Sightron MOA-2 reticle

IAyoteHNTR

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I'm trying to decide what scope to put on a long range gun I'll be using for PD's, target shooting, etc. and I'm curious to know who has one of the Sightron scopes with the MOA-2 reticle and would like to know your opinions on it.

Thanks.
 
I have two of them. A 6-24 and an 8-32. Excellent scopes for prairie dogs.I really like the MOA-2 reticle.I use them every year in Wyoming busting pdogs.Glass quality is very good and tracking is spot on.
I used to use Nightforce but I can get the same quality and performance with the Sightrons for 1/2 the price.
 
Originally Posted By: 1up5downI have two of them. A 6-24 and an 8-32. Excellent scopes for prairie dogs.I really like the MOA-2 reticle.I use them every year in Wyoming busting pdogs.Glass quality is very good and tracking is spot on.
I used to use Nightforce but I can get the same quality and performance with the Sightrons for 1/2 the price.

That's the kind of info I've been seeing out there. Great for PD's/etc for 1/2 the price of Nightforce. I'm going to have to start watching out for a good deal on one. I think a 6-24 would be fine but for not much difference in price I might just have to consider the 8-32.
 
Well, I saw a good deal on a used Sightron SIII 8-32X56 with the LR dot reticle for $650 shipped/insured so that's what I'm going to try out for now.
 
I too am looking for a good scope that is far less than Nightforce in price range but offers two features others cant guarantee. I need a scope that is absolutely positive in returning to zero after manipulating the turrets and I need a scope that actually has the click values equal to what they are stated to be by the manufacturer through the full adjustment range.
I have tried many different brands including Leaupold, Burris, Weaver, and many others including some Euro glass like Kalies but have never had one that can deliver on these two points, NEVER!
At what price level are these things a given? If someone has an answer from experience I will question """ have you shot the box"""? If yes was the return to zero exact? Was the click value precisely as advertised? If these two questions can honestly be answered yes I will be looking at for purchase the scope that did it.
 
I am not a fan of 2 moa markings on a scope especially when your trying to hit very small targets like you are. The optics world is obsessed by first focal plane and the mil system for all the sniper wanna be's. everyone follows a pack and group think. I was in a gun store yesterday and the guy behind the counter was pimping a vortex viper with FFP reticle, I grab the scope and reticle looks great at max power, however on low power the reticle is pretty much unusable. why the tacitcal community pushes this arrangment I will never know.

of the scopes that are available I would look at the nightforce SHV series with MOAR reticle.
 
It makes little difference to me what the spacing's are as long as they are equal. I just don't care for any type of BDC reticle because they are specific to a certain bullet BC at a specific velocity. Change those things and the BDC is off.
If the spacing's are too small it gets hard to see them and keep track of where you are in the column. I have a lot of trouble with that in a 6X SWFA with the mil quad reticle. This reticle has full mil dots and half mil hash marks. For my old eyes its hard to use. The same scope in 10X gives greater clarity between markings and is much easier for me to keep track of where I am in the column. If you were to make the spacing's smaller even with the 10X it would make the same problem I have with the 6X. I don't want higher than 10X magnification because it reduces field of view and makes it very hard to pick up moving targets unless they are very far away.
Full mil spacing's are easy to keep track of even at low power magnification but leave something to be desired when aiming at very small targets. I think mil dots were originally intended to use on 18" target area so when your aiming at a 4" target and the range does not fall exactly on one of the dots it leaves the hold up to guessing where exactly to hold in-between the dots.
I could get by nicely with a fixed 8, 9, or 10X with half mil spacing's but I need for the scope to be absolutely dependable in returning to zero after manipulating the turrets, and I need for the scope to be true to the click value assigned to it through the entire adjustment range. I need that for $400.00 but I doubt it is available for that price range. I seriously doubt it is available for under $1,000.00 and even at that price range I wonder. I will never be able to spend $2,000.00 or more for a rifle scope so weather they can or can not is a moot point for me.
Now can someone steer me toward a $400.00 to $500.00 scope that can deliver the goods I need?
 
Here's a tip from a long time shooter and scope whore.

High powered scopes on prairie dog rifles are almost as useless as a screen door on a submarine. When the air temps rise the mirage is going to get so bad you won't be able to use them and have to turn them down anyways. The highest magnification scope I own is a Z5 Swarovski 5-25 and its very, very rarely ever turned up over 18x and spend much of its time around 14-16 power.

Go with a scope that has lower magnification and great glass. You will be able to do far more with it over a scope with high magnification and mediocre glass. It will be much easier on your eyes if nothing else.

bullshop
I've never had a problem with turrets on a Leupold scope returning to zero or making the correct adjustment for a long range shot. They have been and still are a large player in tactical style scopes for LE agency's and military around the world. Why they don't work in Montana is is news to me.

If they are not repeatable for you there's only 3 things it can be. The scope, the rifle or the shooter. Leupold can fix the scope but they can't compensate for the latter..

What rifle is it on?
How far are your shots?
Handloads or factory fodder?
Do you chronograph the loads to get exact velocity?
What ballistic program are you using?
 
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What rifle is it on? Several over time and several scopes
How far are your shots? Rarely over 600 yards
Handloads or factory fodder? Handloads
Do you chronograph the loads to get exact velocity? Yes
What ballistic program are you using? Sierra infinity
Any Leupold scopes I have used that were supposed to have .25" clicks were closer to about .33" on average through the adjustment range.
Shooting a box has never come back to zero. I have never used the top end Leupold scopes just the vari-x models. I may not have extraordinary shooting ability but going by the group center regardless of how small or large the group is should tell me if the adjustments are working correctly or not. Not using individual shots but groups of shots for testing.
What I see are changes in click value depending on where you are in the adjustment range.
I doubt but may be wrong that LE of Military are using the low end offerings of whatever brand of scope they use. I also doubt that you get the same precision in a Leupold MK-4 as in a vari-X-1 or 11 or 111.
 
I have an 8-32 and pop PD's at 500 yards with surprsing ease.
This scope has given me 2 PD's at 700 yards back to back.
I highly recommend the SIGHTRON !
I'd like to add - stay away from the LUCID L-5 !!!!!
 
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Originally Posted By: SkidmarksI have an 8-32 and pop PD's at 500 yards with surprsing ease.
This scope has given me 2 PD's at 700 yards back to back.
I highly recommend the SIGHTRON !
I'd like to add - stay away from the LUCID L-5 !!!!!

I hope to be able to get one out past 600, out around 700 would be a real plus!
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Originally Posted By: bullshopWhat rifle is it on? Several over time and several scopes
How far are your shots? Rarely over 600 yards
Handloads or factory fodder? Handloads
Do you chronograph the loads to get exact velocity? Yes
What ballistic program are you using? Sierra infinity
Any Leupold scopes I have used that were supposed to have .25" clicks were closer to about .33" on average through the adjustment range.
Shooting a box has never come back to zero. I have never used the top end Leupold scopes just the vari-x models. I may not have extraordinary shooting ability but going by the group center regardless of how small or large the group is should tell me if the adjustments are working correctly or not. Not using individual shots but groups of shots for testing.
What I see are changes in click value depending on where you are in the adjustment range.
I doubt but may be wrong that LE of Military are using the low end offerings of whatever brand of scope they use. I also doubt that you get the same precision in a Leupold MK-4 as in a vari-X-1 or 11 or 111.

Click values don't change at different parts in the adjustment range. It can't, it all runs off the same threaded screw.

Very, very few people can shoot consistently enough (with the exception of maybe BR shooters) to discern any information based on the center of one group to the center of another group while shooting a box test. There's just too many variables. Most guys that try it shoot one bullet in each corner and still it will only be consistent if you and your rifle are capable of very to extremely good accuracy.

I used to use Sierra's program years ago, it was good but not great. I had so-so luck with it. Try this one from JBM, its free and I've found it to be very good. I've also started using the G7 profiles for BC's instead of the old standard G1's and its helped a little more. I think it gets you a better overall average of BC rather than what's at the muzzle or a B&C for a given velocity, It makes a difference down range.
http://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml

Leupold discontinued the vari-x series of scopes several years ago. While they were ok the new VX series of scopes are much better. The glass in the new ones is far improved and the turrets are precise and return to zero. I put a 6-18 VX2 with turrets on my sons 223 and its been a very consistent scope for us. Its not top of the line but it does adjust accurately and return to zero without a problem. It fit the budget we had for his first scope too, they can be had for under 500 bucks.

The bottom line is this. If you've had problems with all these scopes then its time to take a look at something besides the scope. Maybe the math ain't working out, loads are not consistent enough, maybe the rifle just isn't up to the task.
 
Other problems I have with my scopes is that when small adjustments are made sometimes they don't seem to move the full adjustment amount until after a shot is fired.
For instance say if I adjust to move POI 5" right and 5" down the first shot may only move half the adjustment amount but after that shot the rest will be correct for the amount of adjustment made.
Also I find that sometimes when an adjustment is made say in windage for instance that it will also effect the elevation or visa versa. Maybe its just me and bad shooting but when I have a scope zeroed that has settled in after some shooting and with a rifle and load that are capable I have been able to shoot 5 shot 100 yard groups well under .5 moa. The best I have ever done is about .25 moa so at least at times my shooting would not seem to be the problem.
Right now the scopes I am using most are SWFA and Falcon and I have all the issues mentioned with both makes.
 
Originally Posted By: bullshopOther problems I have with my scopes is that when small adjustments are made sometimes they don't seem to move the full adjustment amount until after a shot is fired.
For instance say if I adjust to move POI 5" right and 5" down the first shot may only move half the adjustment amount but after that shot the rest will be correct for the amount of adjustment made.
Also I find that sometimes when an adjustment is made say in windage for instance that it will also effect the elevation or visa versa. Maybe its just me and bad shooting but when I have a scope zeroed that has settled in after some shooting and with a rifle and load that are capable I have been able to shoot 5 shot 100 yard groups well under .5 moa. The best I have ever done is about .25 moa so at least at times my shooting would not seem to be the problem.
Right now the scopes I am using most are SWFA and Falcon and I have all the issues mentioned with both makes.

I'm thinkin its time to invest in a quality scope.
 
Originally Posted By: bullshop""""I'm thinkin its time to invest in a quality scope""""
EXACTLY !!!! And what would that be?

What all does it have to have?

Does it have to have a mildot or ranging reticle?
If you use a rangefinder and a properly developed dope card your going to be much closer to target than using a mildot to guesstimate range then adjust.

Also, what rifle is it going on and what mounts do you currently have?

Is this a calling rifle, small varmints, big game rifle... What do you use this for.

Preferred magnification?
Keep in mind if the glass is good you can get by with less.

Budget? What's the most you can spend... And I mean what's the absolute top dollar you can outlay that you think is at the very edge of..... "you can still make the mortgage but gonna have to eat top ramen for a few weeks kinda deal"
 
+100...Quote:High powered scopes on prairie dog rifles are almost as useless as a screen door on a submarine. When the air temps rise the mirage is going to get so bad you won't be able to use them and have to turn them down anyways. The highest magnification scope I own is a Z5 Swarovski 5-25 and its very, very rarely ever turned up over 18x and spend much of its time around 14-16 power. ...I can only use my "high powers" in the early part of the morning when shooting PDs,,,Usually by 10am, they are down to 16x....

One of the reasons I'm so happy with my Sightron 4-16x Mil Dot...The mil dot reticle allows me to exercise my hold over much faster for multiple distance shots..But then, I've been shooting the same rifle, hand load, and optic for about eight years and know what to expect out of the combination...
 
"""What all does it have to have?""" -- dependable repeatable click adjustments
"""Does it have to have a mildot or ranging reticle?""" --- mil dot
""" If you use a rangefinder and a properly developed dope card your going to be much closer to target than using a mildot to guesstimate range then adjust. """ I use a laser
""" Also, what rifle is it going on and what mounts do you currently have? """ --- Savage 110 6x284 Picatinni rail Weaver type rings
"""Is this a calling rifle, small varmints, big game rifle... What do you use this for. """ --long range coyotes
"""Preferred magnification? """ --- not over 10x or under 8x fixed OK
"""Budget? What's the most you can spend... And I mean what's the absolute top dollar you can outlay that you think is at the very edge of..... "you can still make the mortgage but gonna have to eat top ramen for a few weeks kinda deal"""" --- subject to change by the moment. Stash held in reserve too long usually gets diverted to a greater family need. Scope purchase therefore must be spontaneous when funds exist so will rarely ever exceed $500.00 but on rare occasions like when I get my fur check in June could.

OK what ya got for me?
 
Your requirement for a mildot reticle severely limits you with your budget. Without a mildot reticle... Its easy.

If you use a range finder and turrets why do you need a mildot reticle?

Its an option that raises costs and hinders the selection of scopes available to you.
 
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