243 Blues

Also, I would use Rem 9 1/2 primers, with a starting load of 46.5gr. of RL 26 behind a 100gr. flat base bullet.
 
Been using CCI LR. I don't have any 9 1/2's but I think I have some Winchester and know I have Federal 210M. I'm just puzzled why my groups were so crappy today as opposed to a few days ago. I know taking a rifle in and out of a stock changes things but not that bad. Maybe the torgue settings were different than before causing a bind of sorts. IDK, got me puzzled. I do have some 100 grain flat base Sierra's that I want to try next. Alot heavier than I wanted to shoot but if they work I'll use them.
 
I know I had an issue with a rifle that I changed the stock out in. When i torqued the action screws if I did the front one 1st and then the back one all the way down it would open up my groups. I found that if i tighten down both as evenly as i can and do the final torque starting at about 40in/lbs back to front then it grouped better. Might be worth a try. and if you have either some imr4064 or imr4831 and 70gr bullets and they don't group then send it down the road or rebarrel it. I have yet to find a 243 that doesn't like those powders and bullet combo
 
DDW, I have both powders and bullets to. Lots of 6mm stuff. This is the first of many 243's that I have had a problem with. Usually I can get them to shoot something pretty good. I like the rifle and like the way it looks and handles. It may get sent to Douglas for a new barrel this fall. Not giving up yet. Maybe its just getting broken in and can't get its ducks lined up. LOL
 
Originally Posted By: pyscodogBeen using CCI LR. I don't have any 9 1/2's but I think I have some Winchester and know I have Federal 210M. I'm just puzzled why my groups were so crappy today as opposed to a few days ago. I know taking a rifle in and out of a stock changes things but not that bad. Maybe the torgue settings were different than before causing a bind of sorts. IDK, got me puzzled. I do have some 100 grain flat base Sierra's that I want to try next. Alot heavier than I wanted to shoot but if they work I'll use them.

I like harder primer surface. I think your Fed. 210M may work.
If a rifle isn't pillared and bedded properly, it will make all the difference in the world. A properly pillared and bedded rifle can be taken out of the stock, placed back in the stock, action screws torqued, then the point of impact should be right on the money or at least within 1/2" @ 100yds.
Not all aluminum chassis are created equal. We build walnut stocks with aluminum chassis's that we machine ourselves. There is a particular way and a particular glue that we use to install the chassis. There have been a few that we did that still required bedding. These were mainly on Mauser actions.
 
Originally Posted By: John Heiserthe one thing you should do. put it in the factory stock and torqued it down to the specs.


Did that today.
 
Found a flat of Remington 9 1/2 primers today. I didn't know I even had them. Loaded up 20 rounds of 100 grain Sierra Pro Hunters with IMR 4064. Starting at 35 grains to 36.5 which is book max. I may just shoot 3 shot groups depending on the heat. Not looking for blistering speed as opposed to decent accuracy. Maybe I can get out in the morning when its cooler and see how these work.

I did loosen the stock bolts up and tightened the rear first then the front and lessened the torque settings to 40 inch pounds. Not sure it will make a difference but I got to try something.
 
Setting here thinking.....if the 243 barrel refuses to shoot like I want it to, then I can either sell it or rebarrel it. I like the rifle and already spent the money on a nice scope and stock so I was thinking a Douglas 9 twist in 243, then I got to thinking why not go 243 AI? But then......I already have dies and brass for a 6mmAI, why not go big. I also was thinking instead of Douglas, why not go Pac-Nor? New tooling and cost is only a few dollars more and I've never had a Pac barrel but I know they are good. Pac-Nor turn around time may be longer but I'm in no hurry. Lord knows I got plenty of rifles to shoot. I'm just not sure on what twist to use in the 6AI. I want to shoot light and fast for coyotes but heavy enough if I want to use it for deer. Maybe an 8 or 9????
 
I have a 26” 8 twist on my 6 creedmoor and it runs 70 gr blitz kings extremely well and have ran 110 match kings very well. Blitz kings at about 3750ish if I remember right and 110 SMK at 3200ish over rl26
 
I would go 8 twist in a 24 caliber, but I wouldn't give up on the 243 barrel. It's mechanical and you just need to start at the beginning and go through the steps. Does the magazine box have plenty of movement once the action is tightened down?
 
It seem's like you have run enough loads through it, that, just by luck, several would have shot to your satisfaction.

With everything you've done, I would check the crown, and try a different scope, even though you said you know it's a good one.

Howa's/Vanguards usually shoot well.
 
I'm 99.9% its not a scope issue. It puts the bullets in the general area and take adjustments just fine. Its either loads or barrel. With 100 grain Pro Hunters and 36 grains of IMR 4064 I had one load that showed promise of sorts. First round was high but I really think it was my fault, then 2,3,4 in a half inch but the 5th went high again. Like 2 inchs high up with the first shot. Again, it could have been me as I think my rear sling swivel was hung up on my rear bag. I want to give those one more try. Weather was very hot as well and trying to cool the barrel was short of impossible. I wasn't rushing my shots but 5 shots through a sporter barrel just doesn't work in this heat.
(three shots then cool, then the last two)
 
Often, stocks and bedding blocks are not milled correctly, I can not stress this enough. I would bed the recoil lug for a start at a minimum if you have not already, and a free floating barrel would be a must...you can always add shims later on for a Hail Mary try to fix. While at the range, you can cut up an old credit card for a pressure point, one or two thicknesses...trial and error. When freefloating, I do not like a dollar bill thickness, a business card thickness clearance helps reduce "Barrel Slap" on the stock.

Hot load of IMR 4064/Varget, Rem brass, Fed 210, 80g Sierra is MAGIC as long as the bullet is kissing the lands....jumping....not so much.

Bench technique of holding down the forearm on the front rest is VERY important, shooting off of a bipod leads to Larger groups...You need to hold that forearm down. Rear Bag squeezers have trouble with the technique of holding the forearm down.

Good luck!
 
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I bed the recoil lug area today, Turned out real nice if I do say so,and have at least a business card plus between the barrel and fore-end.
 
Originally Posted By: GCLoads or barrel... but not bedding?


Could very well be a bedding issue GC but I hope I fixed that last night. Going to let it cure real good then give it a try.
 
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I have a CZ 550 in .243 that drove me nuts. It has a 1/10 twist (or at least advertised as such). I never could get that gun to shoot with 100 gr bullets. I also had a bad scope at the time I was testing. Once the scope was fixed and I dropped down to Sierra 85 gr HPs, it all came together and would bughole.
 
Personally I feel a 100 gr anything in a 243 is too much.
If you look at an energy chart you will see a smaller bullet will hit at a higher velocity and energy than a 100 under 500 yards.
 
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