Have CMC triggers on most of mine. Great ratings and all are very crisp. One little oddity on them which I have on all that I have is they are very crisp at a little over 3 lbs. on all but when I measure them on my Lyman electronic trigger pull gauge but when I "pre-set them" as I call it; with the safety on I pull the trigger and it moves slightly to the rear. It now pulls at around 2lbs. 10oz. I can detect no creep either way and this lets me have a lighter pull once I'm set up and lets me carry it with a heavier pull. Strange but all have functioned this way is in 4 different rifles. Also have a RRA 2 stage which is very good and recently bought an elftman trigger which they replaced 3 times with an upgraded model each time. First one went full auto one time when checking POI on an NV scope. Sub 3lb. pull, very crisp and even shorter reset than the CMC triggers. The CMC triggers can be purchased very reasonably on sale.
Favorite AR trigger
- Thread starter prairiefire
- Start date
Originally Posted By: Rock KnockerCall me crazy but my now favorite AR trigger is a stock trigger I polished well and put in a trigger adjuster screw and light weight trigger spring but stock heavy hammer spring. I also bobbed the hammer about half of what I could take off, which did make a difference.
I adjusted the trigger adjuster screw to the point the disconnector will just barely release, which now stops the safety from doing it's normal 90 degree rotation, even better it's only a 45 degree safety rotation and still functions flawlessly, I removed the safety and drilled a tiny new hole for the safety detent to hold onto.
With the polishing, light weight trigger spring and bobbed hammer I would guess my trigger pull is now about half of a full stock trigger and the trigger adjuster screw has removed all creep and the reset is almost non existent.
I like the size and shape of the stock triggers more than any others I've shot also, I'm not a fan of flat triggers or like AR Gold when the trigger has the width of about 3.5 human hairs. And even with some of the spendier triggers, some of their hammers look like chauncy little pieces of sheet metal, bound for light primer strikes or a short life in general.
My buddies have all gotten AR Gold, Velocity or RRA triggers plus I've played with a couple others and I wouldn't trade my trigger for any of them.
Starting with the right LPK I can get 3# measured crisp break with almost no take up using your techniques listed above.
I have a sweet RR 2 stage but much prefer the single stage triggers
I adjusted the trigger adjuster screw to the point the disconnector will just barely release, which now stops the safety from doing it's normal 90 degree rotation, even better it's only a 45 degree safety rotation and still functions flawlessly, I removed the safety and drilled a tiny new hole for the safety detent to hold onto.
With the polishing, light weight trigger spring and bobbed hammer I would guess my trigger pull is now about half of a full stock trigger and the trigger adjuster screw has removed all creep and the reset is almost non existent.
I like the size and shape of the stock triggers more than any others I've shot also, I'm not a fan of flat triggers or like AR Gold when the trigger has the width of about 3.5 human hairs. And even with some of the spendier triggers, some of their hammers look like chauncy little pieces of sheet metal, bound for light primer strikes or a short life in general.
My buddies have all gotten AR Gold, Velocity or RRA triggers plus I've played with a couple others and I wouldn't trade my trigger for any of them.
Starting with the right LPK I can get 3# measured crisp break with almost no take up using your techniques listed above.
I have a sweet RR 2 stage but much prefer the single stage triggers
IdahoSawtooth
Member
The one it came with.
Vect0rstar
Member
Originally Posted By: HcboyDoes anyone use or have a rise armament super sport trigger? I see they are on sale at browells and it looks like a good deal. I’m also in the market for a good and reasonably priced trigger.
I have one of the Rise armament super sports. It's pretty good for the money. They go on sale every once in a while for around $95. I prefer the JMT saber trigger over the rise. The JMT has a little less travel and just feels crisper to me. You can get it for the same or cheaper. Plus it comes with the anti-walk pins.
I have one of the Rise armament super sports. It's pretty good for the money. They go on sale every once in a while for around $95. I prefer the JMT saber trigger over the rise. The JMT has a little less travel and just feels crisper to me. You can get it for the same or cheaper. Plus it comes with the anti-walk pins.
friend of mine in CO has one of these & really likes it:
http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Elftmann-Tactical-AR-15-SE-Trigger-p/elf-se.htm
I like the drop proof feature of the design. They make one for large pins, which would fit my Colt but Joebob's doesn't list that version. Price isn't bad at all.
My Colt is really accurate but I hate the factory trigger. It's clean but breaks at 7+ lbs.
http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Elftmann-Tactical-AR-15-SE-Trigger-p/elf-se.htm
I like the drop proof feature of the design. They make one for large pins, which would fit my Colt but Joebob's doesn't list that version. Price isn't bad at all.
My Colt is really accurate but I hate the factory trigger. It's clean but breaks at 7+ lbs.
LARUEminati
New member
1. Geissele hi-speed
2. Larue MBT
2. Larue MBT
Mr. Poppadopalis
New member
I have 2 Bushmaster AR15 .223.
Bought a trigger pull weight scale.
1 is just over 8lbs and 1 is about 5 1/4lbs.
I just purchased another AR15 .223 Windham Weaponry to use as a 3rd night set up.
Not sure what the trigger pull weight is yet, I have the gun smith doing some extra work on it.
What are you thoughts on me getting 3 triggers with the same weight pull??
Bought a trigger pull weight scale.
1 is just over 8lbs and 1 is about 5 1/4lbs.
I just purchased another AR15 .223 Windham Weaponry to use as a 3rd night set up.
Not sure what the trigger pull weight is yet, I have the gun smith doing some extra work on it.
What are you thoughts on me getting 3 triggers with the same weight pull??
Originally Posted By: cjg_beefI've had very good luck with the JP Enterprise Spring Kits and a Grip Screw Adjuster. Takes a factory trigger and safely reduces the trigger down to about a 3# trigger. Cost's under $30 when all is said and done.
This is what I do. Its pretty easy to get to a smooth reliable 3 Lbs measured on the scale when I start with my favorite LPK . The JP spring kit and grip adj screw kit is $24 delivered when you watch the sales.
This is what I do. Its pretty easy to get to a smooth reliable 3 Lbs measured on the scale when I start with my favorite LPK . The JP spring kit and grip adj screw kit is $24 delivered when you watch the sales.
Mr. Poppadopalis
New member
Originally Posted By: 1FoxOriginally Posted By: cjg_beefI've had very good luck with the JP Enterprise Spring Kits and a Grip Screw Adjuster. Takes a factory trigger and safely reduces the trigger down to about a 3# trigger. Cost's under $30 when all is said and done.
This is what I do. Its pretty easy to get to a smooth reliable 3 Lbs measured on the scale when I start with my favorite LPK . The JP spring kit and grip adj screw kit is $24 delivered when you watch the sales.
Please tell me more. I would love to have 3 ARs with the same poundage of pull on all my night setups.
This is what I do. Its pretty easy to get to a smooth reliable 3 Lbs measured on the scale when I start with my favorite LPK . The JP spring kit and grip adj screw kit is $24 delivered when you watch the sales.
Please tell me more. I would love to have 3 ARs with the same poundage of pull on all my night setups.
Plant.One
Well-known member
https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/JoeBob-s-AR15-Grip-Screw-Trigger-Adjuster-p/jb-triggeradjuster.htm
https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/JP-Enterprises-AR-15-RELIABILITY-ENHANCED-REDUCED-p/jp-jps3.5t.htm
thats the parts list you want. the JP yellow trigger spring lessens the pull weight a bit, the red hammer spring ensures reliability with hard cup nato primers. some folks bob their hammers while they're doing this mod to decrease the lock time on their setups a bit as well.
the grip screw allows you to take up most of the travel on the trigger. Joebobs' has instructions on how to make this adjustment correctly and safely on the website where they sell the grip screw.
Quote
irections for Assembly:
***BE SURE THE FIREARM IS UNLOADED BEFORE PROCEEDING***
Separate the upper receiver from the lower receiver.
Cock the hammer back and set the safety lever to safe. THE LOWER MUST BE ON "SAFE" TO ADJUST CORRECTLY.
Completely remove the set screw from the adjuster by turning the Allen Key CLOCKWISE.
Apply Blue Loctite to the set screw.
Re-Install set screw to original position with hex head.
Remove original grip screw. Make sure not to lose the safety spring & detent!
Place adjuster into grip and tighten thoroughly with a 3/16" Hex Driver
Tighten set screw using 5/64 Hex Key. Do not tighten past stopping point.
At this point the safety lever won't move or will be hard to move. Leave on safe.
Back the set screw out 1/8 turn at a time until the safety lever moves freely again.
Function test the lower checking that hammer, trigger, and safety are all functioning correctly. This is as far as you can adjust the adjuster. Let the loctite dry overnight.
These directions are intended to aid a qualified gunsmith in installation.
The lower receiver must be drilled and tapped all the way through the pistol grip or the trigger adjuster will not be able to thread in completely. Please inspect your lower receiver prior to installation to ensure safe installation.
it wont be amazing like a $200 drop in match trigger, but its the best $30 you can throw at a mil spec trigger group while still maintaining safety margin vs stoning the engagement surfaces, which is risky at best.
they only case harden those surfaces - so the hardened engagement surfaces is only a couple thousandths thick. super easy to remove the hardened surface with a stone/sandpaper trying to smooth it out and now you have a trigger that after an undetermined amount of usage can start to run away on you (doubles, triples, mag dump, etc). Not only is that a safety issue, but it would put you in legal spot - since you'd technically be in posession/manufacture of an unlicensed MG when it does fail on you due to your modifications.
basically stick to changing the springs and the grip screw and you're in the good
you may or may not need a tap to thread the grip screw hole in your lower all the way thru. some mfg's thread the whole thing, others dont. iIrc its a 1/4-28 tap. which unfortunately Joebobs doesnt carry (that i can see) so you'll need to source one from midway or amazon if you dont have it in your tool kit already.
hth
https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/JP-Enterprises-AR-15-RELIABILITY-ENHANCED-REDUCED-p/jp-jps3.5t.htm
thats the parts list you want. the JP yellow trigger spring lessens the pull weight a bit, the red hammer spring ensures reliability with hard cup nato primers. some folks bob their hammers while they're doing this mod to decrease the lock time on their setups a bit as well.
the grip screw allows you to take up most of the travel on the trigger. Joebobs' has instructions on how to make this adjustment correctly and safely on the website where they sell the grip screw.
Quote
irections for Assembly:***BE SURE THE FIREARM IS UNLOADED BEFORE PROCEEDING***
Separate the upper receiver from the lower receiver.
Cock the hammer back and set the safety lever to safe. THE LOWER MUST BE ON "SAFE" TO ADJUST CORRECTLY.
Completely remove the set screw from the adjuster by turning the Allen Key CLOCKWISE.
Apply Blue Loctite to the set screw.
Re-Install set screw to original position with hex head.
Remove original grip screw. Make sure not to lose the safety spring & detent!
Place adjuster into grip and tighten thoroughly with a 3/16" Hex Driver
Tighten set screw using 5/64 Hex Key. Do not tighten past stopping point.
At this point the safety lever won't move or will be hard to move. Leave on safe.
Back the set screw out 1/8 turn at a time until the safety lever moves freely again.
Function test the lower checking that hammer, trigger, and safety are all functioning correctly. This is as far as you can adjust the adjuster. Let the loctite dry overnight.
These directions are intended to aid a qualified gunsmith in installation.
The lower receiver must be drilled and tapped all the way through the pistol grip or the trigger adjuster will not be able to thread in completely. Please inspect your lower receiver prior to installation to ensure safe installation.
it wont be amazing like a $200 drop in match trigger, but its the best $30 you can throw at a mil spec trigger group while still maintaining safety margin vs stoning the engagement surfaces, which is risky at best.
they only case harden those surfaces - so the hardened engagement surfaces is only a couple thousandths thick. super easy to remove the hardened surface with a stone/sandpaper trying to smooth it out and now you have a trigger that after an undetermined amount of usage can start to run away on you (doubles, triples, mag dump, etc). Not only is that a safety issue, but it would put you in legal spot - since you'd technically be in posession/manufacture of an unlicensed MG when it does fail on you due to your modifications.
basically stick to changing the springs and the grip screw and you're in the good
you may or may not need a tap to thread the grip screw hole in your lower all the way thru. some mfg's thread the whole thing, others dont. iIrc its a 1/4-28 tap. which unfortunately Joebobs doesnt carry (that i can see) so you'll need to source one from midway or amazon if you dont have it in your tool kit already.
hth
Rock Knocker
Active member
Bobbing the hammer actually made a bit of noticeable difference to mine also.
Originally Posted By: Mr. PoppadopalisOriginally Posted By: 1FoxOriginally Posted By: cjg_beefI've had very good luck with the JP Enterprise Spring Kits and a Grip Screw Adjuster. Takes a factory trigger and safely reduces the trigger down to about a 3# trigger. Cost's under $30 when all is said and done.
This is what I do. Its pretty easy to get to a smooth reliable 3 Lbs measured on the scale when I start with my favorite LPK . The JP spring kit and grip adj screw kit is $24 delivered when you watch the sales.
Please tell me more. I would love to have 3 ARs with the same poundage of pull on all my night setups.
I start with the Anderson LPK that has the stainless steel hammer and trigger, Not the regular steel phos coated LP kits. The SS hammer comes bobbed in the SS kit. I use a Wyoming stone to lightly polish the contact surfaces. Not wet and dry paper, not a Arkansas stone as they are to course. You want to polish not remove any metal.
When I assemble I use TW25 on the pins, pin bores and all springs and parts, including the sear engagement surfaces. TW25 is about the slipperiest stuff I have found and always keep it on hand for projects. I use yellow JP springs and a grip adjuster screw. One of the dealers in town usually has the LPKs for 38- 40 dollars. When Midway gives me my birthday prices I stock up on spring kits both yellow and red, the grip adjuster is about 13.25 from Rousch shipped. Makes nice reliable triggers but as always be careful.
https://rouschsports.com/shop/uncategorized/ar15-grip-screw-trigger-creep-adjuster/
This is what I do. Its pretty easy to get to a smooth reliable 3 Lbs measured on the scale when I start with my favorite LPK . The JP spring kit and grip adj screw kit is $24 delivered when you watch the sales.
Please tell me more. I would love to have 3 ARs with the same poundage of pull on all my night setups.
I start with the Anderson LPK that has the stainless steel hammer and trigger, Not the regular steel phos coated LP kits. The SS hammer comes bobbed in the SS kit. I use a Wyoming stone to lightly polish the contact surfaces. Not wet and dry paper, not a Arkansas stone as they are to course. You want to polish not remove any metal.
When I assemble I use TW25 on the pins, pin bores and all springs and parts, including the sear engagement surfaces. TW25 is about the slipperiest stuff I have found and always keep it on hand for projects. I use yellow JP springs and a grip adjuster screw. One of the dealers in town usually has the LPKs for 38- 40 dollars. When Midway gives me my birthday prices I stock up on spring kits both yellow and red, the grip adjuster is about 13.25 from Rousch shipped. Makes nice reliable triggers but as always be careful.
https://rouschsports.com/shop/uncategorized/ar15-grip-screw-trigger-creep-adjuster/
shelton573
Active member
I have a velocity in my AR and have installed three others for a couple buddies. All of us are very pleased with them. Mine breaks at about 2.5lb if I remember correctly. They are a real good deal when bought from WC armory for $130 because he has free shipping and throws in your choice of an Anderson parts kit, non-walking pins or a CMMG lower parts kit for an additional $10.