What is causing my guns to rust?

The matte black finish on the Remingtons seems to WANT to rust.I have noticed it on other matte finish Remingtons belonging to some of my friends. I have to keep a close eye on my sons gun. it's the only one we have with that finish. Breakfree CLP seems to do the best job of preventing rust on it without resorting to more drastic measures. I haven't had problems on the inside of the gun just on the outside where the matte black finish is. Especially, where your hands touch the metal.
As to the bores on the others I imagine you didn't oil (Breakfree CLP) them thoroughly. You don't need a heavy coat of oil just a complete coat.
Don't use WD-40. It doesn't seem to "last" on stored guns.
 
For the outside of you guns I would suggest getting a Hoppes silicone rag. Anytime after handling one of my guns I give the entire gun a wipedown and it works great at keeping the rust away. Not only does it clean off any greese, fingerprints, or whatever else that has came in contact with the barrel but it also leaves a thin layer of silicone on the finish protecting it. As for the bore. I usually send a couple patches down the barrel every six months or so (more frequently if fired) with some remington gun oil and havent noticed any rust probelms yet.
 
Some info you need. It takes 100% humidity to form rust. The water is
condensing out of the air and onto your guns. Humidity numbers in the
air matter but not as much as dew points. It only takes a degree or two of
higher temps in your gun cabinet/safe to keep things dry. Put a golden rod
in there, it's what they are for and they work. I never clean my gun for preservation purposes, and I never oil the bores except the black powder shooters, hardly
ever wipe them down and some are 100+ years old. I lived on the ocean for
a good part of my life as well.
 
I have some kind of fuzzy flannely little cloth that came with this cleaning kit, is this the silicon cloth? Ive used it to wipe my guns and when I do it removes all fingerprints and almost looks like it adds a layer of something to the metal and stock. Makes it look shiny and perty like

I ordered some Silica Gel packet things If they dont work im going to check out one of these golden rods. Might have to try some of those RV silica gel things as well but its winter now so the roads are nasty and I wont be making it to town untill maybe just before Christmas or just after if im lucky
 
i keep mine in a hidden compartment and haven't used one or two of them for 20yrs.and they look perfect.i keep a golden rod and plenty of drying agent with them plus i put a coat of kroil on them.the drying agent can be re activated in the oven.the golden rod is like the ones u put in a gun safe they give off heat t help dry the air.
 
Any chlorine in the area? Swimming pool? Aerobic septic system?

Chlorine tablets in my shop (in a sealed container) played havoc on my shovels, rakes, etc.
I had to get them things outside and far away.
 
A small light bulb will do the same job as the goldenrod in reducing humidity inside a cabinet.

Regards,
hm
 
How hard is Duracoating? Would it help make the Remmy a bit more rust resistant on the otuside? I know it wont cure rust but just to help a bit?

Oh I had another question. Say for somereason I wasnt able to fully clean and oil my gun (on vacation and forgot cleaning supplies or something) Could i put some CLP on a bore snake and pull it through and get enough of a coating to get me by?
 
wet patch would be a better idea, but if that's all you could possibly use then sure. Just keep a close eye on it. You can get by with doing very little with your guns as long as you keep a really close eye on them. Oil is your friend as I'm sure you're learning. I know gun safes aren't cheap but you do get what you pay for with them. I only have a pistol and rifle right now so I don't have a safe. I'm also saving up for a good small champion or liberty. Sentry also has an attractive corner safe but I want something I can bolt in really well. You may also be able to get by with some lining in your gun safe to soak up some of the moisture. Or through a good synthetis chamois. Most swim supply and auto stores carry them. Everything will eventually return to its original state. You're just trying to buy time.
 
Gunslick Foaming Bore cleaner is water based so make sure the bore is super dry before oiling it. The oil will trap moisture underneath it and rust. When I used to clean my muzzle loader with hot soapy water, I dried it an used WD40 to get rid of all moisture, then oiled it.

Also use a gun oil made for corrosion resistence, not Mobil 1 or 10w-30 or whatever. I like a lot of CLP everywhere.
 
Nobbie
I work in the cathodic protection buisness
and have certification in the above.
a couple of quick questions
Do you have a water softner installed ?
are you seeing any corrosion on the gun cabinet ?
and last ? is any metal portion of the guns touching the cabinet, or each other ?
A little info for all about corrosion:

To understand cathodic protection one must first understand the corrosion mechanism. For corrosion to occur, three conditions must be present.
1. Two dissimilar metals
2. An electrolyte (water with any type of salt or salts dissolved in it
3. A metal (conducting) path between the dissimilar metals

Hope this will help
 
Originally Posted By: bigwheeler Breeze , that is all true for corrosion, this is just plain ol' rust we're talking
about.
They are the same thing, the industry calls it corrosion so we can charge more .
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: BreezeNobbie
I work in the cathodic protection buisness
and have certification in the above.
a couple of quick questions
Do you have a water softner installed ?
are you seeing any corrosion on the gun cabinet ?
and last ? is any metal portion of the guns touching the cabinet, or each other ?
A little info for all about corrosion:

To understand cathodic protection one must first understand the corrosion mechanism. For corrosion to occur, three conditions must be present.
1. Two dissimilar metals
2. An electrolyte (water with any type of salt or salts dissolved in it
3. A metal (conducting) path between the dissimilar metals

Hope this will help

Yup we have a water softner but our water/salt ratio is fairly low becuase we already have pretty soft water. No corrosion on cabinet. No the guns are touching the foam liner of the cabinet and the plastic things that hold each gun.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: the noobieOriginally Posted By: BreezeNobbie
I work in the cathodic protection buisness
and have certification in the above.
a couple of quick questions
Do you have a water softner installed ?
are you seeing any corrosion on the gun cabinet ?
and last ? is any metal portion of the guns touching the cabinet, or each other ?
A little info for all about corrosion:

To understand cathodic protection one must first understand the corrosion mechanism. For corrosion to occur, three conditions must be present.
1. Two dissimilar metals
2. An electrolyte (water with any type of salt or salts dissolved in it
3. A metal (conducting) path between the dissimilar metals

Hope this will help

Yup we have a water softner but our water/salt ratio is fairly low becuase we already have pretty soft water. No corrosion on cabinet. No the guns are touching the foam liner of the cabinet and the plastic things that hold each gun.
Moisture from the shower could be the problem,even in small amounts salt mixed with water and oxygen,then add dissimular metals in a given location nearby could lead to the corrosion your seeing
 
Breeze,

In your industry you know that air molecules are part water? And that metal rusts when exposed to such?

I think your WAY over analyzing simple oxidation.
 
Nope, breeze is speaking of electrolysis. It's one type of corrosion. Oxidation is another and does not require dissimilar metals nor a conductive path. It is the one metal that breaks apart itself to go back to its raw form. Iron starts red and ends red. Copper is a bluish greenish. Aluminum is white. Oxidation will happen to every metal that has been improved. Unless you're talking about the carbon mixed with steel or alloys counting as dissimilar metals (i.e. brass) then your terms only include the electrolysis type.
 
Noobie
Another thing I forgot to mention,if you are storing any ammo in the safe,remove it,Brass & lead are more noble in the corrsion chart than the steel in a firearm and even if nothing is touching ,the air ,moisture combined with salt,can conduct .thus causing the firearms to be the sacrificial metal.(corrode)
I would post the chart but it would take up alot of space.do a internet search on cathodic protection /sacrificial metal chart.
hope this helps
 
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