BCB,
Well said......I'm sure it's all do-able, I said that and so did you. Several others have as well. Apparently this has been missed somewhere.
The argument, or debate, is "why?".
Not to correct you Tom (just read your post)...the ability of it was never really an issue, and neither I, nor BCB disputed it.
Ole........
Unless you personally have pressure test facilities at your leisure, then "published manuals" are all you have to go by, or I'd go so far as to say the "wisest choice" regarding safe reloading. That is unless you decide to disregard any "safe standards" of handloading, then by all means "reap what you sow".
P.O. Ackley liked to push the envelope too. I'm sure he's sent many a gun to the scrap heap.
My comment about McPherson is based on "fundamental" trajectory and ballistic tables..."who am I to judge"....just an average guy really, but as far as credentials, if you need some...
I've instructed firearms and ballistic's college courses for two local basic police academy's for the past 16-17yrs as a Police Firearms Instructor/Armorer until retirement in 2001. I was also the supervising officer for the sniper/observer teams for our dept. as well as several others. I was certified by the FBI through their sniper/observer academy at Niagara Falls AFB in 1997-98. A major portion of that course was the study of ballistic principles and trajectory, courtesy of Federal Ammunitions technicians teams.
I'm self taught since the age of 12, and only attended the basic police course when I first started. Apparently the "powers that be" didn't need any convincing. I obtained the certifications "as needed" to be legally positioned, as well as several armorer's courses over the years for Glock, Colt & Smith & Wesson.
"Blowing your own horn" sucks, and I hate "know it all's" as well as the next guy...but, you asked.
Do I feel I know more than the next guy ? Definitely not...but I, as you, speak my piece when I feel the need. Lively debates are good for the soul, but I don't come here to insult anyone's intelligence, nor belittle them....poking a little fun is fine, and I can take as well as give (like BCB).
I came here to offer help, as well as learn, please remember that.
chuck
For every advantage obtained, such as the extra velocity gained from the use of lighter bullets, there's a price to be paid. Pro and con.
The price paid from those lighter bullets, due to their lighter weight that got you that speed advantage in the first place, is a quicker loss of speed and energy downrange.
It's lighter weight is "both" a pro, and a con.
I gathered Nosler info to "once more" offer as some type of basis on what I said. If you choose to ignore it as "bunk", that's fine.
It's comparing the 40 & 55gr. BT's to each other using an "average" 400fps velocity displacement between the two bullet weights. Most manuals show a 300-400fps. velocity difference, but I decided to err on the side of arguement. These numbers are off of "PointBlank" software using Nosler's bullet data.
-40gr BT @ 3800fps./200yd zero/.221 BC
400yds - 2128fps./402fpe. -15.80" drop WD(10mph) 19.08"
-55gr BT @ 3400fps./200yd zero/.267 BC
400yds - 2084fps./530fpe. -18.15" drop WD(10mph) 17.46"
The only thing gained by the lighter bullet at the 400yd range was a flatter trajectory of 2.35", but at a loss of 128fpe., or 24%. Another downside is that as your 40gr. bullet sheds velocity at a faster proportional rate due to it's lighter weight, it now becomes far more susceptible to windrift.
The tradeoff is yours to judge, but in my book that's a considerable amount. The best middle ground would be a 45 or 50gr bullet I guess, but as the proponents of the 40gr.'s choose it for it's speed, I choose mine for downrange energy with less windrift.
Although noticable, the 2" difference in height at 400yds, also comes with a loss of windrift of 1.6", as well as the previously mentioned loss of energy.
Tom....
Regarding barrel length and loss of velocity..the average estimate per inch of barrel length is 24fps per inch. If you know what you're getting with a given length, and either subtract, or add those numbers, you'll get a very close estimate.
I've tried it with my chronograph and it works pretty close. I'd say you'll be within 50fps either way.
Not out to play the "flame game" with any of you guys..we all believe what we believe....if your results make you happy..stay put.
Take care,
Bob