Any caveats with Nickel brass?

SShooterZ

New member
Acquired a whole boat load of Federal .308 Nickel plated brass and would hate to not be able to use it.

I remember doing some loading with nickel brass in the past but I haven't used it in a few years.

Any concerns, issues, FYIs I should be aware of before loading this stuff up?

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Lots of folks say that the plated nickel will chip and ruin dies? A noted writer " Steve Timm" i believe his name was swore by it and posted findings here a few years back.. Try the search function. He was shooting .223AI I believe. I have never accumulated enough to test the difference.
 
When I first picked up my 243 Hawkeye, I bought some factory ammo to start the brass collection. It was nickel win stuff.
I am currently on reload #13 with it, and no issues.
My dies hold where I leave them.
 
I guess I am partly to blame for the stereotype to which Orneryolfart357 describes. I once reported that in high speed loading equipment (a modified Camdex and a converted Russian transfer press), nickel plated brass does indeed produce more heat and subsequent wear on dies. It is unfortunate that so many members here lack the basic logic to understand the discongruity of this statement and the question at hand. Therefore, let me put it more simple terms.......Even if you have an Automate equipped Dillon 1050, it is not likely you are going to wear out a set of dies with nickle plated brass.

Beyond the heretofore mentioned discourse, I personally don't use very much of it (even though my brother works at a nickle plating company). The Remington flavor seems to show even more weight disparity than their un-plated variety. Some of the Eastern European stuff also tends to shed the plating if you try to anneal it. I have little experience with the Federal brand as I don't like any of their recently manufactured brass.

John
 
Originally Posted By: pcammo......It is unfortunate that so many members here lack the basic logic to understand the discongruity of this statement and the question at hand. Therefore, let me put it more simple terms...........
John


Even catshooter????????


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Not really, except that after multiple reloads you may find that the plating begins to remove itself from the case. But hey if you got em, smoke em!
 
I think it may be kinda hard on the cutter in your case trimmer. Doesn't seem to have had any effect on my carbide pistol sizer in 30 years, though, and those cases have almost all been plated.
 
Originally Posted By: pcammoI guess I am partly to blame for the stereotype to which Orneryolfart357 describes. I once reported that in high speed loading equipment (a modified Camdex and a converted Russian transfer press), nickel plated brass does indeed produce more heat and subsequent wear on dies. It is unfortunate that so many members here lack the basic logic to understand the discongruity of this statement and the question at hand. Therefore, let me put it more simple terms.......Even if you have an Automate equipped Dillon 1050, it is not likely you are going to wear out a set of dies with nickle plated brass.

Beyond the heretofore mentioned discourse, I personally don't use very much of it (even though my brother works at a nickle plating company). The Remington flavor seems to show even more weight disparity than their un-plated variety. Some of the Eastern European stuff also tends to shed the plating if you try to anneal it. I have little experience with the Federal brand as I don't like any of their recently manufactured brass.

John

You made me laugh out loud!!!

Never assume anything from this crowd - wanna talk about magnum primers making you go blind
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Speaking of dies and wear - have you ever used a 223 Dillon Carbide die - it is unquestionably the most best-est die I have ever used, and worth it's weight in gold (well, ~$150-ish anyway)...

... unfortunately, their 308 Carbide is a two piece affair that is often misaligned and leaves a belt on the shoulder (a hard thing to explain to customers
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I have averaged 6-7 loadings with nickel plated Fed 308 brass before the primer pockets loosen up and I have to start discarding them.

Of the last 100 I used, I do not recall the nickel flaking off on any of them. However, I have had nickel plated brass flake in the past. When it does, the case goes in the trash can........
 
I have used it exclusively with 17 Rem. In fact, I prefer it over brass 17 Rem. Flaking has not been a problem and I've not noticed any die problems either. It almost never stretches (in my 17's) nor has split necks been any more of a problem over standard brass.
I also use it in 38's and 357's, but I don't shoot much of it any more.
 
I just got 200 pcs of rem nickel for my 22-250. And was wondering. Is it harder?should I anneal it? With the fumes cause certain death in the next 20-30 years ????
 
Originally Posted By: nastynatesfishI just got 200 pcs of rem nickel for my 22-250. And was wondering. Is it harder?should I anneal it?

Anneal it like regular brass.

Originally Posted By: nastynatesfish

"With the fumes cause certain death in the next 20-30 years ????"



It's like artificial sugar - you drink 800 sodas a day for 1,200 years and you get cancer...

... well you eat 800 nickle plated cases a day for 1,200 years and your toes will turn black and fall off!!!


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In my .223 Ackley rifles and my 7SGLC rifle, the nickle wears off the cases before it actually flakes off.

I frankly prefer nickle for Ackley rounds, mostly because they feed like quicksilver.

No accuracy diff at all ... and besides, silver cases make me look like the Lone Ranger
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God Bless,

Steve Timm

 
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