So I put together a new upper earlier this year, it’s a 16” fluted ballistic advantage 1:8 premium barrel, from day one it would throw the first shot lower and right of the rest of the group, usually around 1 1/2” away, after the first shot the rest of the 4 shots would be very good, always sub Moa. I have tried around 7 different loads and different bullets, some factory match ammo and some quality hand loads, always the same results. I always used the bolt release to feed 1st round from mag. I then tried shooting 5 shots all from a single load using the bolt catch each round and the group opened up quite a bit, almost 2 moa. I have also tried changing the side of the mag that the first round fed from, same problem. So on the build I faced the upper and used shim stock to tighten up the barrel fit, (as I do with every build). I used a quality free float handguard, torqued correctly, nothing is in contact with the handguard, aero adjustable gas block, I have always ran it suppressed. I have switched optics, I have changed gas tubes, I have changed bolts, I have used a different lower with a different buffer system. I have shot it with the barrel both clean and dirty, I have shot with a bipod, with a front rest, with a lead sled, all the same results. I called b.a. and they had no input at all. I have come to the conclusion that I will be best off getting a different barrel and moving on but I’m one of those guys that has to know why something isn’t working. Any ideas? I’m at a loss.

It sounds like a dud unfortunately, you've tried everything I could have thought of, and these days ammo is more precious than barrels lol. BA won't take it back?

Well I haven’t pushed it with them but when I spoke to them they were like “well it shoots sub moa with the rest of the shots so it’s probably not the barrel”. Like I said I will probably move on to a different barrel but I kind of agree that why is it only the first shot?

Try shooting a group without the can.

https://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=119106

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/suppressor-first-round-drift.88646/

Tell us about your handloads. BA barrels can shoot with the right handload. I have a BA, 556, 1/7, in 14.5. It really like TAC and 8208.

What weight bullets, powder, and primers?

Do you run a good trigger?

I would not give up.

TC

I have tried 60 vmax varget loads that shoot 1/2” in my Rainer barrel, also 53 vmax benchmark loads, there again very accurate in other rifles, 55 vmax factory ammo, 69 smk quality loads, several others that are all good quality factory and hand loads. Cci 400’s and some loads with wsr primers, lc brass. Yes quality triggers on both lowers that I tried.

Can you run a ladder test with 60 gr vmax, wsr, and Varget? I would start with that and see what your barrel likes. Once you find a load, I would consider shooting 3 shot groups without your suppressor.

Even if its a 556 barrel, I would run the test with .223 remington data. After, you can see if it likes 556 data.

TC

Try it with no can and run your tests. Dump the idea of 5 shots all from a single load using the bolt catch each round..your introducing way too much shooter error. I don't know if its first round pop/harmonics/gasses filling the can, but I too have had this happen (not as extreme poi shift) to a build of mine. I take it off its gone,I put it on its back.

How about switching from CCI400 TO CCI450?

I havent had this problem or shot with suppressors but 450s and with the added powder the magnum primers allow ended up being more consistent for me.

Try this, My very first suppressor Gem-tech HVT always threw the first shot about 3/4 from the rest of the group. I always thought it was because the keyhole baffle design was not staggered. I did a lot to figure out the problem, even sent the can back and had the QD cut off and direct thread implemented. Still didn't work. I don't have that can anymore.

I've also seen barrels do the same dang thing, cold bore was always off from the rest, I don't have time for an inaccurate barrel, so they are now Coon clubs. Ultimately depends if you want to try different powder, bullets, primers, seating depths, etc. or if you should just drop in another barrel.

I appreciate all the help guys, I will try it without the can and see how it shoots

Have you tried to take the bolt out of the carrier, and run it back and forth to check interference with the gas tube? With most AR-15's the bolt will go back and forth in the upper receiver like the gas tube did not even exist.

I just ran into this problem...... With an AR308

Could you possibly have a bent or tweaked expander ball/de-capping pin assembly on your reloading dies?

I also just ran int this problem als.....



How do you do this?? I have a barrel that i believe could use some type of treatment like this. I know nothing of this type of thing though.

I had a build that gave me problems with poi shift. 1.The barrel nut would contact the receiver. 2. This very popular handguard required 75 ft lb of barrel nut torque, my automotive shop torque wrench was out of cal. It was only torqued to about 42 lb. I had 0.030 removed from the nut, calibrated my wench. No problem since.

Like he says!! Re-do it!!

Update…. I installed the barrel into a different receiver with a different bolt and used a different handguard system, same results, 1 st shot lower and right by 1”-1 1/4” and the next 4 shots were stacked tight, tried 2 different loads with same result, this was shooting suppressed. I removed the can and shot 5 shots without any muzzle device, the group was about 1.5”-1.75”. I adjusted the gas a bit because it was still set for suppressed, I installed a linear comp and shot 2 shots touching and the 3 rd was 1” down. I’m pretty sure I’m done with this barrel

Is that bbl coming up for trade?

TC

They are finally sending me a replacement barrel

Please let us know how the new barrel works!!