Originally Posted By: rtaylorI've got a serious problem with rabbits eating my garden every year. I'm in the middle of a neighborhood so it limits the methods of killing them. I have a 6 foot privacy fence around the back yard and there are a couple of places that they are coming under. Last year I tried a trap but they were too smart for it so I ran a few snares. Every time the snare would be closed up the size of a dime with no rabbit. How are they getting out? Any snaring advice would be greatly appreciated.
Often people give up snaring thinking, it’s simply impossible for them. True, rabbit snare is a tricky business and normal folks give up after a few attempts.
The best-known way is to place a “snare wire” in the natural path of the rabbit, easy to find the track or trail. As the bunny hops in it, the wire tightens around it.
But getting it right is very important and check for chances where the wire loop is knocked over by the wind or the bunny jumping under or over the snare.
There are three types of legal snares. The free-standing loop, the static loop and the hoop snare. Like the
squirrel removal squirrel removal experts say, getting the right height and in just the right place requires skill.
Though people might suggest you use your hands as a scale of size, the only size you should consider should be 6 and a half inches from the bottom of the loop to the floor. Make your loops 7.5 inches wide so that the loop goes over and under the rabbit’s ears and chin. No need to smell mask your trap, but avoid any unnatural smell. Check the trap often to reset and not miss a chance.
Leave them all night and for the early hours of the morning. Set your snare traps between the hops so that the rabbit’s neck enters the loop before/after it hops. Target for beats, tracks and paths. Set the peg right, so that it won’t come out easy and nice.