Ream Your scope rings!!!!

smokingun

New member
I reccommend to any shooter that they need to purchase a scope ring reamer. Worth every penny. I dont know if you guys know this but only 10% of your scope rings actually hold the scope in place. I reamed the scope rings on all my Rifles and was shocked to how much it actually had to ream out to make the rings pefectly round. After reaming the rings and remounting and centering the scope i only had to move my .17 down 5 clicks at 100 yards. Pretty impressive. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
 
Dumb question...
10% of scope rings hold scope in place...
The rest of the scope rings allow enough movement to eventually let the scope wiggle in time? Giving you loss of accuracy.
 
Gomer - that 10% contacting the scope is what gives 100% of ring marks, binding (warping) of the tube and on heavy calibers can cause the scope to move in the rings.
 
You may not have to lap aluminum rings due to the flexible nature of the product (opinions may vary). I finally bought a lapping bar and have done a few now. I am not sure that I ever had a problem in the past with un-lapped rings but I needed a new hobby. If anything I have cut down on ring marks on my scopes. If they are blue, try Oxphoblue for reblueing. Also mark the rings so after you lap them you put the same piece in the same direction when you reinstall. It may not be an issue right after you lap them but if in the future you change scopes you will not know which is which. I file a small groove on the right rear flats (not visible when assembled) and front left flats. Right or left does not matter but you can not reverse the rings and put front on back and the like. Clear as mud?

If you lap too much you may have to reduce the flats to bottom out the screws. I think the easiest way without a milling machine is to lay a piece of sand paper flat on the bench and rub the flats across it.
 
the burris signature rings are simply the cat's meow!

I have switched all my rifles over to them, never put a mark on a scope again.
 
+1 signatures. I only have one set of non-signatures left and they will go when I remove that scope someday.

2much- you are right, but I was assuming (bad thing to do) that they were not quick releases or anything extraordinary on a Banner.
 
Actually I bought my one inch reamer from a metal shop for about 18 bucks. It has both cutters and a one inch shaft that can be coated with lapping compound for lapping. I actually don't use the cutter portion, just lap til I have a perfect fit. Like smokingun said it's surprising how imperfect scope rings often fit. The nicest thing you can do for your scope is lap all your rings.

One simple and inexpensive lapping tool is just go to your local metal shop and get a one inch by 12 inch piece of steel bar stock. Drill a hole and thread a 3/8 or 1/2 inch bolt into that on one end. Use a good lapping compound and just turn the rod back and forth til you have a shiny finish on both halves of the inside of the rings.
 
Quote:
the burris signature rings are simply the cat's meow!

I have switched all my rifles over to them, never put a mark on a scope again.



You got that right - they are on ALL of my rifles except two.
No misalignment, no ring marks, plus you get the advantage of setting the scope up so you get ALL of the elevation you paid for...

"Meow"... from the CatShooter /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

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The objective here is to get 100% scope tube contact with both the front and rear rings, or as close to 100% as I feel comfortable with, that will hold the scope tube without stressing it. I think 90% will work. I lap my rings and find that the 10% mentioned is close to being correct. With manufacturing tolerance stack up, the rings are not in perfect alignment as installed on a set of bases. So, reaming, or lapping is required. Although I lap, I think the best solution is to ream the rings with a cutter. It's faster and does a better job. But, doing something as compared to nothing is the only solution. Doing nothing creates a situation where scope tubes are stressed through misalignment of the front and rear rings. If the rings are steel, then some touch up bluing is needed to keep rust from forming. Aluminum rings are not a problem. Also, I break the sharp edges at the front and rear of both rings.

Martyn
 
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