Stock and trigger mods for a Savage Edge

Originally Posted By: joedirtNuke and DM,

This is my first attempt at blogging but was really thankful for your info so I signed up. First time for everything. I combined what you guys did... used a 10-24 threaded screw, cut it to less than height of safety screw, got a #5 spring at ACE and a slightly weaker/same diameter spring (sorry did not write down #). I ended up useing weaker spring cut to same length as origional. Anyway,worked great! I am going to get a scale but I would guess it reduced from 6# to about 3#. No creep/travel, safety sound, overall excellent. May attempt to get a bit lighter but afraid to polish. May just run some fine wet sandpaper over it and try again. Thanks again, saved me over a hundred bucks. That wets the eye.

90% of the time you don't need anything more abrasive than some polish. Hard to go to deep with it and make a noticeable difference on all but the crappiest of triggers.
 
Hey all,

I pulled mine apart to take a look at it and I noticed the sear seems to be pretty poor shape...and I've only fired the rifle a dozen times since I bought it new a month ago!

You can kind of see in the pics that there are a few gouges out of the sear surface. There seemed to be a lot of grey (metal?) dust on it too as it got all over my fingers.

Is this an issue? Is it wearing prematurely or is this to be expected??







 
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I used a #10 machine screw in the existing threads to hold the spring in place and I found too that a spring from a pen worked without modification. The trigger pull went from 5.5lbs to 3lbs (all my pulls are between 3-4lbs)which is perfect for me. Since I had the stainless screw and pen, total cost: $0
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It is unbelievable how tight my groups (3/4" groups) are with this economy priced gun ($267.00 out the door)and weighs 6.5lbs.

I had to replace my Rem 700 stock with an B&C stock to get 1/2” groups so if you’re on a budget, need a truck gun, or looking for a gun for the kiddo, look into this gun.
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Disclaimer:

This is a discussion on the Savage Edge/Axis purchase and things that I have done.
The information I provide is a help tool and should be performed by a gunsmith or someone over the age of 18 that possesses extensive knowledge of firearms and other mechanical workings. In short, If you decide to use the information above and perform these mods yourself, and/or buy the rifle based on this information, you’re on your own.
 
Just did this mod on a new Axis 223. Worked like a charm ... used a set screw with some blue loctite. Bought a spring from Ace and cut it to size. After it passed the drop test, I took it to the range and shot about a 1.25 inch group at 100 yards. And this is my first rifle, bought it yesterday ... the gun makes this amateur look good.
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Originally Posted By: buckaroo108512I have the savage axis. Hears it was the same as the edge? Will this trigger mod work on my axis. Chambered in .308

Yes. I just did this trigger mod on my Axis which I purchased last Saturday.
From 6lbs to under 4lbs in 10 minutes and under $2.
 
Hey, I registered for this forum just to tell you thank you.

For those of you not wanting to mess with the push pin, Ace Hardware carries the PERFECT screw, don't have to cut or anything. It's purely a threaded screw - no big head or anything. It's literally 1/2" maybe less long

Size screw = 10-24
Loctite Blue
Springs(I used 7/32" springs, although I think the 1/4" would have been a better fit)

I bought a 4 pack of springs from Ace - they're not MUCH softer than the stock, to be honest, but it still allowed me to soften the trigger up a ton, and the stroke is much, much, much shorter. I stretched the spring out a tad hoping it would soften up - and it did as far as I can tell.

Anyways - all is well. I did the mod yesterday afternoon and I'm re assembling the gun today(gave some time for the loctite to completely dry for the screw)

Thanks again folks!

Also, gun is a Savage Axis chambered in 30-06
 
Thanks to those that pointed me to this thread. I just got done doing the mod to my .223. I was able to use a sawed off screw i had on hand in my shop and a spring from a pen. I didn't trim the spring at all- it was the same length as the stock spring and less than half as strong.

I was able to get sub-1/2 inch groups on occasion with the stock spring so i expect that to be the norm when i take her to the range with the new spring. I will post up a range report when i get there.
 
JUST PICKED UP AN AXIS IN 308 OUT HERE IN GEORGIA, GOT THE 308 CAUSE ITS A EASY LOAD TO COME BY. DID THE SINGLE COIL CLIP MOD ON THE TRIGGER SPRING LAST NIGHT. WELL SEE HOW IT GOES AT THE RANGE THIS WEEKEND, THANKS TO ALL THE REGULARS ON THIS SITE, YOUR WORDS OF WISDOM REALLY HELPED ME OUT, PLANNIN ON PICKIN ONE UP IN 223 BEFORE I HEAD BACK OUT WEST THIS SUMMER.
 
Ok..I am convinced..stopping by Ace on the way home to give this a try this eve...

One question...are you guys removing your scopes when you do this??? I am just wondering about knocking around the scope that hard to test the trigger.

I have the Nikon Bushmaster 4.5 x 14 BDC model...
 
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I stopped at Ace on the way home and picked up a 10-24 stainless steel button head screw and a 1/4" dia spring.

I measured the factory trigger at 5.8. I clipped the new spring to the same length that was sticking above the trigger on the factory setup. I now have 3.2 lbs and it feels good.

Thanks for the tip grubbs!
 
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I just found this place, and would like to give info on what I have ndone to my Edge/Axis chambered in 308. My trigger pull out of the box was 9.5 pounds, way too heavy. I had put bipods on it. I was stunned by the kick it had. It would raise the bipod 4 to 6 inches off the table when fired. Even my nephew who was a machine gunner in the Marines said it had a nasty kick, and insaine trigger. Calling Savage was a waste of time. They said the accuetrigger will not fit, and any mods will void warranty. This even included removing part of the plastic stock where it rubbed the barrel. It's supposed to be free floating. The plastic stock appeared to have warped after it came out of the injunction mold, before it had fully cooled. Savage said they would not replace the stock, and any mods would void the warranty, again. I voided the warranty. I'm a machinist, so I polished the faces on the trigger and sear. Pull is about 4.5 pounds. Still jumping off the table though. Since I only target shoot, I only have to carry it from the car to the bench. I pulled the buttcap, and barrel. I then mixed epoxy and #9 lead shot, and filled the openings in the foregrip, and butt of the stock. It now weighs 17.8 pounds, and stays on the table. That is very close to the weight of the M40A5 Marine Scout Sniper Rifle (.308). Then I found the muzzle drop on trigger pull due to the flex of the wrist of the stock. To fix this, I drilled 2 holes back into the stock from the back of the where the trigger guard fits. I then formed 2 pieces of 3/16 diameter steel rod to slide into the stock, and lay along the stock to the front of the mag well. The sides of the trigger guard were relieved or inletted to hold the rods. I then used the Loctite metal/concrete epoxy to bond the trigger hard in place. This stiffened up the wrist a large amount. It still flexes, but it is now less than 1/4 MOA of movement. I also ground away part of the foregrip to allow the barrel to float. The flex there also helped the rifle to jump when fired, but the lead helps keep it under control. My next step is to fit it with a muzzle break. This will allow me to adjust out the remaining rise, and the tendency to snap to the left when fired. With the muzzle break, it will be a kitten to fire. It all ready is taimer than my youngest nephew's .270, and my brother's 25-06. I hope this helps any of you that are fighting Savages poor stock and trigger. I am happy with the barrel and action. I have shot several sub-MOA groups. I will probably change the spring as given in the thread, and will run David Tubb's Final Finish rounds through it next time I go to shoot.
 
I'm going to have to contact Tubb. After the last modification, and changing the trigger, I went to the range. I used hornady superformance ammo. Cold bore shot was left of the other 4 rounds about 2 inches. The remaining 4 rounds were a .4 inch group. Range was 100 yards. I followed Tubb's directions exactly. Clean, 10 rounds, clean, and repeate for the 50 rounds, and clean again. I made sure the berrel was cool before each group. After final clean, I fired a 5 round group. Cold bore shot was not outside of group, but the group was now 1.4 inches. No rounds touching, just spread out.
 
I have to say Mr. Tubb is a fair man. When I called his office and gave them the information on what happened with my rifle, he is going to reemburse me for the cost of having my rifle rebarreled. I won't use the final finish rounds again, nor the throat maintenance rounds, but I will still do business with him.

Rex
 
I reduced my trigger pull on my savage axis .223 from 6.5 lbs to 3.1 lbs by clipping down the "trigger spring" I basically followed the video in the link below. I went from shooting 2.5 inch groups at 200yards to 1 inch groups, at 150 yards its less than 3/4'' groups and at 100 yards I literally can drive tack heads with it..Im using.223 Remington 55 grain Nosler Ballistic Tips re-loaded by Ultra-Max ammunition, you can get them at a fairly cheap price to.



 
Just bought one and was thinking about taking it somewhere for a trigger job but thinking this may be a better option if it is easy. Thanks for all the links
 
Okay well in the last 40 minutes i went to the hardware store to get a small set of snips for the spring and did both my axis and my friends axis. Neither one took more than 5 minutes or so a piece. Very easy to do and made a 6-7 lb trigger into a much lighter trigger i would say 2.5-3.5 lb. This is a must for any new savage axis owner.
 
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