At Home Trigger Job vs. New Trigger

Originally Posted By: TheBig1I can't go with a set screw. I took my trigger assembly out and found that my lower isn't tapped.



nothing a 1/4x28 tap wont solve. its threaded most of the way thru, all you need to do is finish the process. couple drops of cutting oil and make sure you dont cross thread the tap when you start it in the existing threads and life is good.

many lowers arent tapped all the way thru, no big deal. its just aluminium




 
Plant, I don't have a tap so I won't play with that right now. What I will do though is bob the HAMMER, change the springs, and polish the sears without taking any material off of them.

I just found a good YouTube video that did all three and it was a good video. Of course, I do wish that I had the tap to do it for the set screw. I also wish that I could get my hands on the springs and set screw locally so that I could have a nice little project for tonight or tomorrow morning but it's not working out that way.
 
i defer to google, but from pretty much everything i can find its 1/4x28.


there is one article out there that states 1/4x20 (the junk yard geinus trigger job one) but since thats the anomaly i'll disregard that one data point.


not related to trigger mods, but relevant to our discussion

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2015/08/28/anderson-ar-15-lowers-no-longer-mil-spec/

as you can see in that article, he clearly shows a pic of a 1/4x28 tap in the pistol grip screw hole.

B7r6ww0-660x495.jpg



hth
 
Chad,

You are getting some great advice here and I like your attitude and approach to it. As for the effect of springs, sure, go ahead and change the springs. That's not going to create an unsafe condition going to different/better springs.

I understand about the cost of upgrading. Standard trigger parts are pretty cheap, so if you want to BOB the hammer, go for it. Just take off small amounts. You can always take off more. If you go too light, then you may have failure to fire due to light primer strikes. You may experience the same problem with lighter springs. That is a common problem with surplus ammo. It tends to have hard primers, hence the need for a heavy hammer strike, heavier springs thus a heavier trigger pull.
 
Thank you Snow, I appreciate that. I'm not afraid to do a little work to save some money but I prefer to do things the right and safe way.
 
Originally Posted By: Plant.One..i can find its 1/4x28...

Any hints on reaming aluminum ??

I seem to break off reamer/taps when making threads in aluminum.(they were smaller #6 & #8)
 
Originally Posted By: Bob_AtlOriginally Posted By: Plant.One..i can find its 1/4x28...

Any hints on reaming aluminum ??

I seem to break off reamer/taps when making threads in aluminum.(they were smaller #6 & #8)

This threading takes very little effort as the hole is already drilled through. It just isn't all the way tapped. Plus, the tap rides the threads already there and it is well supported. But a little CLP is a good idea and I've only hand threaded them, no machine use.
 
Originally Posted By: pahntr760Originally Posted By: Bob_AtlOriginally Posted By: Plant.One..i can find its 1/4x28...

Any hints on reaming aluminum ??

I seem to break off reamer/taps when making threads in aluminum.(they were smaller #6 & #8)

This threading takes very little effort as the hole is already drilled through. It just isn't all the way tapped. Plus, the tap rides the threads already there and it is well supported. But a little CLP is a good idea and I've only hand threaded them, no machine use.

Mine isn't drilled all of the way through. How do I drill it without screwing up the existing threads?
 
if your lower isnt drilled thru, it might be time to abandon the grip screw idea unless you've got some machining skills, or know someone who does.

as pahntr said, "very carefully" is the right answer, but you are now offically putting your lower at risk if you goof up. i'm not suggesting that its not possible, but if you're living on a tight budget, replacing a $60-$70 lower to do a $15 trigger job.... well yea.


at this point i'd probably just recommend to bob the hammer, and lighten up the trigger spring and take what you can get from that.

Originally Posted By: Bob_AtlOriginally Posted By: Plant.One..i can find its 1/4x28...

Any hints on reaming aluminum ??

I seem to break off reamer/taps when making threads in aluminum.(they were smaller #6 & #8)

sorry man, not my gig. might get some good machining tips from AvE over on youtube though, he's good at breaking taps off in stuff

among other machine shop hokey pokey, like peeling 'taters with your lathe
grin.gif


fair warning - its AvE so it probably contains some NSFW language
grin.gif


 
If your lower isn't drilled all the way through, another option is to D&T a set screw into the tail of the trigger. Or build up a pad of JB weld under the tail of the trigger. Lots of options.
 
Start with the cheapest solution first. When money is tight, it's better to not spend it on something until you know you need it. Your AR will shoot reliably with a standard AR trigger. Clean and lube the trigger you got and shot the rifle. Weaker springs and bobbing the hammer can lead to weak ignition. Can you afford the ammo and parts you'll need to ensure 100% function? Do you know for a fact these modifications will let you shoot better?

For now, just clean and lube your trigger and go shoot the rifle. Actually shooting your rifle the way it is now is the best way to tell if you even need to modify or change your trigger.

I will say it again- The set screw modification isn't safe for an AR.

Ammo Before Accessories. Shoot Before Modifying. It'll save you money and heartache. You'll thank me later
 
Originally Posted By: MistWolfStart with the cheapest solution first. When money is tight, it's better to not spend it on something until you know you need it. Your AR will shoot reliably with a standard AR trigger. Clean and lube the trigger you got and shot the rifle. Weaker springs and bobbing the hammer can lead to weak ignition. Can you afford the ammo and parts you'll need to ensure 100% function? Do you know for a fact these modifications will let you shoot better?

For now, just clean and lube your trigger and go shoot the rifle. Actually shooting your rifle the way it is now is the best way to tell if you even need to modify or change your trigger.

I will say it again- The set screw modification isn't safe for an AR.

Ammo Before Accessories. Shoot Before Modifying. It'll save you money and heartache. You'll thank me later

genearlly speaking you're right on the mark. trigger time before accessories and modification. you cant mod your way to accuracy if your marksmanship fundamentals are flawed.

when a shooter outgrows a factory rifle's limitations and it comes to modding to improve a stock firearm, the trigger is often the best first place to put that money - right along with the barrel and optic. thats the accuracy tri-fecta when it comes to ar15's - good trigger, good free floated barrel assembly and a good optic. [edit] this is assuming that quality ammo is being used [/edit]


the part that i disagree with is that in this instance, the set screw mod is only unsafe if - like many performance modifications (not specifically firearm related) - it is done INCORRECTLY and with a full disregard for the safety checks involved in the installation/modification process. done correctly this is one of the safest factory trigger mods that one can do to an ar15.

there are lots of instructions out there that show you how to do this mod both safely and with long term reliability in mind - including right on joebobs website. if someone follows proper safety protocols and does safety checks when doing this mod their trigger can be both safe and reliable at the end of the day.

using a set screw to control the amount of travel on the trigger is not something new in the AR world. mods like this have been around for DECADES now.


ANY trigger with a short travel and a light pull isnt going to take rough handling like a mil spec trigger assembly will. the mil spec standard is designed for reliability in conditions that most of us who are not in a theater of war will never encounter. its for guns that are going to get thrown around, used with gloves in play, in high stress situations, etc etc etc. its the same reason personal defense pistols that have no manual safety and are double action only have such a long heavy trigger pull. the long heavy trigger pull helps prevent discharge of the firearm outside of when we actually want the gun to go boom.

for those of using our firearms for sporting applications, trigger modifications - either through installation of a part like these set screws, or a full drop in aftermarket trigger assembly like a timney, or even tuning a factory adjustable trigger where applicable - can and do still provide safe operation and handling under most circumstances when installed and adjusted correctly.



regarding bobbing the hammer - a basic mil-spec hammer is like $20. you can probably find one used for even less. if in fact he does find that his spring choices & hammer mod cause issues with nato ammo, he can go back to factory, mil spec configuration for less than most of us spend at a stop at the gas pump. his old springs will still be around, so all that needs to be done to reverse the changes is replace the hammer and reinstall the factory springs.
 
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Ok seriously, I am simple. I just took my lower apart to grease the hammer and realized that my lower IS drilled and tapped the whole way through. I sincerely apologize for being so slow guys.
 
You can always look at Stag Arms. They have a two stage trigger available for 109$. Right now they have 20% off til the end of the month. I have one on my Varminter 6L and bought another. I like it a lot.
 
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