Ruger Gen II accuracy update

I don’t shoot much at 300yds. Especially coyotes, lol. Only time 300yd shots are taken “if” they are taken is at stationary targets and I know where my bullet will hit. Here in South Georgia I don’t know if it’s possible to shoot a coyote at 300yds, at least no place I hunt it’s possible. Again, even if your shooting .25” groups at 500yds if that target doesn’t stop then we have the same percentage of hits.
I could understand the argument if a rifle shot the same spot at 25-300yds but it doesn’t. There’s only two distances it will hit dead bullseye and it’s very unlikely every shot will be at those two distances.
 
I could understand the argument if a rifle shot the same spot at 25-300yds but it doesn’t. There’s only two distances it will hit dead bullseye and it’s very unlikely every shot will be at those two distances.

And that, my friend, is why there are dope charts and Christmas tree, Mil dot, and BDC reticles. And why folks should shoot at the range enough to know where you should aim on the reticle for certain yardages. My hunting rifles have dope charts taped to the buttstocks that tell me what my holdovers (and sometimes holdunders) are required to hit at varying distances with simple crosshair reticles (I hate all the clutter in the others). Easy peasy. Not rocket science. ;)

And in cases where longer range targets are not accessible, there are ballistics calculators that can be used to get very close to those numbers. If you can zero a rifle at 50, 100, and 150 yards, you actually can get away without a chronograph by using the calculator and inserting those variables. Not perfect, but better than just a guess.
 
And that, my friend, is why there are dope charts and Christmas tree, Mil dot, and BDC reticles. And why folks should shoot at the range enough to know where you should aim on the reticle for certain yardages. My hunting rifles have dope charts taped to the buttstocks that tell me what my holdovers (and sometimes holdunders) are required to hit at varying distances with simple crosshair reticles (I hate all the clutter in the others). Easy peasy. Not rocket science. ;)

And in cases where longer range targets are not accessible, there are ballistics calculators that can be used to get very close to those numbers. If you can zero a rifle at 50, 100, and 150 yards, you actually can get away without a chronograph by using the calculator and inserting those variables. Not perfect, but better than just a guess.
So when coyote hunting…on a constant moving coyote…you know exactly where to aim on that coyote and hit exactly where you aim every time?

I know where my bullet hits at a certain distance and my margin of error when aiming at a shoulder out to a certain distance.
 
So when coyote hunting…on a constant moving coyote…you know exactly where to aim on that coyote and hit exactly where you aim every time?

LOL ..... NOBODY can claim that they always hit exactly where they aim. And that is not what I said and you know it.

I know where my bullet hits at a certain distance and my margin of error when aiming at a shoulder out to a certain distance.

Then you have it handled. That's all you need to know ...
 
HM, I use to hunt with a guy that used a 30-30 with a scope. I don't know how he even saw through it as it was so fogged over with crud. If he could hit a paper plate at 100yds he was good to go. He also missed a lot of deer too.

As far as accuracy, last week my Sako custom 223 put 10 rounds@100yds that you can cover with a dime. My 7-08, hunting rifle will cut holes at 100yds and consistently hits a 3" steel at 300yds. My 22-250AI shoots 5 shot groups under a half inch at 200yds if I'm on my game that day. I have several rifles and almost all of them shoot way better than MOA. So ya, I'm a little anal how my rifles shoot. If your shooting over an inch at 100yds the groups only get bigger the farther out you shoot. So if a rifle won't shoot, it either gets fixed or sent down the road. If its accurate it takes some of the margin of error out of the equation. This little Ruger will shoot one way or another. If it won't I'll figure out why.

Spurchaser, if you can live with the way your gun shoots consider yourself very lucky. I'm the rifle chairman at my gun club. I spend a few days a week either working or shooting. Long ago, I got tied up with the wrong group of guys that shot very accurate rifles. When they shoot bug holes and you shoot patterns you start to wonder why. Then you start improving your gear and rifles. Then when you start shooting bug hole rifles you keep trying for something a little better and its a rabbit hole you just can't get out of. But it keeps me out of strip clubs and bars. LOL
 
I’m not against shooting cloverleafs. I have guns that you have to physically walk downrange to see the second shot because your spotter says it’s a miss when it’s actually a hit and after 3-4 shots becomes a clover leaf.
My only disagreement is saying this can’t happen from a rifle that doesn’t cost over $1K. I have a brand new Ruger 10/22 with a Leupold scope that will shoot a 5shot group that you can cover with a nickel at 50yds…it’s not a dime rifle unfortunately.
All my “budget” rifles are sighted in with a vice basically. That way if there’s a miss, it’s all the shooters fault, not the rifles.
By vice I mean all that’s needed is the trigger pulled. Not sure what kind of vice it is, it’s mounted on a table and you set the gun in it and use dials on the vice for up/down and even left/right…it’s not mine it’s where we shoot. It takes every bit of human error out of the equation.
 
My only disagreement is saying this can’t happen from a rifle that doesn’t cost over $1K.
When I began shooting center fire rifles 70+ years ago, the moa rifle was the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, the unicorn so to speak. Not so much today; I have more than one <$1000 factory bolt guns (mostly Savage) and a couple of AR's built from parts and PSA uppers that do so on demand, and I consider one that doesn't an interesting challenge. Can I make every one I try sub moa? No, in fact I have a BAR that surpasses the $1000 bar, yet very stubbornly refuses to make that cut, but I still haven't given up on it.;) Unfortunately, that may never happen due to macular degeneration has provided me with double crosshairs in all my scopes, but even so I have it down to 1.25 moa. It's the "chase" that keeps some of us coming back. :cool:
 
Before prices went crazy, a Howa Varmint would shoot bugholes and was no where near $1000. I've had several Savages that would shoot sub 1/2" at 100yds. Several Tikka's as well. I have a T3x Viel in 6.5 PRC that shoots VERY VERY well and it was just a fuzz over $1000 but all brands of rifles are way higher than a few years ago. That being said, I don't agree that a rifle has to cost more than a grand to shoot very well. And....I've seen rifles well over the $1000 price tag that were total dogs.

A guy at my club shoots PRS. His equipment is "best of the best". His stocks are $1500-$2000. Top tier barrels , actions and triggers and usually Schmidt & Bender scopes. I see him once or twice a month at the club. One day he was shooting and my little Savage Edge was actually shooting tighter groups than his custom rig. He was getting 3/4-1" groups and said that was about the best that rifle would do. I think you'd be lucky to build that rifle for anywhere near $6000 and barely shot MOA at 100yds. I would have been very disappointed myself. But shooting man size steel and all you have to do is make it ring I guess that was good enough.
 
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My only disagreement is saying this can’t happen from a rifle that doesn’t cost over $1K. I have a brand new Ruger 10/22 with a Leupold scope that will shoot a 5shot group that you can cover with a nickel at 50yds…it’s not a dime rifle unfortunately.

That's VERY acceptable for a 10/22 in stock dress. Some of the guys over at RF Central would love to have that. I have found that if you have a 22 that is close, sometimes finding the right ammo can make or break the groups. And the el-cheapo ammunition in the bulk boxes aren't going to do you any favors. If you aren't feeding it match grade ammunition already, try a couple of brands and see if it doesn't get even tighter. ;)

As for the <$1000 rifles, I have 2 Tikka's that were well under MOA right out of the box. Neither was over that price.
 
Now y’all gonna make me spend more money shooting now. Whoever started this thread needs banished!!
Just be real careful who you hang out with. All jokes aside, Being at the range alot I see it all. I have a couple of guys that shoot prretty regular. Both have nice rifles, one Savage and one Remington, both heavy barrels, with decent glass but they shoot cheap azz ammo. Cheapest FMJ stuff they can get. As expected, cheap in, cheap out.
 
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As for the cheap ammo part .... not everyone reloads, has the funds to get set up, and don't have the desire to do so. And I have actually heard a few say that factory ammunition is more consistent than anything that comes off the reloading bench. 😲

Bill brings up a great point: I have realized over the years that there are 2 distinct kinds of folks at the range. (1) Those that shoot their rifles when the mood hits them or just before deer/bear/whatever season to "check their zero" and (2) Those that see it as a hobby or a challenge and are there to squeeze the last bit of accuracy out of their rifles that is humanly possible. And the 2nd group are sometimes hunters also. And even after a great range session, they find themselves a few days later wondering what might happen if they changed bullets, powders, or seating depths. And that is the cruel circle that we go around and around with when we are chasing accuracy.

And neither group is wrong. They just have different objectives.

I know for a definite FACT that ... especially as I approach 70 ... my nerves, eyesight, and a few other things are gradually deteriorating. And every year I can see my marksmanship fading because of those things. And because of that, my rifles need to be as good as I can get them. What used to be a relatively routine 100 yard crawl along the ground to get within distance of a pronghorn now ends with me having to take a minute to gather myself before I am confident in my shooting ability.
 
I know for a definite FACT that ... especially as I approach 70 ... my nerves, eyesight, and a few other things are gradually deteriorating. And every year I can see my marksmanship fading because of those things. And because of that, my rifles need to be as good as I can get them. What used to be a relatively routine 100 yard crawl along the ground to get within distance of a pronghorn now ends with me having to take a minute to gather myself before I am confident in my shooting ability.
Just wait, Steve, it gets a lot better with passage of time. 😲
 
I do not reload nor do I currently shoot long range. I am strictly a hunter. However, I do love accurate rifles and think I owe it to the animals that I hunt to be as proficient as I can be with my weapons. Whenever I buy a new rifle I get online (forums and youtube) and research what ammo others are having good success with out of that particular rifle. I will then go out and buy 3-4 of these factory loads and try them in my rifle. Most of the time if multiple people are having good luck with an ammo then my rifle will also. I try to find at least 2-3 different loads that a rifle will shoot. If I can't find a few loads that the rifle likes I will then start looking at my options. Heck, I may go ahead and throw in a Timney just for the fun of it. My shooting method is pretty simple. I shoot from a seated position using a stable chair and table in my yard. (I live on a 400ac farm) I use an old vise that I've had for years. One that the forearm just rests on a little bean bag and the stock is held by a "V". It's basically the same thing as using sandbags. I measure distances with a LRF and measure my groups with a set of calipers. A little more than shooting from the hood of a truck I guess.

I currently own eight rifles that will consistently shoot under an inch at 100 yards. One that flirts with an inch on most days. Then I own three that I want to warp around a tree, but I keep them anyway. One of those three will shoot well under an inch, but will only do it with one type of ammo. The most expensive two of all of these rifles are a Tikka and a pre-Remington collapse 700.

I did buy my 6.5prc because I do want to get into some long range shooting. I am going to top it with an Arken to begin with then go from there.

Some of you "older" guys may find it hard to believe, but it really isn't that hard to walk into a gun store and buy one of today's off the shelf budget rifles and a few boxes of quality ammo then go home and CONSESTINATLY shoot an inch or less.

Want to see something crazy. Look up WhooTeeWho's video with the CZ 600 Alpha in 6.5prc. That rifle right out the box shoots under and inch with almost every factory ammo that he tries.
 
Dead is dead regardless. If I aim for the shoulder and hit 1-2” either way, it’s dead.
Not quite sure where or how y’all hunt, but I hope to get to the level of shots y’all experience. I don’t get too many opportunities where I can “pick a hair” to aim at. I normally get a general vicinity spot and send it…so far it’s worked every time. Then again I’m not shooting fairy dust at them either. If I hit it, it’s going down.
Someone else mentioned it before…it’s figuring out the best time to break that trigger vs having time to pick an exact spot.
I see a kill zone and send it, as long as it's in the zone :)
 
While this post has kinda drifted off course, that's OK as its still interesting about peoples level of accuracy. Hildalgo described it pretty good, there are two basic kinds of shooters/hunters. I fall into the group that believes accuracy is very important and getting the best accuracy I can get is top of the list. Nothing I hate worse than tracking a wounded animal be it deer, coyote, or any living creature. I very seldom if ever take a shot at a running animal. I very seldom take a shot at an animal that I feel is farther than my comfort zone. I guess I'm a "One shot, one kill" hunter. One of our respected members had/has a quote that goes through my head all the time..........After the first shot, the rest is just noise. Helping others find wounded animals has made me a pretty good tracker. You'd be amazed how many times I've helped or how many times I'm called to help someone find their wounded deer. They always say I know I made a good shot only to find a leg blown off or a gut shot. As hunters we owe it to the wildlife to be the very best we can be to make clean humane kills on every thing we hunt. This is just my opinion and rules that I live by. Your ways may be different than mine.
 
Use enough gun and you’ll have a little better recovery rate if a perfect shot isn’t made. I’m not saying you can hit an animal anywhere, but enough gun does help unless you’re a prefect shooter every time that trigger is pulled. Deer, yeah I don’t take shots unless I know I can drop it and it’s stationary. Just can’t seem to get coyotes to sit still long enough for that perfect stationary shot. A larger caliber makes up for that. Even works with hogs as well.
 
Best way to make a coyote stop? Bark at them. I have been doing that for years and believe it or not, unless they are dead fixed on something or spooked, they will stop and look about 75% of the time. I've even stopped them after they have been shot at.
 
I’ve tried giving out a “whoop” a “bark” and even yelling “Hey” and they pay me no attention. I also forget to mute the call or lower the volume so that doesn’t help at all I’m sure, lol. It does make it interesting though! When I see one coming in the call is immediately in my side pocket and I’m both hands on the gun.
I ain’t gonna lie, I get an adrenaline pump when they answer and it comes full force when they’re coming in. Maybe it’ll subside one day…but I really hope it doesn’t!
 
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