1/2" supressor threads on a .308 AR?

I threaded my Marlin 336 30-30 1/2x28 for my SiCo Omega because the barrel wasn't thick enough for anything else without shortening the barrel and mag tube. It's only for hunting and low volume shooting at the range so it's fine. I would've preferred a larger thread size though. I have both .30 cal and 5.56 end caps and 5/8x24 and 1/2x28 direct thread mounts that I simply swap out between rifles. Only takes a minute with the tools provided.

Originally Posted By: Arizona BushmanAs a machinist who threads barrels quite regularly, I wouldn't undertake this project for one reason; THERMAL EXPANSION.

Not only will you run the risk of concentric irregularities under high heat usage, but your chances of permanently locking two dissimilar metals together will increase exponentially.

Not worth my reputation If I weld a guy's $300 barrel to his $1000 can.


That's why you use a marine grade non-metallic high temp anti-seize on the threads like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRT...pf_rd_i=desktop
 
Originally Posted By: Arizona BushmanBuy the CORRECT $99 adapter and sleep better doing so.....

You only quoted 75% of what I said.........CNN MIGHT BE HIRING.

I would also recommend reviewing page 14 of your Omega Manual.

 
I'm not arguing to not use the correct adapter. Obviously I left out the last sentence because it was IRRELEVANT to what I was replying to (i.e. heat/dissimilar metals/welding). OR were you referencing the mushrooming of the muzzle on a large caliber over time with too thin of threads? What about the Omega manual?
 
Last edited:
There are a couple of reasons that this is ill advised. First, there is the safety factor. Yes, YOU might know that you have the same thread pitch that is used on the .223/5.56mm caliber and that your rifle is a larger caliber. Someone else may not have that knowledge and could inadvertently attempt to use a small bore suppressor on a large bore rifle.

Second, as Bushman stated, thermal expansion causing concentric irregularity is a major concern. The thinner barrel/threads can sag due to heat build up and then you run the risk of the suppressor not being properly supported and getting a baffle strike because the concentricity of the bore and the threads is out of alignment.

Third, as Bushman stated, you can get dissimilar metals that will weld together. Some suppressor manufacturers specifically do not want people using anti-seize lubricants as it can cause other issues such as corrosion.

Sometimes it just boils down to a case of just because you can doesn't mean you should.
 
Originally Posted By: roky0702That's why you use a marine grade non-metallic high temp anti-seize on the threads like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRT...pf_rd_i=desktop

My biggest concern with advising a customer to use ANTI-SEIZE is the fact that they may over-tighten a fastener resulting in stripped threads. Once again, who will get blamed? The customer who paid for a service, or the small business owner working on minimal margins of profit and word of mouth advertisement??

Also; I would never advise beyond what a suppressor manufacturer states in their OEM manuals. SilencerCo specifically states "Mounts should be periodically cleaned with any standard gun cleaning solvent and a brush to remove any carbon or fouling" (pg 14) Meaning, they have a very basic expectation of the end user installing their mounts onto clean and dry threads. SilencerCo also provides a torque specification on (pg 8) of "Hand tighten only" On the next page they advise against the use of crush washers and on the proceeding page they offer another torque specification for the ASR mount to suppressor body of 35 ft/lbs. Once again using clean, dry threads and " taking care not to cross thread".

For some reason, they seem to be highly concerned with the proper mating of their product to a high powered firearm.
 
Back
Top