Remington 700 CDL SF Limited 17 Rem Fireball

Raidman

Raidman

New member
I don't have much experience with Remingtons, can someone tell me what a good price for this rifle would be including taxes.
 
I got mine for around $850. I think some guys got their's for less.

But, since they are a limited edition, they may be drying up, so the price might be going up - my dealer can't get any more.

If you want one, just buy it, and don't hold out for the best deal, cuz you may miss the train entirely.

I love mine, it is an excellent rifle.

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This is my lucky day, Pat Garrett from Blue Star just called and is putting me 500 pieces of 17 Fireball brass on UPS today. Now all I need is dies.
 
I mounted a Leupold 6.5 X 20 X 50 Long Range scope on this rifle and headed for the range to shoot it in. The first thing I noticed was it would not eject an empty shell. I only had 1 box of ammo (no dies yet)but I got the gun on at 100 yards. I was cleaning the gun every 3 roulds and still I got several fliers that would be off 2 to 2.5 inches. I used a dollar bill to check the free floating barrel and discovered I couldn't get past where the sling swivel cames up from the bottom of the stock. The third issue is the trigger, it feels like a sled when you pull it. Does anyone else have any of these problems and if so what did you do to resolve them
 
When I bought my 700 CDL Ltd, I didn't have the scope I wanted for it... and it took a while to find one.

During that time, I free floated the barrel, cut four coils off the ejector spring, adjusted the trigger (easy!!), and glass bedded it.

This is the article on the Rem triggers - it's a good one (I wrote it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif )

http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/RemingtonTriggers.asp

You have the new style trigger.

It is easy to adjust - take a 1/16th hex wrench and put it in the screw hole in front of the trigger housing - there are two screws - one is in a square hole near the action, and one is lower down, towards the trigger (away from the action). It is the lower screw that you want to adjust.

Adjust by screwing the screw out, until you have what you like. Mine is around 24 oz.

Put a drop of nail polish on it, so it won't shoot loose.

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Catshooter, thank you very much for all the good info. As I get ready to tear this thing apart and void the warranty I can't help wondering how much sense it makes to buy a Remington for $850.00 and have to rework the whole gun when you can buy a CZ 527 American from Whittaker for $508.00 that looks great, has a great trigger, ejects the shells and shoots great right out of the box. I think I'm missing something here.
 
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Catshooter, thank you very much for all the good info. As I get ready to tear this thing apart and void the warranty I can't help wondering how much sense it makes to buy a Remington for $850.00 and have to rework the whole gun when you can buy a CZ 527 American from Whittaker for $508.00 that looks great, has a great trigger, ejects the shells and shoots great right out of the box. I think I'm missing something here.



Back in the "good ol' days", it was expected that a shooter would task the gun apart and make things the way he wanted them.

Like adjusting the seats in a new car.

Because of lawyers, companies frown on adjusting triggers, but that's no big deal - no gun company will send out a gun with a 24 oz trigger.

And if you need "warranty" work, just adjust the trigger back to 4 ppounds, and you are fine.

The rest of the stuff will NOT effect warranty.

When I bought my CZ 527 American, I did the same work!

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Catshooter, will cutting of 4 coils of the ejector spring fix my ejection problem. I had no trouble adjusting the trigger, its set at 28 ounces and breaks clean. When I removed the stock, I saw the barrel was not floated. It had a point right above the sling swivel about an inch long that the barrel sits in.

BTW I remember the good ole days, that's when you saw a rabbit going across the road and it only had 2 hunters after it.
 
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Catshooter, will cutting of 4 coils of the ejector spring fix my ejection problem. I had no trouble adjusting the trigger, its set at 28 ounces and breaks clean. When I removed the stock, I saw the barrel was not floated. It had a point right above the sling swivel about an inch long that the barrel sits in.

BTW I remember the good ole days, that's when you saw a rabbit going across the road and it only had 2 hunters after it.



Raid...

I don't know the source of your ejection problems, so I can't say it will fix them.

But I ALWAYS cut 4 coils off of the ejector spring on all of my Rem 700, and Winchester Push-feed M-70s.

When this is done, the ejected cases just drop next to the rifle, about 8" away. In the field, I put a boonie hat next to the rifle, and the cases just fill it up - beats chasing them all over the north forty.

It doesn't make any difference whether it is a 17 FireBall, or a 300 Win Mag... same treatment, same result!

Try it... it won't hurt.

And another advantage is... when you eject cases, especially small ones like .223 and 17, you won't get the flat spot on the mouth of the case, that comes from the case being "whacked" against the side wall of the receiver on the extraction stroke!!

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I have 2 .17 Fireballs and both of them have ejection problems. You may have to work the bolt faster than you normally do. It appears that if I work these slow I get cases that flip over and stay in the ejection port area.
 
I sensed that the ejection system on this rifle was lousy and it also deforms the neck of the brass. David Tubbs has a kit on his site that replaces the extractor with a Sako type extractor with a little mill work. I wonder if anyone has tried that and if so what they thought of it.
 
I have installed many "Sako" type extractors on the 700. It works fine when done properly. Not sure who told you "a little mill work" but he probably never did it. I guess compared to some jobs its not alot of work but it is critical to be done very accurately. If the slot is oversized by a few thousandths the extractor will be sloppy and it must be located in the right spot on the bolt face. The hole depth for the spring is also critical. Not much room for error with this install, a few extra thousandths and the whole mess will fly out of the gun. Accurate machine work and spring tension holds it in. There are two reasons to switch to a Sako extractor...actually three, one is because you think you need it and dont really know why. But the real reasons are because the factory one will break if you get a case stuck hard in the chamber. There is no way for it to hop over the rim and let the bolt open. If you get a case stuck so hard that you have to beat it open with a hammer the factory extractor will break. The Sako type will jump the rim or cut thru it. Tactical wise in the field this is a clear advantage. AR-15 extractors can also be installed for this, but you have to remove alot of meat from the bolt. The other is when chambering to a PPC caliber. The base of this cartridge is larger than the small calibers but smaller than the large bolt face so you have to open up a small bolt gun and install the Sako extractor. One other thing regarding the ejector spring...we clip coils off so the case isn't jammed hard to one side of the chamber. Idea here is to just have the case fall out of the receiver when bolting the gun. This lets the case sit in the chamber as close to center and the bullet as concentric to the rifling as possible. The fact that you dont have to chase them and they have no flat on the case mouth are bonuses. I also have the CDL Limited in 17 Fireball and cant get better than a 3 inch group out of it. Haven't had time to figure it out yet, maybe the scope but not likely. Hope you find this info usefull. Good luck.
 
Raid...

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I sensed that the ejection system on this rifle was lousy and it also deforms the neck of the brass. David Tubbs has a kit on his site that replaces the extractor with a Sako type extractor with a little mill work. I wonder if anyone has tried that and if so what they thought of it.



It's not that the ejection system is lousy, it's that the receiver is Waaaaay too large for the cartridge. It is a 308 sized receiver/action.

Ideally, a receiver the size of the CZ527, the Interarms Mini Mauser, or Sako 46/L146 should be used, but Remington can't design a new receiver for one case.

Mine cleanly ejects cases about 95%+ of the time with drawing back the bolt normally, and I can catch them in the air with my right hand as the fly out. Once in a while, one will turn tail and sit on the follower.

As to the Sako extractor... most of the people that I have spoken to that had it done are sorry they did.

I would not spend the money.

---

msinc

My CDL Ltd shoots fairly well. But I should add that I haven't owned a 17 cal since I had two of the original 17 Rem BDLs in 1980-1982, and I hated them!!

So my base of reference is kinda non-existent. My rifle gives most groups in the 5/8"-3/4" range. A few go over 1", and a small percent are ~1/2".

I am still working up loads, playing with powders, and getting to know the cartridge. I was not impressed with factory ammo, and I'm not impressed with factory cases.

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I have been reading about this ejection problem with some interest, is this also problem with the Model 7 ?



It is with ALL of the large action rifles that shoot tiny cartridges.

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Catshooter, I have 5 17 cal rifles and they all shoot great. I have shot 1/4 inch groups with my Cooper and CZ at 100 yards and they are exactly as they came from the factory. I don't want to run Remington down because I have had very limited experience with them and based on this gun I will keep it that way.
 
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