loc tite

Originally Posted By: skinneyI use Blue loctite on all my bases with about 15-20inch/lbs torque.

me too.

I was always told "red" loctite is forever, and to use blue if I ever thought I might remove the screw.
 
Technically green cylindrical bond is forever. Red is more than the regular guy can deal with. Blue its tolerable but annoying and anything else its just air. Above and beyond all rust will bind up screws and nuts the best.
I use torque screw driver and a light spray of CRC. Correctly torqued scope rings and mounts will never come loose.
 
Originally Posted By: skb2706 Correctly torqued scope rings and mounts will never come loose.

Agreed. I've never used any type of thread locker and have never had anything come loose.
 
Originally Posted By: doggin coyotesOriginally Posted By: skb2706 Correctly torqued scope rings and mounts will never come loose.

Agreed. I've never used any type of thread locker and have never had anything come loose.

Same same...
 
This has nothing to do with the base or the ring mounts the rifle is an M(one)A the problem i am having this is a huge mount it attaches on the opposite side of ejection with one screw that mount to the side of the rifle i have no problem with this screw it holds good the mount is sort of free floating not attached to the rifle there are two screws to the left of the scope that if you screw the front one down it will raise the front of the scope (including the mount) if you screw the back one down it will raise the back of the scope (including the mount)picture like a teeter totter it is these two screws that work loose while sighting in which makes it react like a teeter totter the rifle is a springfield i hope this makes it a little clearer..............trapperdoc
 
Originally Posted By: trapperdocThis has nothing to do with the base or the ring mounts the rifle is an M(one)A the problem i am having this is a huge mount it attaches on the opposite side of ejection with one screw that mount to the side of the rifle i have no problem with this screw it holds good the mount is sort of free floating not attached to the rifle there are two screws to the left of the scope that if you screw the front one down it will raise the front of the scope (including the mount) if you screw the back one down it will raise the back of the scope (including the mount)picture like a teeter totter it is these two screws that work loose while sighting in which makes it react like a teeter totter the rifle is a springfield i hope this makes it a little clearer..............trapperdoc

OK...

Then use purple stuff. It is the softest.
 
One more question if i put this in a tipton gun vise and level the barrel then use the adjustments on these screws to level the scope then is this where i want to lock these screws in also these are recessed screws do i just put the loc tite on the threads? right now i want to get it level take one screw out loc tite it let it set then do the same to the other am i wrong anywhere in this thinking.....thanks for the replies.........trapperdoc
 


Purple is for air hoses. It stays wet and collects dirt.

Blue is for a little extra hold for screws.

Red is for HD riders, it hold them together.
 
+1 red is for HD's. You can also use it to hold your fillings in while you are riding it.
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I have always used Blue LT and will always continue to do so. Well..unless they come up with a better product.

Anything that screws in...can screw out. I deal a lot with hard use guns and LE. Can't take the chance it will unscrew.

A LOT of guys think a torqued castle nut will NEVER loosen. They are wrong.

Same with bases and rings. Especially if you add the hard kickers and lots of ammo. Try a .338 Lapua with no LT on anything that has threads.

For your 100 rounds a year .223 or .204....you probably will get by with not Loc Tite'ing screws.
 
Originally Posted By: willy1947
Purple is for air hoses It stays wet and collects dirt.

Horse puckey !!

I've used in on my bow sights many times. It's cures and it works.

Per Midway ....
"For years, gunsmiths have turned to Loctite for securing screws and other threaded parts on their projects. Each formula has unique features that make it perfect for various applications around the shop. Purple Threadlocker (222) is for use on set screws, calibration screws, meters and gauges. This non-wicking formula is recommended for fasteners from #2 through 1/4" and cures in 10 minutes with full strength in 24 hours. This threadlocker is low strength and requires only handtools to remove once applied. For more technical information please view the Purple Threadlocker (222) Technical Data Sheet."

BTW ,Say hi to sully2 for me !
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I've alway ever put a tiny dot of Gun Tite on the threads, if only to coddle my own insecurities
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A good "IN/lbs" torque wrench used to spec. is the important part...
 
Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeOriginally Posted By: willy1947
Purple is for air hoses It stays wet and collects dirt.

Horse puckey !!


+1. That's what I use and it definitely cures.
 
Originally Posted By: willy1947

Loctite will only harden in the absence of air.

How much air is there in a screw hole with loctite and a screw in it ?
 
Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeOriginally Posted By: willy1947

Loctite will only harden in the absence of air.

How much air is there in a screw hole with loctite and a screw in it ?

Oh he11. Let's roll right into,

"how much wood could a woodchuck chuck, if...............?
 
Originally Posted By: doggin coyotesOriginally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeOriginally Posted By: willy1947

Loctite will only harden in the absence of air.

How much air is there in a screw hole with loctite and a screw in it ?

Oh he11. Let's roll right into,

"how much wood could a woodchuck chuck, if...............?

Originally Posted By: doggin coyotesOriginally Posted By: Tim Neitzke
BTW ,Say hi to sully2 for me !
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Give my regards to Bob.17 while you're at it.

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