done with my painting!
- Thread starter sendit223
- Start date
4949shooter
New member
sendit,
How did you get the light colored hilites on your gun? Do you use a light colored base coat first?
I would like to do someting like this to my rifle but I already have a base of Duracoat on it.
How did you get the light colored hilites on your gun? Do you use a light colored base coat first?
I would like to do someting like this to my rifle but I already have a base of Duracoat on it.
sendit223
Active member
4949 - you are correct it, a light colored base.
Acetone (brake cleaner), primer, then the kacki base color. Final coat was the darker green/brown color sprayed through some grass. That leaves the kacki highlights.
In fact, I'm headed back right now to put on the final touches on a section I wanted to redo. I'll be spraying the darker color over the kacki base I just put on 20 minutes ago for the small area I taped off.
Acetone (brake cleaner), primer, then the kacki base color. Final coat was the darker green/brown color sprayed through some grass. That leaves the kacki highlights.
In fact, I'm headed back right now to put on the final touches on a section I wanted to redo. I'll be spraying the darker color over the kacki base I just put on 20 minutes ago for the small area I taped off.
4949shooter
New member
Thanks.
It looks great!
It looks great!
sendit223
Active member
4949 -
A few things I've learned (and have been noted by others):
(1) take your time taping. A mistake there negates a lot of good work elsewhere.
(2) practice on something less important first. I learn something every time, and I try to apply those things in subsequent projects.
(3) the distance of the reverse stencil (grass in my projects) from the gun or scope determines the clarity of the shadow effect. Spraying over something leaves an outline, but if that something is very far away from the gun the effect is "fogged" quite a bit. Conversely, a reverse stencil that is tight to the gun leaves a sharper "shadow", or highlight. Neither is right, it just depends on the effect you want to get.
(4) the left and right sides of the gun will be easy. Transitioning to the top will be a little tricky. It can be challenging to hit the top and still leave your prior work intact. That part just takes practice I think....
(5) and finally, take it easy and enjoy the process. Or like the book I read on how to brew your own beer used to say, "Relax. Have a home brew." If you don't like what you see, just put a new layer of base on, wait 20 minutes, and re-stencil.
Have fun!
A few things I've learned (and have been noted by others):
(1) take your time taping. A mistake there negates a lot of good work elsewhere.
(2) practice on something less important first. I learn something every time, and I try to apply those things in subsequent projects.
(3) the distance of the reverse stencil (grass in my projects) from the gun or scope determines the clarity of the shadow effect. Spraying over something leaves an outline, but if that something is very far away from the gun the effect is "fogged" quite a bit. Conversely, a reverse stencil that is tight to the gun leaves a sharper "shadow", or highlight. Neither is right, it just depends on the effect you want to get.
(4) the left and right sides of the gun will be easy. Transitioning to the top will be a little tricky. It can be challenging to hit the top and still leave your prior work intact. That part just takes practice I think....
(5) and finally, take it easy and enjoy the process. Or like the book I read on how to brew your own beer used to say, "Relax. Have a home brew." If you don't like what you see, just put a new layer of base on, wait 20 minutes, and re-stencil.
Have fun!
4949shooter
New member
Thanks, Bro.
I'm gonna talk to my buddy, who did the first paintjob on my gun. I will show him pics of your gun and see if he can do something similar.
I'm gonna talk to my buddy, who did the first paintjob on my gun. I will show him pics of your gun and see if he can do something similar.
sendit223
Active member
Josh -
On the RRA I used Rustoleum gray primer. I used Rustoleum primer because I was using Rustoleum on the whole pattern. I wanted to see if there was much difference between Krylon and Rustoleum, and the colors are slightly different.
Here is exactly what I used on the RRA after taping...
On the Bushmaster I used Krylon gray primer....Krylon primer because I coated with Krylon colors.
After reading as much as I could find on the site I searched and searched for "self-etching primer". I never found it.
One of my sons painted his pistol airsoft gun with primer only (on the slide) and left it. It looks good.
It might be me, but I think the Rustoleum sprays smaller droplets than the Krylon. It is a subtle difference, but I think I see one. Or maybe the ventilation was not good enough!
On the RRA I used Rustoleum gray primer. I used Rustoleum primer because I was using Rustoleum on the whole pattern. I wanted to see if there was much difference between Krylon and Rustoleum, and the colors are slightly different.
Here is exactly what I used on the RRA after taping...
On the Bushmaster I used Krylon gray primer....Krylon primer because I coated with Krylon colors.
After reading as much as I could find on the site I searched and searched for "self-etching primer". I never found it.
One of my sons painted his pistol airsoft gun with primer only (on the slide) and left it. It looks good.
It might be me, but I think the Rustoleum sprays smaller droplets than the Krylon. It is a subtle difference, but I think I see one. Or maybe the ventilation was not good enough!