://www.ansi.org/
Do NOT try this with an elcheapo non-certified hunting flashlight!
The is the current US Department of Defense Military Specificaiton, none of those other elcheapo 2nd and 3rd class manufactured Chinese lights are certified to this standard.
http://www.dtc.army.mil/navigator/
In addition, both the Olight and Fenix advertisements list the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) certified out the front (OTF) lumen output tested under stringent conditions, none of the elcheapo lights do this.
http://www.ansi.org/
Do NOT try this with an elcheapo non-certified hunting flashlight!
SkyPup
New member
I would suggest a tighter beam with longer throw on the weapon for shooting and a beam with more spill for a scanning beam.
I use my KLR-250 as a static always on beam mounted on a tripod covering my caller and decoys and bait pile and use the M-20 Crimson on my rifle and in my hand for monetary scanning when needed.
So I am using at least three different lights at all times, the only one that is on all the time is the KLR.
Last night I was not hunting but I heard some hog squealing out near my feeder so I took out the Olight M3-X with green filter and Olight M-20 Crimson to see what was going on. There was a sounder group of hogs on the feeder 250 yards out and I proceeded to shine them nonstop for the next 3o minutes with both the green and red Olights, no hog was agitated or moved out of range during that time, ie the lights did not affect them in the least bit whatsoever.
I will most likely shoot a couple of them this weekend at night when I have some time to dress them out.
I use my KLR-250 as a static always on beam mounted on a tripod covering my caller and decoys and bait pile and use the M-20 Crimson on my rifle and in my hand for monetary scanning when needed.
So I am using at least three different lights at all times, the only one that is on all the time is the KLR.
Last night I was not hunting but I heard some hog squealing out near my feeder so I took out the Olight M3-X with green filter and Olight M-20 Crimson to see what was going on. There was a sounder group of hogs on the feeder 250 yards out and I proceeded to shine them nonstop for the next 3o minutes with both the green and red Olights, no hog was agitated or moved out of range during that time, ie the lights did not affect them in the least bit whatsoever.
I will most likely shoot a couple of them this weekend at night when I have some time to dress them out.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: SkyPupI would suggest a tighter beam with longer throw on the weapon for shooting and a beam with more spill for a scanning beam.
I use my KLR-250 as a static always on beam mounted on a tripod covering my caller and decoys and bait pile and use the M-20 Crimson on my rifle and in my hand for monetary scanning when needed.
So I am using at least three different lights at all times, the only one that is on all the time is the KLR.
Last night I was not hunting but I heard some hog squealing out near my feeder so I took out the Olight M3-X with green filter and Olight M-20 Crimson to see what was going on. There was a sounder group of hogs on the feeder 250 yards out and I proceeded to shine them nonstop for the next 3o minutes with both the green and red Olights, no hog was agitated or moved out of range during that time, ie the lights did not affect them in the least bit whatsoever.
I will most likely shoot a couple of them this weekend at night when I have some time to dress them out.
You had posted a pic that showed the Olight M-20 having more of a flood than the kill light. Yet you are using the kill light to scan and the Olight to gun? I'm a little confused?
I use my KLR-250 as a static always on beam mounted on a tripod covering my caller and decoys and bait pile and use the M-20 Crimson on my rifle and in my hand for monetary scanning when needed.
So I am using at least three different lights at all times, the only one that is on all the time is the KLR.
Last night I was not hunting but I heard some hog squealing out near my feeder so I took out the Olight M3-X with green filter and Olight M-20 Crimson to see what was going on. There was a sounder group of hogs on the feeder 250 yards out and I proceeded to shine them nonstop for the next 3o minutes with both the green and red Olights, no hog was agitated or moved out of range during that time, ie the lights did not affect them in the least bit whatsoever.
I will most likely shoot a couple of them this weekend at night when I have some time to dress them out.
You had posted a pic that showed the Olight M-20 having more of a flood than the kill light. Yet you are using the kill light to scan and the Olight to gun? I'm a little confused?
SkyPup
New member
Originally Posted By: Corn FedOriginally Posted By: SkyPupI would suggest a tighter beam with longer throw on the weapon for shooting and a beam with more spill for a scanning beam.
I use my KLR-250 as a static always on beam mounted on a tripod covering my caller and decoys and bait pile and use the M-20 Crimson on my rifle and in my hand for monetary scanning when needed.
So I am using at least three different lights at all times, the only one that is on all the time is the KLR.
Last night I was not hunting but I heard some hog squealing out near my feeder so I took out the Olight M3-X with green filter and Olight M-20 Crimson to see what was going on. There was a sounder group of hogs on the feeder 250 yards out and I proceeded to shine them nonstop for the next 3o minutes with both the green and red Olights, no hog was agitated or moved out of range during that time, ie the lights did not affect them in the least bit whatsoever.
I will most likely shoot a couple of them this weekend at night when I have some time to dress them out.
You had posted a pic that showed the Olight M-20 having more of a flood than the kill light. Yet you are using the kill light to scan and the Olight to gun? I'm a little confused?
I have two reflectors (stock orange peel and optional smooth) for my numerous Olight M-20 Crimson Red LED torches, the OEM reflector is an orange peel reflector that gives more spill than throw, I use this one for hand held scanning due to the larger area of coverage due to the greater spill.
The smooth optional reflector I use on my weapon mounted Olight M-20's for greater throw for shooting.
The KLR-250 Kill Light with its deep smooth reflector has a tighter beam with less spill than either of the Olight reflectors do, which is why I have it mounted on a tripod in a static position covering my Prairie Blaster and Jack Attack with a stationary beam out above my stand over my setup.
I use my KLR-250 as a static always on beam mounted on a tripod covering my caller and decoys and bait pile and use the M-20 Crimson on my rifle and in my hand for monetary scanning when needed.
So I am using at least three different lights at all times, the only one that is on all the time is the KLR.
Last night I was not hunting but I heard some hog squealing out near my feeder so I took out the Olight M3-X with green filter and Olight M-20 Crimson to see what was going on. There was a sounder group of hogs on the feeder 250 yards out and I proceeded to shine them nonstop for the next 3o minutes with both the green and red Olights, no hog was agitated or moved out of range during that time, ie the lights did not affect them in the least bit whatsoever.
I will most likely shoot a couple of them this weekend at night when I have some time to dress them out.
You had posted a pic that showed the Olight M-20 having more of a flood than the kill light. Yet you are using the kill light to scan and the Olight to gun? I'm a little confused?
I have two reflectors (stock orange peel and optional smooth) for my numerous Olight M-20 Crimson Red LED torches, the OEM reflector is an orange peel reflector that gives more spill than throw, I use this one for hand held scanning due to the larger area of coverage due to the greater spill.
The smooth optional reflector I use on my weapon mounted Olight M-20's for greater throw for shooting.
The KLR-250 Kill Light with its deep smooth reflector has a tighter beam with less spill than either of the Olight reflectors do, which is why I have it mounted on a tripod in a static position covering my Prairie Blaster and Jack Attack with a stationary beam out above my stand over my setup.
SkyPup
New member
Here is the Olight M-20 Crimson from 250 yards away last night when I shined some hogs with it from the Game Cam's Infrared Camera:
Here is the Olight M3-X with Green Filter from 250 yards away from the Game Cam's Infrared Camera:
I shined these two lights on them off and on for over 30 minutes with zero response from any of the hogs....
Hogs will die this weekend when I have some spare time to dress them out and grind some sausage....
Here is the Olight M3-X with Green Filter from 250 yards away from the Game Cam's Infrared Camera:
I shined these two lights on them off and on for over 30 minutes with zero response from any of the hogs....
Hogs will die this weekend when I have some spare time to dress them out and grind some sausage....
mikebosmans
New member
After asking SkyPup about a couple different high power white lights to be used with filters, I decided on the OLight M3X as he also uses.
It is awesome.
Last night I had a couple deer out in the field behind my house. I shined them with the M3X with a green glass filter, I ranged it today and came up with eyeballs illuminated at 430 yards.
I could positively identify deer at 280 yards through my rifle scope.(positively enough that I could tell a buck had dropped one horn and not the other)
Without the green filter lense I could ID all the deer at 480 yards using the white light and looking at them through my scope.
I could also illuminate a neighbors barn at 760 yards. It was bright enough to tell that it has a silver roof and red stain but not much else. (who cares at that distance, that's just 100 yards shy of half a mile.)
I also have the Crimson M20 to compare it to and there is no contest between the two. I'll keep the Crimson mounted on my rifle for times when the dog is coming in and I don't want to even think about the chance of him bolting because of the brightness of the M3X with green glass. But I have a feeling the M3X is going to too tempting to not use all the time.
Interestingly, the M3x with the OLight Red glass filter does not put out nearly as much light as the Crimson does with it true red led. Hope this goes to show some people that even a 700+lumen light filtered to red can't beat out a true red led at 100 lumens. The green filter on the same white light though will beat the pants off the Crimson.
Mike
It is awesome.
Last night I had a couple deer out in the field behind my house. I shined them with the M3X with a green glass filter, I ranged it today and came up with eyeballs illuminated at 430 yards.
I could positively identify deer at 280 yards through my rifle scope.(positively enough that I could tell a buck had dropped one horn and not the other)
Without the green filter lense I could ID all the deer at 480 yards using the white light and looking at them through my scope.
I could also illuminate a neighbors barn at 760 yards. It was bright enough to tell that it has a silver roof and red stain but not much else. (who cares at that distance, that's just 100 yards shy of half a mile.)
I also have the Crimson M20 to compare it to and there is no contest between the two. I'll keep the Crimson mounted on my rifle for times when the dog is coming in and I don't want to even think about the chance of him bolting because of the brightness of the M3X with green glass. But I have a feeling the M3X is going to too tempting to not use all the time.
Interestingly, the M3x with the OLight Red glass filter does not put out nearly as much light as the Crimson does with it true red led. Hope this goes to show some people that even a 700+lumen light filtered to red can't beat out a true red led at 100 lumens. The green filter on the same white light though will beat the pants off the Crimson.
Mike