There is no way to tell for certain if the load will be accurate in your rifle. Your rifle may or may not like the combo. For the load data, check the Hodgdon website.

the only way to really know what your gun will like and be safe with is to do a proper load developement and shoot a series of groups of slowly increasing charges while watching for pressure signs as you work up.

if you're a new reloader, i strongly suggest you invest in a reloading manual. THere's a lot more to reloading that just repriming a case and stuffing a bullet over some powder that you found as "joes best load ever" online.

since you're looking at using nosler bullets, you can find some of their data online
http://load-data.nosler.com/load-data/22-250-remington/

or even better pickup a copy of Nosler's Reloading guide 8th edition.

its going for around $26 right now.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Nosler-Reloading-Manual/2223142.uts

there's more to a reloading manual than min and max powder information and other load data.

good luck and stay safe!

I'm just getting into reloading, and after reading the three major reloading handbooks (Nosler, Hornady and RCBS, I purchased maybe a little more than the basics, and I am working on a reloading room. I am single, 68 yrs old, and I have the luxury of an adequate space in a tool storage shed that I have insulated and put in an A/C unit. It gets pretty humid here in Fla!
My questions are many, but I'll start with a bench layout...those of you that have been doing this awhile have probably drilled several holes while moving presses and chargers, etc. I don't want my bench to look like Swiss cheese, so while a lot of this is personal preference, for a right handed person is there some recommendation as to where to locate the major elements???

Thanks so much for the list. It makes things very understandable...wish I lived in ID, or you lived in Florida, I'd like to lean over your shoulder at the bench. Also great to see your kids are involved in your hobby. I printed it off and will keep it at my new bench, until I get a routine down...Again thanks for taking the time to share...

Thanks so much for the list. It makes things very understandable...wish I lived in ID, or you lived in Florida, I'd like to lean over your shoulder at the bench. Also great to see your kids are involved in your hobby. I printed it off and will keep it at my new bench, until I get a routine down...Again thanks for taking the time to share...

For a newby please explain ladder loading...???

Great thread!!! Great info new guy's read and read!!!

my opinion I believe a chronograph is a must!! it tells a lot only seen it mentioned a few times..

If you read most problems (yes I said most not all) can be solved by using moderate loads yotes can't side step 3200 fps vs 3700 etc

OAL gauge is a great tool read and read on its use...

I read one guy saying that treat crimped primer brass like regular brass please correct me if I'm wrong but I strongly disagree if you don't use a primer pocket de-crimper on crimped primer brass the edges of some primers can catch and fold edge of primer over are very hard to see at times mostly only way to tell by feel while priming...

There was very little discussion on crimped brass..and there is a lot of crimped .223 mil brass out there

My two cents...

I am stealing your stuff. That is golden. John Holliger says there are "two things a high power shooter shouldn't own, a borescope and a chronograph". Pressure signs are just that.
I think the most important thing for me over time has been the keeping of records. I have started writing the date, load data, cartridge overall length and how many rounds I have loaded. If you are shooting one rifle in one caliber you keep track of amount of rounds through a tube. And if you had an accurate load but forget what it was you can go back to it. A notebook just for loading tab it for your calibers and it is gold. If you croak your kids can steal your load data instead of starting over. And as we age we need records. Trust ME!
Old powders of the same nomenclature are not the same as they were 20 yrs ago. You could load old 4831 and have a mild load. New stuff has more energy and will make a bomb out of a trusted load. Just my 2 cents for the day.

Sorry about that. My reply was for Buzz Be.

Hello ALL.NAME IS RICHARD3 AND I HOPE I'M ON THE CORRECT SITE TO ASK MY QUESTION.I'VE BEEN RELOADING FOR ALMOST 4.6 YEARS AND HAD A-LOT OF FUN SHOOTING TARGETS.CAN SOMEONE HELP ME WITH THIS? I'M SHOOTING A RUGER PRECISION .308 AND HAPPENED ON 180 EA 150 GRAIN HORNADY ROUND NOSE #3035 BULLETS FOR A VERY NICE PRICE.I USE HODGDON BLC-2 FOR MOST OF MY .308+ LOADS.MY LEE,LYMAN 49 AND HORNADY BOOKS ALL SAY C.O.A.L. IS 2.800"BUT ON A 150 JACKETED BULLET.I USE THE LOAD DATA AT HODGDENS ALOT AND MIKE SAID 2.520". VERY LITTLE DATA ON-LINE ON THIS BULLET AND POWDER COMBO.I'VE SHOT A-LOT OF 165/168 AND 125 GRAIN FMJ/BT/HP WITH BLC-2.CAN SOMEONE HELP CONFIRM THE 2.520 C.O.A.L.I'VE SEEN MAYBE 2 OTHERS REFER THAT THIS IS CORRECT.DON'T WANT A BOOMER.ANY HELP I WOULD APPRECIATE.NEW TO THE FORUM WORLD.THANKS MUCH.R3

hAS aNYONE sEEN mY cAPSLOCK kEY?


hornady's 9th, pg 416, shows 2.520" for the hornady #3035 150gr Interlock RN, however there is no data for BLC-2.

Very useful thread! I have learned a lot.

A straightforward and quick step to perform on each cartridge case can make a big difference too. By chamfering and deburring your case mouths before bullet seating, you can ensure that the bullet seats smoothly and leaves the case uniformly.

Follow Berger bullets seating depth testing procedure during load development.