Direct Thread or QD?

WhoCares

WhoCares

New member
I just got my first suppressor recently. A Griffin DT Model. First time at the range and I shot the end of the can up. Hole on the exit end looked like a clover leaf. Sent it back and they said the can fit on their fixture perfectly so it had to be that I did not tighten it properly on my barrel. They said that the can had rotated 180 degrees during firing and that is what caused the damage. Weird thing was, is that it was just as tight after firing as it was before I shot it. They also said thats why they make a quick detach model. They said the QD uses a torqued part on the barrel so when u screw on the suppressor it is always aligned and torqued properly. Going to cost me $200 to fix a new suppressor.

I hand tightened the can as tight as I possibly could without using tools. I only fired 10 rounds before I figured out something was wrong. I could not get on paper and the shots were all over the place. Anyway just to be safe I sent all my threaded barrels back to Mike at DTech to have them checked and re-threaded if necessary

Anyone ever had this happen to them with a Direct Thread suppressor.
 
No, I haven't had that happen and I have 2 suppressors and about 9 threaded rifle barrels. Did the can shoulder properly when you tightened it? I prefer direct thread over qd models, just my preference.
 
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Originally Posted By: WhoCares

I hand tightened the can as tight as I possibly could without using tools. I only fired 10 rounds before I figured out something was wrong. I could not get on paper and the shots were all over the place. Anyway just to be safe I sent all my threaded barrels back to Mike at DTech to have them checked and re-threaded if necessary

Anyone ever had this happen to them with a Direct Thread suppressor.



I've had some dick ups regarding cans, the whole end cap blew off, a side blew out, etc... It's going to happen if you shoot a lot of cans... BUT, your issue is different especially if you say it was just as tight as it was when you mounted it... I can hand torque all my direct threads and be confident they are tight and won't unscrew, DEFINITELY not before I get 10 rounds down em.
Bummer, hope they treat you well!
 
Griffin is denying any responsibility and putting it all on me. That's ok, if I did something wrong. They are charging $200 to fix the can. I was hoping for a little love here but they were not willing to help a guy out. The upper I was using was purchased used here on this forum a while back. It was a DTech upper and I have no direct knowledge of who threaded the barrel. I sent it, along with several others to DTech for inspection and possible re-threading if Mike finds something wrong. I haven't heard anything back as of yet.
 
Causal "observation"... If it clover leafed, that would indicate to me that something was for sure loose or at least moving. If it was just out of alignment, wouldn't the miss-aligned shot go in the same place? Seems to me that the can was miss-alligned AND rotating as shots when down the tube.
 
Here is what the end of the can looked like. When I screwed it onto the barrel it was tight, and after firing and letting it cool down it was tight as well.

image.jpg1_zps1yffsaqy.jpg
 
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IMO, with the information provided it looks to me like a baffle or core was loose inside the can, (Manufacturing defect).

No matter what that sucks buttocks.
smile.gif


 

That is tough, something I hope not to experience once I get a can.

No doubt threading should be done by a qualified gunsmith, and one that does a lot of it would be better.

This brings up another subject, and WHOCARES, I don't mean to hijack your thread. It would be nice to hear of reliable gunsmiths to do threading work. I have been searching here for someone to do it. I found one in a nearby town, but honestly I don't trust him after I saw some work he did to another guy's gun not long ago. Getting the threads right will be very important.

If anyone wants to list gunsmiths that do good work, then I'm sure we all can benefit from it.

 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
That is tough, something I hope not to experience once I get a can.

No doubt threading should be done by a qualified gunsmith, and one that does a lot of it would be better.

This brings up another subject, and WHOCARES, I don't mean to hijack your thread. It would be nice to hear of reliable gunsmiths to do threading work. I have been searching here for someone to do it. I found one in a nearby town, but honestly I don't trust him after I saw some work he did to another guy's gun not long ago. Getting the threads right will be very important.

If anyone wants to list gunsmiths that do good work, then I'm sure we all can benefit from it.



Great point.. please share. Shipping to a good smith, is a lot cheaper than fixing bad work.
 
I seen that this weapon was going to DTECH to be checked. He does good work, I imagine if he did the threads they are ok. He threads all kinds of upper he builds for people here on this site. It could be someone else threaded his upper, don't know right now.

I use GAP in Kansas City for all my high power weapons. Most important question to ask a smith is if he uses thread pitch gauges or go, no go gauges. If he says he threads to your can threads run very fast and don't look back. They must be cut to standard thread specifications and not threaded till they thread on another set of threads.

 

Good thing to know 3D. I wasn't aware of that, so the gunsmith should cut the threads to a standard using the guages you mentioned. The gunsmith I mentioned previously said he would need my can and me there with it when he does the work, so it sounds like he will try to cut the threads to the can itself. Not sure if that is correct or not, or if he should be able to cut the threads without me having to be there with can in hand.

Is there any reason for me to be present at the gunsmith's shop, with the can, in order for him to cut the threads? What about fitting the can to the barrel?

Yep, Mike at Dtech does great work, so if he threaded it then I have confidence it's right. Mike built a 6x45 upper for me, as well as some trigger work on a lower unit. It's a very accurate outfit.

 
Originally Posted By: 3DHUSKERI seen that this weapon was going to DTECH to be checked. He does good work, I imagine if he did the threads they are ok. He threads all kinds of upper he builds for people here on this site. It could be someone else threaded his upper, don't know right now.

I use GAP in Kansas City for all my high power weapons. Most important question to ask a smith is if he uses thread pitch gauges or go, no go gauges. If he says he threads to your can threads run very fast and don't look back. They must be cut to standard thread specifications and not threaded till they thread on another set of threads.



Good info and I will add that there is definitely tricks to indicating your barrel in.

I would say that about 90% of most issues is non concentric thread jobs so BE SURE whomever does it knows what there doing.
 
Under the suppressor page. Thread title was (may have been wrong about griffin). And it may have no relevance, but it might be something else he could look at.
 
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Originally Posted By: Kino MOriginally Posted By: 3DHUSKERI seen that this weapon was going to DTECH to be checked. He does good work, I imagine if he did the threads they are ok. He threads all kinds of upper he builds for people here on this site. It could be someone else threaded his upper, don't know right now.

I use GAP in Kansas City for all my high power weapons. Most important question to ask a smith is if he uses thread pitch gauges or go, no go gauges. If he says he threads to your can threads run very fast and don't look back. They must be cut to standard thread specifications and not threaded till they thread on another set of threads.



Good info and I will add that there is definitely tricks to indicating your barrel in.

I would say that about 90% of most issues is non concentric thread jobs so BE SURE whomever does it knows what there doing.

Good point, must be concentric to the bore is very important.
 
Originally Posted By: Kino M
Good info and I will add that there is definitely tricks to indicating your barrel in.

I would say that about 90% of most issues is non concentric thread jobs so BE SURE whomever does it knows what there doing.

Yes sir... Every fella I chat with, I make sure and tell them thread on the can, or attach the can, pull off the upper and BCG look down the bore and make sure you have a clean pass... Same thing on bolt guns, thread her on, pull the bolt and make sure your not canted at the end, I know for a fact I've save 2 massive head aches and suppressors lives by taking the time to do this.
 
I was shooting my own reloads in 20 Tac with 35g Bergers. They appeared to shoot fine without the can. I didn't notice any keyholes, but to be honest the groups at 50 were tiny so I didn't really check. I have been hunting with this upper multiple times and always hit what I was pointing at, but this was minus the can. I will check all of this close when everything gets back here before I screw the can back on.

Mike at DTech also suggested I purchase some caliber specific rods that fit in the barrel with a centering fixture and then screw on the can to see if it's all squared up. I forget what he called them. He said they were around $40 each caliber. Anyone know what theses are called.

 
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