I just bought a R-15 223 want to know what bullet type to use fot coyote.
I am going to reload . just need a good bullet type.

Branden:

Typically, you can expect 6-10 loadings...however, this varies due to how "hot" the loads, how tight/sloppy the chamber is [although the chamber is within the 6-7 thousandths range of SAMMI specs], whether you neck size only and full length re-size on the 4/5th reloading, how old the brass is....etc.

For the .222, the case necks are on the thin side, so sometimes they split before other calibers....

As a rule, I have a max of 1 grain below the manual max, and sometimes at 2 grains under the book max if accuracy and killing power is there anyway...that provides an additional pressure safety margin.

I work up my "maximum" i.e. hunting loads in the hot summer months of OH and thus, they are fine all year around. Consider powders that are NOT temperature sensitive...the relatively new ramshot line is one...XTerminator shoots great in the .222 and .223 (I load for both) Western powders which owns Ramshot and Alliant, have a very comprehensive, and FREE reloading manual with lab tested loads... so call or email them...they are great folks there at Western and will mail it in a day/two of speaking with you.

As to primers, I have stuck with CCIs over the years cause they were always available when I started reloading back in 1983. But, all brands are good.

Been reloading 243, 270,30-30 & 300winmag for years but just bought my first 223. Bullet diameters have me a bid confused. I assume .222 diameter is a 222 swift, .223 is Rem and .224 is a Weatherby. I see very small assortment of .223 bullets listed and lots of .224. Does the .223 AR-15 shoot only the .223 bullets or does it shoot the .224 bullets.

The .223 shoots .224

Thanks freefloat. I just went and got into the reloading manuel and looked it up.

Nic 58 makes a very good point and I will repeat it. Whatever you do, keep your mind on what you are doing. No wife distractions, no kids, no animals, just you and your reloading bench.

And always, always establish a defined routine and perform your various reloading steps in the same manner, every time. Check your simple beam scale for accuracy (zero adjust and weight setting) frequently and do not rely on the accuracy of electronic scales. Electronic scale accuracy can be effected by static electricity, fluorescent lights, ambient temperature, magnetic fields and other influences.

Keep a pad and pen handy and record all of the details of everything you do when building a load. Number your recipes and number your targets before going to the range. Test and record all results and file your 8.5 X 11 targets in a loose leaf binder for reference later.

Use care when handling primers and if a primer gets stuck somewhere, be very careful when removing it, especially if it is in close proximity to other primers.

Lyman has a pretty good basic reloading book. Buy it and read it. Lastly, you don't need to buy all of the big bucks brands of stuff. Lee makes a very inexpensive powder measure that is accurate and their Lee Auto-Prime tool works great too. Many of my die sets are from Lee and I have built very accurate rounds from them.

Don't always strive for the hottest load. Most times, the more moderate loads are the most accurate. They are a lot easier on your rifle barrel's throat too.

Handloading for Competition (making the target bigger) by Glen Zediker is a must have. So is Precision Reloading and Shooting Handbook by Fred Sinclair (Sinclair Intl.) Get a Loadbooks USA for your caliber in addition to a few reloading manuals. Lots to swallow there for a new-bee but great reference material. I say if at all possible, have someone show you how to reload first to get the basics. I like keeping a detailed journal as well as an Excel spreadsheet to document load success as well as other things like Trim-to-length, Headspace, Seating depth, COAL, etc. I bought a labeler and label the trim lengths on my trimmer for all my calibers, same with die slots for my Redding T-7, powder bottles, bullet/tool bins. Great advice on never throwing away test targets. Big mistake, almost as bad as selling a gun and wishing you had it back!

Alot of great posts here. i just purchased my reloading rig last night. I will be doing a lot of reading before i get going here and am sure I will have questions,but it looks like i wont have a hard time finding the answers.

im lookin to start reloading my 7mm Rem. Mag. any tips?

i bought the charge master 1500 and i think its great. Very quick and accurate.

Two good bullets for the .223 are the 52 gr. Speer HP and 50 gr. Sierra Blitz.

Also good in 40 gr. is the Sierra 40gr. HP

All three are generally "pelt friendly".

I will add to this. Do not zero your scales periodically. Zero your scales and calipers EVERY TIME YOU RELOAD OR MOVE YOUR SCALES FROM THEIR ORIGINAL POSITION AND CHECK THE ZERO FREQUENTLY.

Keep a routine down. Check the chambering in your rifle BEFORE you seat primers. Finally, IF YOU ARE POURING POWDER AND CHECK THE CASES YOU ARE SEATING THE BULLETS. FOLLOW THE ADVISE ON THIS FORUM. These guys know what they are talking about. I f you have question, stop and ask. Better safe than sorry.


RTLOF(TONY)

Reel Lost: All 22 center fire cartridges uses .224" BUT there are a couple that don't. The odd sizes are .222 that is used in 22 Jet shells that was a 357Mag necked to 22cal. used in S&W revolvers. The .223 bullets were for pre ww-2 22 Hornets that used 22 rimfire barrels. and the 22 Savage(303 Savage case necked down) uses .228 bullets( why? I don"t know.

Lots of good information here and some that should be taken with a grain of salt.

I pick up brass at the range, lots of high rollers who do not have time to reload use the clubs ranges. One can spot brass that is past it's experitation date with a bent paper clip and a good cleaning.

I do the powder drop and install the bullet and seat right then before going to a different case. No cases get a double charge that way. I'm old and slow and have all my body parts still.

Load well away in a scary part of the homestead from the family. You can sit on the couch for hours and hours twiddling your thumbs and no one says boo to you. Turn on the TV, Start reading,listening to the radio or start reloading then they (wife and kids) have all types of junk they need you for. If they can't see you all is well.

Keep plenty of loading blocks on hand so you can keep all cleaned and ready to go brass handy when you start reloading.

MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN AND INSPECT EVERY PIECE OF BRASS YOU ARE GOING TO RELOAD. Then inspect it again after you have reloaded it.


Want advice on the load for your 7 mm mag? Buy several reloading manual and do your own work up never trust a word of mouth or printed on a forum load. Typeing errors happen every day on the internet. Remember the thing in school to pass the message along to your neighbor and the end result was nothing like the orginal message?

Do you own work up and be safe.

I started reloading so long ago powder came in wax papper cans and kegs. Primers came in waxed cartons too. Herters was a bigger outdoor product supplier than Cabelas is today.

I keep records of my reloads and have Remington brass for the 243 and 308 that have been thru the press 20 plus times. Ya like me they are old and slow and accrite.

Al

alleyyooper:

Yes, and by God we love you for it! It's nice to have some one around here who knows something....