Originally Posted By: erikc838
My question is: Is the Tac20 brass as hard to form as some make it out to be? I have been doing some reading online and some say to use the form dies and then fire form them but they still lose cases due to wrinkling.
They are stupid easy to make.
When I got my 20 Tac built, I bought the form dies and it was a pain in the azz and the form die pushed the shoulder/body junction back too far, so it had to be blown out again.
Then I tried just running the cases in the FL die.
What you get is a perfectly formed case with a tiny "muffin top" at the shoulder, cuz the body diameter of the 20 Tac is slightly larger than the 223.
You can see the muffin top in the pictures, on the left case. The body fills out on the first firing, and you can blow them out when working up a load. The volume of the formed case is soooo close to the fire-formed case, that you can load them with your final worked up load, and shoot/fire-form them in the field with no loss in accuracy.
I used Redding Dies, and RCBS-II lube with a little on the neck and shoulders. I used Lapua cases.
I annealed them AFTER I formed them.
Originally Posted By: erikc838
While others seem to have no problems with it. Is there a simpler way to do it that I have missed. I also can't seem to find the brass from Dakota online, I guess they stopped making it?
Dakota ordered one large production run (from Lapua), and they are gone.
The advantage of the 20 Tac is you can make the cases out of Lapua brass and have great brass - the biggest draw back of the 204 is all the brass available...
... sucks!!