Fraternal Order of Forster (Bonanza) Co-Ax Owners Unite!

I am a big fan of Forster/Bonanza products. Their bullet seaters and Neck sizers especially.

The Forster neck sizer will also bump shoulders, very hand asset to have in your tool box.

Their dies are set up in a very special way that does not yank the neck out of alignment.
 
As this in now 2016 and so many things have changed.
I acquired a set of Dillon 9mm Pistol dies.
The Dillon FL Resizing and De-Priming dies has taken every bit of fidlyness out of the process. The Dillon dies have a small but effective radius on the opening to the die, this allows a very fast and extremely efficient Re-Sizing and De-Priming function which in the Pistol loading function is where most of the reloading stress is involved.
Second I acquired a CH4D Primer Pocket Swage kit. As most of my brass is once fired ex-military. There are two choices, remove metal or swage the existing crimp back into place. I chose the swage process.
The CH4D swage process is easy to set up and simple to use.
The other difference is I have everything set up using the InLineFabrication Mounting and Quick Change mounting plates.
In my case this will allow me to change out between the Original Bonanza Co-Ax and the New Forster Co-Ax Press during the rebuild process for direct comparison of the various states of the rebuild.
 
Last edited:
The Old Bonanza Co-Ax Press arrived.
As I opened the box I discovered why this press was for sale.
The original owner of this Bonanza Co-Ax Press, had a seriously stuck case.
The Shellholder Jaw housing is bent in the middle
The Shellholder Jaws are overlapping each other.
The entire mechanism is extremely stiff, every surface and opening is covered or filled with an accumulation of dried out oil and dirt.
At first, the very stiff and extremely uneven operation of the yoke lever, the Guide Rods give the feeling they may be bent.
There are what appears to be hammer blows to the Frame and Yoke
There are what appears to be gouge marks in the top of the frame.
The Yoke Handle was removed and later reattached using a large cotter pin.
Using the DIY Formula (ATF+Acetone 50/50) most of the working parts have been freed up.
Currently the Right Hand Pin A remains frozen in place
Currently the Guide Rod Roll Pins remain frozen in Place
With the exception of a few gouge marks and what appears to be hammer blows the paint work appears to be intact.
The Removed Pins appears to indicate more dried out & built up oil & dirt than physical abuse.
I still am unable to upload pictures to the web site.
 
I now have all the Pivot Pins removed.
I spoke to Rod at Forster about the removal of the Guide Rods and obtained the following information.
The Roll Pins retaining the Guide Rods are slightly shorter than the diameter of the Guide Rod.
The intended removal process is to drive the Roll Pin into the Guide Rod until the Roll Pin strikes the casting on the opposite side.
A sharp strike on the Guide Rod should then begin the Guide Rod removal process.
When the Guide Rod is removed from the Press the Roll Pins can then be removed from the Guide Rod.
The Roll Pin hole does not go all the way through the guide block casting (the roll pin on the left will not contact the pin on the right), the roll pin is shorter than the diameter of the guide rod.
The hole does not go all the way through the guide block casting (the roll pin on the left will not contact the pin on the right), however the roll pin is shorter than the diameter of the guide rod.
I added the instructions to the first part of the disassembly process, so no one would miss the removal process.
 
Last edited:
Current Plans:
New Forster parts such as, Pivot Pins, Guide Rods, Roll Pins, Primer Seater Assembly, Wear Plate have been discussed with Forster for the purpose of a complete restoration. When I have a completed invoice price list I will post it for future reference.
Note: 1: I intend to use the Mike Manzella Jaw Housings to prevent any possible future housing distortion.
Note 2: I intend to use InLineFabrication, Roller Handles, Pivot Links, Quick Mount base plates.
Note 3: As the Paintwork appears to be in reasonable shape there may be no requirement to repaint the Frame and Guide Block Casting.
Please stand by for future updates.
 
sounds like an interesting project.

I have two co-ax presses, I leave one for 308 bolt face rounds and the other for 222/223 bolt face rounds

I picked up the second one used but in really nice shape for a reasonable price after spending a few too many times crawling around looking for the springs and other little parts when switching them over.
 
Today Sun 2016-12-18
I finally managed to remove the Right hand Guide Rod From the Guide Block Casting.
I was for to use an assembly similar to a Gear Puller.
I will Post Pictures when I learn how.
I still have to remove the Right Hand Guide Rod from the Top Frame member.
I have the guide rod and Frame soaking in the mix of ATF and Acetone Penetrating oil.
This solution has made a huge impact in the ability of my being able to remove any of the parts.
Once I have the Right Hand Guide Rod Removed I will be able to perform measurements and take observations of the offending Guide Rod.
So far nothing has been easy in this project.
When I am finished I should be able to document the process from the beginning so if anyone runs into a similar situation I should have a workable solution complete with pictures once I learn how to upload them on the web site.
 
Today after speaking with Forster concerning the stuck Guide Rod, they recommended I draw file the exposed guide to remove any distortion in the metal so it be freed up sufficient to pull free of the Co-Ax Frame.
Draw Filing a Round Rod is time consuming process as only two or three passes are made before the rod must be turned to expose another track to be draw filed.
This process is repeated until all of the Guide Distortion is removed and the guide rod can be removed from the frame.
I will post again when I can report the successful removal of the Guide Rod.
 
I just got my co-ax all set up. man I wish I had bought one of these way back when! great press. love the priming drop tube and the shell holder system..and the no screw dies...and the short handle set up...and everything else!
 
Success!
I have finally removed the the Stuck Guide Rod.
While the Draw File Technique is tedious it does proceed reasonably quickly.
The advantage is you can see the removal process as you work carefully around the circumference.
The draw file technique also reveals the damage as you draw each stroke down the guide rod.
I strongly recommend everyone have a Stuck Case Removal kit on hand as it is far better to have one and not require it than to Desperately Need One and Not Have It. the
I have placed the Order for all damaged Pivot Pins, Guide Rods, Roll Pins ETC
 
Originally Posted By: Rich in VAI'd toss the 'issued' shellholder and switch to standard ones. Can't say I miss changing those things out......

You turned your Co-ax into a One-ax.
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: fw707Originally Posted By: Rich in VAI'd toss the 'issued' shellholder and switch to standard ones. Can't say I miss changing those things out......

You turned your Co-ax into a One-ax.
grin.gif


I don't prime on it, either......
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Rich in VAOriginally Posted By: fw707Originally Posted By: Rich in VAI'd toss the 'issued' shellholder and switch to standard ones. Can't say I miss changing those things out......

You turned your Co-ax into a One-ax.
grin.gif


I don't prime on it, either......
smile.gif


Oh no!!
cry.gif


grin.gif
 
Having used the Bonanza since 1968 and after experiencing many failures on other presses, I for one will never go back to another press.
Attempting to explain the Bonanza/Forster automatic shell holder It is like trying to explain some people, they have to be experienced as they defy description.
As to using the Forster Co-Ax press priming assembly works well, like everything about a single stage press while it may take more time it is deadly accurate in the way it seats the primer.
I obtained this particular Old Bonanza because the original owner had a stuck case and did not know how nor by the damage he left behind did not ask for or receive good advice into how to perform the following operations
1. Release the Shellholder assembly to free the cartridge from the grip of the shell holder
2. Remove the Die c/w the stuck case intact from the press.
3. once the stuck case the Die and the Stuck are out of the press the process of removing the stuck case is dependent upon your equipment on hand.
the RCBS method http://rifleshooter.com/2015/09/how-to-remove-a-stuck-case-from-a-sizing-die/
The Forster method
Either process will work well.
The problem as I have now discovered is when people are alone and without guidance the first time stuck case can cause panic and result in damage to the best of reloading presses.
I have spoken to Forster about this and I hope to see a detailed write up or a video on the process in the future.
Removing a Stuck Case from the Press intact and without causing damage to the press or the loading die or shell holder can be a bit daunting IF you do not have guidance.
This is especially true for the new reloader and panic sets in.
 
I spoke again with Forster again.
The issue of releasing a stuck cartridge from the Forster Shellholder Jaws is very simple.
1. Obtain qty 2 small 1/8 inch blade screw drivers
2. Using the small screw drivers insert one into the left end of the exposed jaws and the other into the right end of the exposed jaws. As you insert the screw drivers into the exposed jaws the shellholder jaws will release the captured cartridge. IF you find the jaws need to be opened more, to release the cartridge, carefully pry the jaws apart using the screwdrivers.
Once the jaws are carefully payed apart releasing the Cartridge move on to the next part.
Slide the Die, c/w the stuck cartridge out of the Forster/Bonanza Co-Ax Press.
Proceed to next stage and using either an RCBS or a Forster Stuck Case Remover Kit and remove the stuck case from the Reloading Die.
 
Guide Rod Casting
I have the Guide Rod Casting removed and during the cleaning process to remove all the accumulated dried oil and dirt I have found more evidence of abuse.
The Guide Rod casting has been repeatedly struck with a hammer, most likely in the attempt to dislodge the stuck case.
Here is where the Bonanza/Forster Co-Ax design shines.
Using two small screwdrivers nominal 1/8 inch blade(s) begin to slowly ease one between the Jaw Holder and the outer end of the jaw holder assembly, repeat on the opposite side.
Continue to ease the screw driver between the shell holder jaw assembly and the jaws until the cartridge is released.
At this point the Stuck cartridge and the reloading die can safely be removed from the press to proceed onto the Stuck case removal process, free from the press entirely.
You may choose the RCBS Drill and Tap method or the Forster Drift Pin method depending on your choice or preference.
 
Last edited:
Today 2017-01-04
All my new, rebuild parts arrived from Forster.
I will start from a clean slate and rebuild the old Bonanza Co-Ax Press as it was intended.
I am still in the cleaning process and want the Basic Frame, Guide Rod Casting Block and the Yoke Handle to look virtually new.
Once the Main Components look like new then I will begin the assembly process.
I am making progress, just not as fast as I would prefer.
Please bare in mind this is a restoration, to a fully functional working press not a static museum presentation, looks are what can be seen, the function can be felt and experienced the real evidence is down range.
 
Forster/Bonanza Co-Ax Jaw Holder Upgrade
Mike Manzella $37 USD via PayPal

This is a Great addition to any Forster/Bonanza co-Ax press.
Obtained the Drills and Taps to upgrade the Yoke Handle Retaining to Allen Key.
To change out the Forster/Bonanza handle to the InLine Fabrication Roller handle is a simple loosening of the Allen Key remove old and insert new and tighten the Allen Screw.
Obtained the Drills and Taps to upgrade the Guide Rod Casting to the new style Allen Key to retain Pivot Pin C
 
Last edited:
Quick Note
With the Guide Rods removed I was able to remove the internal burrs in the Guide Block Casting which caused the difficulty in the first place.
With the Guide Rod Block Casting burrs removed, the Guide Rods now slide through the Frame, through the Guide Rod Casting and back into the frame.
The Guide Rod securing roll pins are then driven home to complete the sliding assembly of the press.
Next all the Pivot Pins , "A", "B" and "C" are inserted along with the Yoke and the connecting Links.
The Basic Portion of the Project is complete.
Now I have to take all the Photos and assemble them and figure out how to load them to this thread.
So everyone can see what I am talking about.
 
Back
Top