Changing Calibers on a Dillon Press

soup

Member
Folks ,

It seems the 550B is going to be my choice rather than the XL650 .
I don't think I load enough of any one caliber to get the most out of it . I'm wondering how long it takes to change over from one caliber to another . Are there any items I should buy for the change over when I buy the press and how about accessories what's worth the $$$ or should I buy some items aftermarket.
I plan to reload 9mm-38/357-40sw-45acp and possibly .223 Remington using Varget , but I may still load the 223 on my Redding because I'm told Varget won't meter consistently .

Thank you all in advance for your time and knowledge sharing .

Semper Fi,
Soup
 
Soup the 550 is a great press. Looking back if I can offer a suggestion from my experience, when you get the press take a little extra time to just look it over good and get to understand how it works. Take your time setting it up. Don't buy anything extra for the press until you get a feel for it just the way it came. One big mistake I made is once I started to load I tried to load to fast because you think a progressive is supposed to go fast for you. Once I slowed down the speed came and Loading was much more enjoyable on the press. Changing cartridges for loading is easy. I always take some extra time to clean, inspect and lube things at that time. I did buy a complete priming system, one for small and one for large primers. Mine works fine with a lot of powders others say don't work well for them. Look into every case for correct powder level before you set the bullet. Have fun with your new press.

Esprit de Corps
Since I'm just a Army guy
 
it doesn't take long. it takes longer if you have to swap the primer system, but even that doesn't take long.

the single hassle-reducing thing I did was to buy a powder measure for each size charge bar, so I don't have to swap out the bars, I just pick the measure with the right sized bar & adjust the bar. In my case that means 3, a small, large and extra large.

a small & large should be all you need, unless you add a larger capacity rifle to your list.
 
you do need a toolhead and powder die for each caliber.

you do not always need a complete conversion kit. for example, 30-06, 270, 308, 243 and 22-250 all have the same case head, so once you buy a conversion kit for one, you have the shell plate & locator buttons covered. you still need the correct powder funnel for each one, this goes inside the powder die.

dillon does sell the individual parts, just call & tell them what you're doing & they'll get the right part to you for it.

my 550 came with both large & small primer systems, so I don't know about having to buy an extra one of them.

it came with one powder measure that included a small & large charge bar. they also make an XL or maybe they call it a magnum & I think an XS small one. bottom line is that unless you're loading a high enough volume to justify ti, you don't need a dedicated powder measure for each tool head. But swapping the charge bars out is a bit of a hassle IMHO, so over time I bought one for each size bar I needed to use & as noted, just move them around as needed.

Dillon has videos on their web site & I'm sure you can find a bunch on youtube. Make sure you know what you're doing, don't assume. If you aren't clear either find a video that clearly shows what you need to do or just call tech support & they'll walk you through it.
 
I use my 550 for 357, 44 mag, 45acp and 223,(I run CFE 223 so it meters well).

Each set of dies has its own toolhead and powder hopper, so swapping them out is quick, unless as stated above, you're going to switch primer size.

I keep a piece of paper in the powder hopper when not in use that lists the last powder used in it and what the charge weight was. I weigh out the first charge for verification and call it good.

Something I do if I have to stop while reloading on the Dillon is to stop with my cases up in the dies, not down. It will help you avoid a double charge on a light target load or case totally void of powder.

Inline make a light that will drop into the center hole of the toolhead which makes it much easier see down into your cases.


Here Kitty Kitty


 
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These guys are all spot on! I reloaded for forty years on my Rock Chucker press and love and still use it, but a few years ago I wanted to buy some bulk "if the sht hits the fan" survival ammo.
Prices were so high and being in Mass. no one would ship to me.
I could buy the supplies though, so I bought a Dillon 550B with a separate powder dispenser and head for each caliber 9mm, 45 acp, and .223.
I have never looked back, I absolutey love my set up and have cranked out a lot of ammo with it.
P.S. I use Varget for one of my .223 coyote rounds spot checking a little here and there find it within tolerance.
Good luck and welcome to team Dillon!!
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-550B-Primer-Track-Bearing-Plate-W-Ball-Bearing-4th-Generation-SALE-/231783630462?hash=item35f761867e:g:3C0AAOSwv0tVQX3I
This is probably the best thing besides an led light I've added to my press .Since I've added this I've never had a flipped or missed primer.I also put a nut on the top of the primer rod Not sure of the size but the added weight keeps your primers feeding perfect and the nut slides on and stays put on the rod thinking its a 3/4 ".I added a nut on to my square deal also.
 

Quote: Something I do if I have to stop while reloading on the Dillon is to stop with my cases up in the dies, not down. It will help you avoid a double charge on a light target load or case totally void of powder.


That's a good tip. Been loading for nearly 30 years on Dillons; just proves you can teach an old dog new tricks.

Have two presses and multiple measures. I did manage to figure out the note in measure hopper by myself, which is another good idea.
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Quote: P.S. I use Varget for one of my .223 coyote rounds spot checking a little here and there find it within tolerance.


Loaded thousands of rounds and with practice it is not difficult to throw +/- .1 gr. charges on the Dillon w/H4895. Have not used Varget, but cut is not much different, so should work equally as well.

Regards,
hm
 
Originally Posted By: 70sdiverhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Dillon-550B-Primer-Track-Bearing-Plate-W-Ball-Bearing-4th-Generation-SALE-/231783630462?hash=item35f761867e:g:3C0AAOSwv0tVQX3I
This is probably the best thing besides an led light I've added to my press .Since I've added this I've never had a flipped or missed primer.I also put a nut on the top of the primer rod Not sure of the size but the added weight keeps your primers feeding perfect and the nut slides on and stays put on the rod thinking its a 3/4 ".I added a nut on to my square deal also.

Roger that 70sdiver! I put one of those on my press also, makes the primer feed as smooth as glass...
 
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I have had issues with spent primers not making it through the chute properly. It's a minor inconvenience & never disrupted loading for me and to be fair, I never bothered to call & ask about it. I did happen on a couple of videos just now, so clearly I'm not the only one:







 
and I really just have to get one of these lights. This is the same one I linked earlier. Be sure to read the comments about installing the side light so it doesn't get hit during use:



 
several videos on youtube to show you how to do most everything with it (I do recommend a tool head stand for each tool head you use):



 
The light is nice to have. I've had mine for about 2 years and it was only offered with a single light that is placed in the tool head.

A single or double light is a real improvement over any room light source you would have available.


Here Kitty Kitty
 
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I bought two assemblies of the Lite Tech brand on Amazon,that Stu posted, two lights, switch with plug and transformer, well worth the money, a year ago.
As I said I gave one to my buddy, he was so happy he gave me a couple of brand new Magpul P mags!!
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Stu, thanks for the great vids, this thread should be a sticky, given the great content!
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