Remington BDL wood stock refinishing

L

Lefty SRH

New member
I am left handedand I cant seem to find a used rifle I like so Ive kinda decided to have one built.
I want a new calling rifle for coyote hunting and Ive always liked the (walnut) Remington BDL style rifles. I have located an appropriate stock but it has the shiney factory finish on it. My plan is to remove the shiney finish and apply a handrubbed oil finish to the wood.
Whats the best way to remove the factory glossy finish? Is using a chemical stripper like acetone harmful to the wood?
What chemical stripper is recommended?
Or is it better to sand the finish off?
Thanks
 
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Years ago I refinished an old BDL stock. I don't know what Remington uses but its tough to remove. I tried oven cleaner first and it didn't do much to remove the finish. I ended up using aircraft paint stripper and it still took several applications, lots of scraping and then some sanding. The stock ended up looking really nice but it took several days to remove the old finish.
 
Home Depot sells a orange citrus smelling stripper. I don't remember the name. It smells good and when I did some cabinets that were varnished it took it off. Mostly in one application. Just follow the instructions on the label. When you are done use mineral spirits to clean stripper off. Might be worth a try. Rudy
 
Thanks Pyscodog, I ha e posted this same thread on another site and one guy came back saying just dull the factory epoxy finish with super fine steel wool.
So your post goes along with his as far as telling me the factory finish is tough. So maybe a complete refinish job isnt the right approach. My goal in the end is just a more dull matte to satin look.
 
Originally Posted By: pyscodog The stock ended up looking really nice but it took several days to remove the old finish.

Yep, you gotta be patient.
The last stock I stripped was an Anschutz. I think they must use an epoxy of some sort because it was tougher than woodpecker lips.
I used a name-brand stripper from Lowe’s but I don’t remember the name. The best method I found was to literally paint on a thick coat with a paintbrush, leave it on for a couple of hours, and scrape it off gently with a dull metal edge like a putty knife-and repeat!
Do the checkered areas last with light coats and remove them gently with a toothbrush.

I used mineral spirits on a rag for the final clean up.
You shouldn’t need to sand anything.


Edit:
I think the stripper I used was what Rudy mentioned.

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My stock was an old BDL and like fw said, harder than woodpecker lips. I don't know what Remington used but its tough. I did finally get it down to bare wood and used super fine sand paper on it after. Then put an oil finish on it. It was really nice when I got done but there were moments that Krylon crossed my mind.
 
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Don’t use a stripper or sand paper! Just use a good scraper. If you scrape it right you won’t remove any wood. Then after scraping sand. Using a scraper saves a ton of time and leaves a really nice and easy to sand with 280 grit finish. Wet sand with 320 and 400
 
I used a scraper made of plastic. The same ones they use to apply bondo. It doesn't take any wood off, just the stripper and old finish. Then sanded after I was down to bare wood. The stripper will slightly raise the grain in the wood and so does the soapy water used to neutralize the stripper. You can scrap it off if you want but the stripper will save some time and you don't have to worry about gouging the stock. I used a stiff bristle brush to clean out the checkering.
 

I have done few stocks. I use Klean-strip KS-3 Stripper and Minwax Wipe-On Poly for finish. Back in the day I used tongue oil, True oil and others. This minwax I have used for 15 years. The striper will melt any plastic parts. If your stock has cut checkering use a soft plastic brush. If it is pressed checkering it is hard to work with just tape it off. Lightly strip it when you finish the rest of the stock. Blend it in with your new finish. I have even have recut some checkering from time to time. My 2 cents

This Boyds thumb hole stock I did for my Browning A-Bolt in 7mm.
I have about 30 coats wipe on of the Minwax.
I like the thumb hole for climbing.
I can really hold the rifle.

PS: Don't forget the inside.

tyGRG55.jpg
 
Well, after hearing numerous responses from this site and another (posting the same thread subject) I dont know what route to go.
I received the stock today and is it ever nice looking stock!!! I kinda hate to dull such a nice finish or even strip it......but I dont want a shiney gun in the field.
But I appreciate all the help and suggestions.
I did notice that the entire stock is finished including all the inletting and barrel channel. So right now it seems only logical to dull the finish at this point.
I do like the used SOS pad idea. I wonder how effective a scotch brite pad would be on dulling the finish.
Sounds like I need another stock to just experiment with now......lol
Thanks guys
 
Nice looking rifle Willy. Your post raises a question about plastic parts and stripper. This particular stock has a black/white line grip cap and a black foreend cap. Again, this is a Remington stock, so are these black pieces plastic?
 
Mine had the black caps on the end and the stripper I used didn't harm it. But I didn't leave it on there very long either. As far as the wood, if it is the older stocks, that finish it hard as the hubs of he11. It was very time consuming getting that old finish off but once I did and got the oil finish on, it looked really nice and was worth the time spent. A nice oil finish on a Remington stock really looks good if the walnut has a lot of figure in it. Mine did and was really good looking when I got done. It isn't hard, just takes time. It all depends on how much time you want to put into it.

On a side note, If what your hunting is close enough to see your shiny stock....chootem.
 
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Originally Posted By: pyscodogMine had the black caps on the end and the stripper I used didn't harm it. But I didn't leave it on there very long either. As far as the wood, if it is the older stocks, that finish it hard as the hubs of he11. It was very time consuming getting that old finish off but once I did and got the oil finish on, it looked really nice and was worth the time spent. A nice oil finish on a Remington stock really looks good if the walnut has a lot of figure in it. Mine did and was really good looking when I got done. It isn't hard, just takes time. It all depends on how much time you want to put into it.

On a side note, If what your hunting is close enough to see your shiny stock....chootem.

Hahaha, Pysco, I like em sitting in my lap before I “chootem”..... lol, I dont what them making fun of my stock and how shiney it is.....lol
 
You might try something like 1000 grit sandpaper and wet sand the stock. Can't tell you the results but that fine of paper shouldn't mess it up. We use to use pumice years ago for finishing wood also. That might knock the shine off too.
 
Originally Posted By: Lefty SRHNice looking rifle Willy. Your post raises a question about plastic parts and stripper. This particular stock has a black/white line grip cap and a black foreend cap. Again, this is a Remington stock, so are these black pieces plastic?

Yes they are plastic and they will melt with what use. the trick is to keep the stripper away from those parts. If you get some on the plastic wipe it off with a wet cloth.

To take the shine off youn stock. I use pumice powder and water on a sponge.
 
Originally Posted By: Ky Fur BusterUse 0000 steel wool to cut the shine down. That works 0000 is okay I just like the pumice better
 
I could be wrong but I really don't think the black tips are plastic. Not sure just what they are but I don't think its plastic.
 
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