Originally Posted By: Bob TobergteI'm using a sheep castration ring on forend that shows improvement!
^^THIS^^
Install the castration band to "float" the barrel, then mess with the tension on the forend screw between shot groups to find the sweet-spot. The forend might have a tad bit of wiggle at it's most accurate setting (but I do not care lol).
My gunsmith removed the forend to demonstrate something to me I already knew (barrels easy to swap) before I realized what he was doing. CRINGE! Gotta re-zero/tinker again now.
To the OP: check your twist rate, as they came in both 1:9, and 1:12.
I also performed a trigger lightening technique on mine that involved pulling the trigger while at the same time cocking the hammer hard with the thumb (or something like that) which I can't entirely recommend because of the following: don't go to far/light with this, or you will mess-up the trigger/sear to the point of the trigger getting lighter and lighter with use, thus the need to replace those parts. I got mine down to about 4.5lbs (crisp, though) from who-knows-how-heavy (it was HEAVY!).
My 30-30 Handi with 1:12 twist (most were 1:10) put two in the same hole, with another opening that hole slightly at 100yards with the Federal 125grain factory loading. Working on developing Nosler BT loads now (need more scope than 4X, which is coming up next range trip) that looked promising at 5the initial 50 yard test.