AR cleaning with Wipe Out Foam bore cleaner

I've seen that same color come out of a barrel or two. Imagine that.
smile.gif


Gonna be interesting to see them after ya get the Wipe Out cleaned off of em. Think they'll be etched or pitted?
 
Evil L.

Take something sharp and scrape the spots with Wipe out and a place with no Wipe Out on it and see if there is any deference of any kind when scraped.

Just a thought to maybe see if Wipe Out did more than discolor it.

DAB
 
Quote:Take something sharp and scrape the spots with Wipe out and a place with no Wipe Out on it and see if there is any deference of any kind when scraped.

I alrady did that very lightly with the tip of a blade. It came right off, it doesn't appear to have had any surface penetration. How about I wipe half the discolered area with a Scotchbrite pad?

Anyway, pennies:

8 hour soak:

DSCN0496.jpg


Wiped with patch:

DSCN0497.jpg


I foamed them again. The anodized disc I wiped off and re-foamed. I saw zero effect (except it looked a little cleaner).
 
Quote:Got any Sweets handy?


I do. Sweets and CR-10 both.

I'll do a separate test with those after this is done.
Sweets will eat copper real fast.
It will also etch your barrel real fast if you leave it in there or don't get it neutralized.
scared.gif

The only time I use it is for the first dozen shots on a new barrel, or to clean one up that's packed with copper.
 
Soaked the pennies overnight (8 hours). No real difference than 4 hours. I'd say if you have a LOT of copper in a barrel, 2 soaks of 4 hours each would get it out better than 1 long soak.

DSCN0500.jpg


I can't see any effect on the anodized aluminum disc. No black on the patch and no discoloration. I added more foam after this pic.

DSCN0501.jpg


I taped the aluminum blocks and rubbed them with a new green Scotchbrite pad, 5 passes (up and back), medium pressure

DSCN0503.jpg


Then 10 passes:

DSCN0505.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Evil_LurkerSoaked the pennies overnight (8 hours). No real difference than 4 hours. I'd say if you have a LOT of copper in a barrel, 2 soaks of 4 hours each would get it out better than 1 long soak.

DSCN0500.jpg


I can't see any effect on the anodized aluminum disc. No black on the patch and no discoloration. I added more foam after this pic.

DSCN0501.jpg


I taped the aluminum blocks and rubbed them with a new green Scotchbrite pad, 5 passes (up and back), medium pressure

DSCN0503.jpg


Then 10 passes:

DSCN0505.jpg



Evil
On the bigger block I think I can still see where the Wipe out was after the scrubbing with Schotchbrite in the bottom picture. OR am I just seeing things.

Good visual test.

DAB
 
Quote: On the bigger block I think I can still see where the Wipe out was after the scrubbing with Schotchbrite in the bottom picture. OR am I just seeing things.

There's still some there. That's a raw extruded surface, however, and the 6061 is one I fly cut (it's pretty much a mirror finish). 7075 is also a lot tougher material, so the Scotchbrite didn't remove as much from the face. What's left appears to be down in the "pores" where the Scotchbrite can't reach.

Here's exactly what it says on the Wipe-Out can:

Quote:(cleaning instructions, then) Do not put oil in the bore. Wipe-Out contains a powerful anti-corrosive that prevents rust

I think maybe that's what we're seeing as a "stain".

New pics, the pennies have been sitting with Wipe-Out on them for another day:

DSCN0520.jpg


Am I starting to see the zinc core through the plating?
I foamed it up again and we'll see tomorrow.
wink.gif


Anodized disc, I see no effect. I foamed it again.

DSCN0519.jpg


 
Last edited:
Well, I wiped it once more and refoamed. After a couple hours, since I saw no sign of copper, I wiped it with a patch again. No blue.

DSCN0522.jpg


It looks dark, so I rubbed the "crust" off with Simi-Chrome polish.

DSCN0523.jpg


The copper plating is gone, it's down to bare zinc, except for a very thin ring around the inside of the rim.

Back of same penny:

DSCN0524.jpg


Side-by-side with same type penny (order is reversed from above pic):

DSCN0527.jpg


The anodized aluminum disc has been soaking the whole time, being re-sprayed as often as the "stripped" penny. I see no change.

DSCN0525.jpg


I'd say it removes copper fairly efficiently and isn't any concern on aluminum, as long as it's anodized. Even if it hasn't been anodized, all it did was leave an oil-looking stain that wiped off and left no visible pitting.
 
Last edited:
Quote:Thanks for the effort and sharing it..

No problem. It ate through an unbroken plating of copper and removed it to bare metal in a fairly short time. I figure that's going to clean a barrel pretty thoroughly with very little work (but quite a bit of down-time).
Never required a brush, though. I'm sold.
wink.gif
 
Just remember that when you foam the boar you also get the gas tube foamed as well. Might be a good idea to blow that out prior to firing it.
 
I took 4 pennies, put on small plate put CR-10 on 2 and Gunslick foaming cleaner on the other two.
let stand for 20 hours ( went scouting for deer ) the CR-10 did not do much but did get quite a bit of blue on a Q-tip. Now the Gunslick stuff had turned into a gel like substance on the pennies and to the eye it was a dark, dark blue almost black. I took a Q-tip and took some off of one penny and smeared it on the plate and it looked like it was paint.

So I do believe the Gunslick is a better product than the CR-10 over all.

Not very scientific but even when I applied both to the pennies the Gunslick reacted faster than the CR-10.

I can not find Wipe Out in the stores I shop at but when I do I will get some and give it a try.

Thanks Evil-L for the great work.

DAB
 
Last edited:
Quote:So I do believe the Gunslick is a better product than the CR-10 over all.


Well, in defence of Sweets/CR-10, they do specify in the instructions that you need to brush them into the bore and not leave them over 15 minutes. I did that with Sweets when I was breaking in my barrel, and it took the copper out quick. I could clean the barrel in about 5 minutes, and foam ain't going to do that.

For home cleanup, the foam is a heck of a lot less work and you don't have to worry about the ammonia/rusting, possible bore damage from the brush, or the stink.

So, if you bench shoot and clean a lot, there's a definite place for the fast-acting cleaners.

It just looks to me like the foam is a lot more gentle, risk-free way to get your barrel clean. It didn't do anything to anodized aluminum, either. I had that disc soaking longer than the penny and you can't even tell it was on there.

Good to go, in my opinion.

Quote:Thanks Evil-L for the great work.


No problem, I learned a lot. I wish I had a little better camera, but I guess the pics came out good enough.


Quote:I can not find Wipe Out in the stores I shop at but when I do I will get some and give it a try.

Same here, I hunted it down at a gun show, but Midway carries it now I see. Maybe Gunslick is just as good, I've never tried it.
 
I have been using CR10 since God knows when. Dumb me I missed where it said to use a brush.
cry.gif
BUT I did see where it said not to leave it soak more than 15 Min.
thumbup.gif


Live and learn.
thumbup.gif


DAB
 
Last edited:
Quote:I can not find Wipe Out in the stores I shop at but when I do I will get some and give it a try.

I couldn't tell much difference between the Gunslick and Wipeout. The Wipeout can is much smaller than the can of Gunslick I have.

Quote:
So, if you bench shoot and clean a lot, there's a definite place for the fast-acting cleaners.


Wipeout makes an accelerator, which I have used, that speeds up the process. The instructions say to run a wet patch of accelerator throught the bore (only one pass) then apply the foam and "it removes twice the copper in half the time". They do warn against using accelerator with any other solvent. I didn't time it, but it did make it unnecessary to let foam sit overnight. The accelerator has a very faint odor, maybe something like varnish or lindseed oil, but very faint.

Regards,
hm
 
Back
Top