I ask you two simple questions, and you copy an instruction sheet??
You gotta be kidding.
OK - here are the questions AGAIN!!
"Now, explain to all of us dummies how that gauge would solve the OP's problem, and how someone will get hurt by setting up a FL die, exactly they way manufacturers suggest."
Originally Posted By: captninsanoCat,
Since i already know this will be an exercise in futility when it comes to you, there are a lot of other people that may not know how they work. While they are pretty self explanatory, i will simply copy and paste the instructions, which outline how to set a case to sami specs as well as setting up your dies.
IRECTIONS
To set cases to SAMMI specifications:
1. Wipe all grease from inside of gage and from gaging surfaces. Look into the gage to see that it is free of grease or foreign matter.
2. Hold the gage in a horizontal position and insert a resized case about half way into the gage. With the forefinger push the case quickly into the
gage so that it stops with a "plunk."
3. Now hold the gage vertically and check position of the case head in relation to the gaging surfaces. The head should not be below the lower step nor above the upper step. Ideal length for a properly headspaced rifle should be half way between or slightly closer to the upper step. A narrow, straight instrument, like a steel scale, will be of assistance in checking cone-to-head length.
4. Place the edge of the scale squarely on the case head and over the lower step. If there is clearance between edge of scale and lower step you are assured that the cone-to-head length is above the minimum required. With the edge of the scale resting on the upper steps, if there is clear- ance between scale and case head the cone-to-head length is below the maximum limit allowed.
Setting up full length-dies of the common threaded variety:
Sam Wilson’s experience with a competitor in a match in Spokane, WA several years ago pretty much inspired the design and manufacture of this gage. This competitor had 18 out of 22 cases break off in the chamber of his rifle in one match, due to having pushed the shoulder back too far in his press. With this gage that error in adjusting the die in his press could have been spotted at once and a lot of trouble prevented later.
1. Resized case should be checked in the gage.
2. If the headspace is over maximum, screw the die a little farther into the press, so the case will be pushed in farther, and resize again. Continue this until the case shoulder has been pushed back far enough to allow the head to drop below the upper step of the gage. If it pushes the shoulder back so far that the case head registers below the lower step, back up the die to correct it on the next case.
Setting up full length resizing based off fired cases LE Wilson Preferred Method:
This procedure is advised because of a tendency we have noted the last twenty years of the firearms manufacturers to use larger chamber reamers and to chamber more deeply even for rimless cartridges. We have had fired cases from factory rifles which project well above the maximum step.
1. Check your cases in as-fired condition.
2. If the head projects above the upper step, adjust your die as above to where the resized case drops even with the upper step or a little below. The idea is still to push the shoulder back as little as possible to allow easy chambering. The resized case needs only to drop .002 to .003 be- low the fired case.
Measuring case length:
Trimming back to normal length with a WILSON CARTRIDGE CASE TRIMMER will prevent any tendency of the cases to bottom in the chamber, or in extreme examples, to be forced partly in the throat or ball seat, causing pressure variations and consequent inaccuracy. It is better to have them under minimum than over maximum.
1. After cases have been resized to the proper headspace, their overall length can be checked. With the case Inserted, stand the gage on a flat surface, head end down.
2. The mouth of the case now should be between the upper and lower steps for proper overall length.
CAUTION: Don't hold gage in hands to check overall length. Head of case and end of gage must rest on same surface to indicate length correctly. If cases check above upper step they need trimming and should be trimmed so that they register flush with the lower step. You will find that they will stretch in firing and resizing and you can watch their growth with this gage. When they get close to or reach the upper step, trim them back.
If you set you die to deep you could end up with a round being chambered to shallow. Ie, it is held into the chamber by the extractor, not the shoulder. When the round is fired the case is not sealed at the shoulder allowing gases to bypass and blow back, can experience head separation, split cases, damage to the bolt and the chamber.
So while you may say they are worthless, in your opinion, i have seen many cases just like this one where are more than worth the 20 bucks they cost. Since a shoulder head space measurement is hard to take by hand, these little gauges help to make sure your resized cases are within spec and help to trouble shoot other issues. Such as sticky bolt. The op only knows the sized case now chambers but now it sticks. Is the shoulder to deep or to shallow? Or is there is a completely different problem? If he had a headspace gauge he would be able find out quickly if his round is within sami specs and give him a reference point to troubleshoot from... Trial and error with a loaded round is not safe.
None of your "copy and paste" instructions apply to the poster's problem.
His cases are IN SAAMI specifications.
There is sooo much room inside of SAAMI specs, that this problem exists, but his cases will drop "Plunk" in that gauge, and he will still have no answer to the problem.
What is it that you don't understand about, "He does NOT have a headspace problem!!"
He has a case length problem which is INSIDE of the tolerance of SAAMI spec, caused by not fully using the die. NOTHING about the drop in die will show him what the problem is, or how to solve it.
