so long as one 1/4 moa click moves POI 1/4" in the desired direction @ 100 yds.
Fixed it for ya HM.
Here is my opinion, and take it for what its worth....and that isn't much.
There are lots of different types of shooters. Each shooter has different equipment applied to it. While in some cases equipment spills over for different applications. For instance, I had a 223 built last year. I mainly use it for plinking, but I take it coyote hunting as well as it is set up as my night rig. It has a NF NXS 5.5x22 on with badger rings, RVC 21.5" barrel, and a suppressor, in a McCrees chasis. It is Less than light, ill put it that way. However I am confident with is, as I shoot it quite a bit.
I have a DPMS 16" upper that I had a redfield 4x12 on for the longest time I also killed coyotes with. Killed them just fine, and it was lighter, shorter, and more maneuverable. I have never killed or even shot at a coyote in Ohio over 75yds. (I don't get many shots at coyotes, so that doesn't mean much) I loved that redfield 4x12 for numerous reasons. Simplicity was the main reason. Put the cross hairs on what you want dead, pull the trigger, and things fall down....PERFECT. Glass always did what I needed it too, and it held zero. Now, with that said, this was years ago before I knew anything about LR shooting, and the equipment that goes with it. I have no problem taking my NXS out and hunting with it. Using that scope and its adjustments are second nature to me now.
Coyote hunting does not have to get overly complicated when it comes to gun/scope setups IMO. Id be more than willing to be there has been a pile of coyotes killed over the years with the various 22 cal rifles, and a 3x9 scope. Either that is what people have, or what they feel confident with. Honestly if it works for you....then it works. That doesn't mean that one thing works better than another. Some people say the 17 cals don't killed coyotes. If I had to guess, there are more than a couple of people on here that would have to argue with that statement.
When it comes to glass though, obviously it can be twisted any direction you want to take it. I personally feel that as long as it is decent glass that holds zero every time you pull trigger, then it works. A good old Nikon prostaff or redfield works just fine IMO. If that's what you have, its better than nothing. When I purchased my Nikon buck master some years ago, I about died spending $275 on it. I thought that was the nicest most expensive scope id ever be able to afford. It still holds zero, and has killed plenty of critters since then. Noowwwww.....my mentality has changed a little bit more. I have gotten older, and have seen some of the top tier stuff out there and it has messed with my head. Once you look through a bender, Steiner, premier, march, NF, ect....it ruins you, and I mean RUINS you. It is easy to see what the extra money gets you.
A member on here was gracious enough to invite me shooting about 3 years ago long range. He had an incredible rifle topped with a Bender. He didn't let me mess around at the short range, we went straight to the 1000 yd bench. 5 minutes later I was ruined. The sickness bit me, it was over. The funny thing was, he told me...."You know, over the years I kept buying different scopes to find one with the best glass. Things didn't seem clear enough for me. That's why I got a bender. Then I had my cataracts fixed....and wow is a bender clear" HAHA
I see a lot of guys with overly expensive equipment shooting each month, that still don't shoot as well as other guys/girls shooting equipment half the price. It all boils down to practice, and confidence level. If you have a $2,500 scope, and cant hit a coyote at 100 yds off sticks, its not better than someone with $250 scope that can drop a coyote in its tracks. while a quality scope is important, the person running it inevitably is the most important thing. If you have the coin to have nice things....why not!