Who still loads in the "Dark Ages" as far as equipment?

Me, I have newish and old school stuff. Have a RC just like the one my mentor hated for my single stage, but started on a Lee hand press. I also have a 90s vintage Ammomaster progressive I bought from someone on here more than 10 years ago now. Works fantastic and I try to do as much on it as practical. My electronic scale is 20 years old now probably, it's the RCBS scale and dispenser that Pact made for them back in the day where they're two separate pieces. Slow but works well. Sometimes I just use a balance beam scale and throw charges and trickle for the coarse powders, it's actually faster than you think but it labor intensive compared to the electronic set-up. For most of my ammo, throwing is plenty precise enough, especially for ball powders it's a no-brainer and even small sticks like Benchmark throw on my progressive within a tenth of a grain. Trimming is a Trim-pro which I refined into a fast trimming beast, I can't really describe it but I'm pretty proud of my idea there, will have to post a pic. A Hornady case prep trio sits right behind it so it's trim, chamfer and de-burr and clean primer pocket within seconds.

My absolute biggest pita is still trimming though, when running progressive. To get absolute uniformity you have to resize first then trim, which wrecks the whole process speed wise. It's usually not a problem as I resize just enough that cases don't stretch much and stay pretty uniform in a lot, but with some things like 30-30 which I crimp, I want them all very close to exact so they get touch-up trimmed every time.
204AR, I had special dies made for fired brass for my Gracey Trimmer. If any trimming is needed, I do it first.
 
To get absolute uniformity you have to resize first then trim, which wrecks the whole process speed wise. It's usually not a problem as I resize just enough that cases don't stretch much and stay pretty uniform in a lot, but with some things like 30-30 which I crimp, I want them all very close to exact so they get touch-up trimmed every time.
When I shot HP competition, I used to neck turn my brass and trim on a Forster case trimmer in one step. I changed out the screw which held the hand crank, replacing it with a hex headed machine screw and used my cordless drill w/socket to drive it. Since I no longer neck turn, sold the Forster and started using the Lee hand trimmer, which requires primer removal.

When loading w/the Dillon progressive, I hand deprime, trim and chamfer after each firing. Russ, I have shortened the stem on several different shell holders until an unsized case, when trimmed w/altered mandrel results in correct case length when sized. Just trim the fired case w/shortened mandrel, size and check case length, repeat as necessary to achieve proper length. While the mandrel fits unfired case neck a bit looser than designed I haven't detected any accuracy issues with this method.
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I guess I'm just stubborn, or maybe a little senile, but I'm still loading with the minimum of equipment and most of it is old. Anyone else in that boat?

My Stuff:

RCBS Rock Chucker
505 scale
Redding powder trickler
Lee perfect powder measure
Small electronic scale
Other assorted hand tools to chamfer, trim, etc

Yep, it's slow. But it's also precise and relaxing. I've thought about buying another press, but not sure I need it for the volume of shooting that I do even though I'm loading for 4 rifles and 1 pistol.
Sounds like you have all you need.
 
When I shot HP competition, I used to neck turn my brass and trim on a Forster case trimmer in one step. I changed out the screw which held the hand crank, replacing it with a hex headed machine screw and used my cordless drill w/socket to drive it. Since I no longer neck turn, sold the Forster and started using the Lee hand trimmer, which requires primer removal.

When loading w/the Dillon progressive, I hand deprime, trim and chamfer after each firing. Russ, I have shortened the stem on several different shell holders until an unsized case, when trimmed w/altered mandrel results in correct case length when sized. Just trim the fired case w/shortened mandrel, size and check case length, repeat as necessary to achieve proper length. While the mandrel fits unfired case neck a bit looser than designed I haven't detected any accuracy issues with this method.
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When I was shooting High Power, I saw people do a kinds of things. What opened my eyes was a guy that was High Master who bought Win brass, charged it and stuffed a bullet in it. Then he just sold the brass as 1X Fired brass. He did t even run new brass through a neck sizer! If a bullet didn't fit, he just threw it in the 1x fired brass pile. He said all of that was just a waste of his time. And you know how much time we all spent on brass. One guy even had a tool he made, that had a micrometer that measured concentricity of loaded rounds, and it had a lever to apply pressure on the case neck and bullet to straighten it. I just did what I thought woukd result in consistent rounds and the rest was up to me.
 
One guy even had a tool he made, that had a micrometer that measured concentricity of loaded rounds, and it had a lever to apply pressure on the case neck and bullet to straighten it.
Something like this one? I never did straighten those that did not make the cut, however, just sorted them out and used the best for 600 & beyond, where concentricity is most important, and the others @ 200 & 300.

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I even mounted a sight base on the side of mine so it did double duty of checking my sights for repeatability.
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I tried it all, sorting cases by weight, neck turning, primer pocket uniforming, etc. Gave up sorting cases first (I used GI Match brass when I could get it and M2 ball the rest of the time; Match brass is softer.), continued most until I made high master, but, while I continued the drill, somewhere along the line began to think it was more a mental crutch than an actual advantage. IDK, but I do believe that having faith that your gear and ammo is the best possible, let me concentrate on the task at hand just a bit better and shooting is primarily a mental game IMO. Ammo was good enough, left target was practice @ 100 yds. Spotter disc @ 600:
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I started with an RCBS Jr about 1966 and used it till an ex wife sold my stuff while I was out of town. Replaced it with a Rockchucker about 25 yrs ago, Rockchucker still works fine. have several old Herter dies I steal the rings to tighten the dies in the press with. Haven't used them in years as when I got them I already had other dies in the cartridges I have. Did get two new Lee neck sizing dies for a couple 243's 6 or 7 years ago. But most my neck sizing is done with FL dies. My scale is really old, old RCBS 505. My step into modern stuff would be my dial caliper. Originally I had one of the old plastic RCBS slide calipers and it seemed to work. I have this though about pretty much everything If it works for me I don't need a replacement!
 
Something like this one? I never did straighten those that did not make the cut, however, just sorted them out and used the best for 600 & beyond, where concentricity is most important, and the others @ 200 & 300.

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I even mounted a sight base on the side of mine so it did double duty of checking my sights for repeatability.
View attachment 7205

I tried it all, sorting cases by weight, neck turning, primer pocket uniforming, etc. Gave up sorting cases first (I used GI Match brass when I could get it and M2 ball the rest of the time; Match brass is softer.), continued most until I made high master, but, while I continued the drill, somewhere along the line began to think it was more a mental crutch than an actual advantage. IDK, but I do believe that having faith that your gear and ammo is the best possible, let me concentrate on the task at hand just a bit better and shooting is primarily a mental game IMO. Ammo was good enough, left target was practice @ 100 yds. Spotter disc @ 600:
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It looked somewhat different. He was a precision machinist for cardiac hardware. He made his. He also made my first electric case trimmer. This was 30 years ago.
 
Something like this one? I never did straighten those that did not make the cut, however, just sorted them out and used the best for 600 & beyond, where concentricity is most important, and the others @ 200 & 300.

View attachment 7204
I even mounted a sight base on the side of mine so it did double duty of checking my sights for repeatability.
View attachment 7205

I tried it all, sorting cases by weight, neck turning, primer pocket uniforming, etc. Gave up sorting cases first (I used GI Match brass when I could get it and M2 ball the rest of the time; Match brass is softer.), continued most until I made high master, but, while I continued the drill, somewhere along the line began to think it was more a mental crutch than an actual advantage. IDK, but I do believe that having faith that your gear and ammo is the best possible, let me concentrate on the task at hand just a bit better and shooting is primarily a mental game IMO. Ammo was good enough, left target was practice @ 100 yds. Spotter disc @ 600:
View attachment 7206View attachment 7207
I used machine gun brass for everyday stuff, Winchester for the matches. Weighed and sorted brass and bullets. I never saw anyone shooting better scores than me, that was neck turning brass. When I went from the M14 to the AR, I had an immediate score increase. I bounced back.and forth from Expert to Master. Then needed 1 more Master to move up, but quit shooting to develope the 4H shooting sports in my county. Did that for 9 years, and saw my son bring home state championship trophies from Louisiana and Texas. It was worth it.
 
After seeing the below video on YouTube many years ago, I got me a RCBS Case Prep Center and set it up to trim brass. I really like this way of prepping the brass.

This is the only NEW WAY I use for reloading rifle ammo.
 
Still using the Redding scale and Lyman press and 55 powder measurer from 1967 or 68. Trickler from then also. Did acquire a Forster trimmer a few years ago.
 
Cool; like the alteration to the Lee trimmer allowing use on RCBS case prep station. Before they came out w/the RCBS I deprime and set up the Lee trimmer in a cordless drill. Primer pocket uniformer (or blue Dillon pocket swage) is a one time operation, same as the RCBS.

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I find it easier to trim & chamfer after each firing than it is to measure case length and trim only those in need of trimming; it is all accomplished in one smooth operation.
 
Not I Sir, I gave up muskets a long time ago. šŸ˜®

All kidding a side, I still use a Redding Beam scale from the 70's to weigh each powder charge and a single stage press. I use a Lee turret press for my pistol stuff. However, I do use a digital scale for weighing my cast bullets. Instead of using lube, I powder coat my casts.

I thought about a progressive press, but what would I do with the rest of my time?
 
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HM, those little Lee case trimmers are pretty handy. I have several sets. Sure makes trimming cases a bunch easier.
Yes they are! I loaded lots of 30-06 for competition. Shot out 3.5 barrels in my #1 Mod. 70 (over 26,000 rounds), another in a Garand (average life of 7500 rounds ea.) + several others well worn during the twenty some years I participated. The single stage press gave way to two Dillons and my loading procedures changed w/time. Went through a couple of different case trimmers, but found the Lee trimmer is as simple as they come and the most efficient. Easier to trim after every firing than to measure and trim only ones that need it.
My loading sequence is tumble brass, lube cases, size and decap. Next each case is trimmed, chamfered and lube rubbed off all in one step while chucked on the drill, then hand primed. Not taking full advantage of the progressive, but found the time saved by the Lee process almost made up for the extra step on the Dillon. Trimming and de-lubing cases are my least favorite steps in the loading process so the quicker I can do that, the better.
Someone posted a video using an RCBS prep station and he had altered a Lee trimmer to be driven in one station of the RCBS. That was pretty cool, but that setup was not available when I need it. :)
 
I used a Forrester to trim (and neck turn my brass for 600 yds and beyond). I replaced the screw that holds crank to cutter with a hex head then used either a cordless screw driver or drill w/hex socket to drive it.......sure beat the hand crank!
 
I started out with the old Lee reloading kits. The ones you had to knocked the primers out with a punch and mallet. Then progress to an RCBS Jr. I got really fancy and bought a second one. That was years ago. LOL, still use them today. One for sizing and the other for seating. I have a Lyman Gen 6 powder measure now but use to use the Lyman 55 for years. I also have a Lyman Prep station but about all I use it for is trimming cases and cleaning primer pockets. Still use a tumbler/media to clean my brass. I guess I'm a little old fashioned and a little modern.
 
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