reforming brass

nastynatesfish

Active member
wondering, since its the same case just necked down, could i form 25-06 brass from 270? or 30-06? i have a crap load of both and now have a 25-06 coming. i would like to do that untill i can get a load of new 25-06 home.
 

My friend,

The .270 cases would be best because it is a minor neck process going down .020". Basically, you're simply going from .277" down to .257". Just do it in your .25-'06 full-length sizer and you're good to go.

Obviously, necking down from .30-'06 cases would require a major necking-down (from .308" to .257") and that would probably build-in some degree of case neck concentricity problem. Also, you would need an intermediate die, probably the .270 FLS would work, and it potentially would thicken your necks, creating a potential bullet release problem.

Anyway, the best case would be your .270s. Because .270 cases are considerably longer than the basic '06 case, you will need to trim.

The maximum case length on the .25-'06 case is 2.494", so you should trim .010" shorter than that; to 2.484".

When necking down, I heavily chamfer the outside of the case neck. This will aid the case necking process. I also very lightly oil the outside of the case neck. These two details also help in case neck concentricity.

Further, I would check the thickness of the case necks after alteration. There is an outside chance that the necking-down might thicken the necks. In this case, the necks would requite turnng. Frankly, I don't see this happening, but it's always best to be careful.

Necking your .270 cases to .257" is a minor handloading process, so don't worry over-much about it.

If you run into any difficulties, either address me on this thread or send me a PM. It would be my total pleasure to help you in any way I possibly can.

All the best,

Steve Timm
 
thats cool. ive been loading a while just didnt know if i should anneal the cases to dead soften the brass of not. im still waiting on my dies to get here so it wont be till thurday or so. thanks for the response.
 
i have been making 2506 brass out of 3006 for long time.i just formed 2506 out of 3006 brass yesterday and shot them today with no problems. run the 3006 brass through your 2506 fl die and check the length, trim if needed. load them and shoot them, then check for trimming again. i have never had a problem with thick necks,but thats just me. you will get a small ring sometimes just above the shoulder,but once you fire them they will disappear. make sure you lube the cases good before forming.
 
+1 what Steve said. A guy I work with gives me his 270 brass, and I had bought some once fired 270. I just ran it through my FL die, and trimmed. Simple as it gets.

kevlars
 
I make a bunch of 7-08 brass out of .308 win brass. It is easily formed with barely a noticeable difference on the press handle.
 
That small ring at the base of the neck is brass. It had to go somewhere. Usually refered to as the donut. If you choose not to remove it, it will flow to the inside of the neck when fired. As long as you don't load long bullets that touch the excess brass inside the neck, it will be ok. If you do plan to load long bullets, then it should be removed prior to firing. It is easy to remove. Just get a lyman neck trimmer/turner (if you have a lyman brass trimmer) or some other brand and cut it off.

Tom
 
I prefer .270 brass for my .25-06, because I also shoot a .30-06. My buddies who shoot .270s give me their once fired brass, so I can keep the headstamps separate. The .270 brass does need to be trimmed quite a bit.
 
do you guys trim the .270 brass then down size it to 25 cal or run it through the sizer then trim it. seems like it would be easier to trim it short a bit then size it.
 
Originally Posted By: nastynatesfishdo you guys trim the .270 brass then down size it to 25 cal or run it through the sizer then trim it. seems like it would be easier to trim it short a bit then size it.

It is better to size, then trim. Sometimes, sizing down a neck results in an uneven neck length cuz the case gets longer when you size the neck down - if you trim after, you are guaranteed that the neck is square and of proper length.
 


Lightly lubricating the neck, inside and out, really helps to keep the case-neck concentricity and uneven lengthening to an absolute minimum.

Also, whenever possible, I use the Redding tungsten-carbide sizing balls ... they are slicker than snot on a doorknob.

Hint: Snot On A Doorknob is very slick, indeed.
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Steve


 
I've necked up .243 and necked down 7-08 to make .260 Remington brass. Both have done just fine.



Steve,
is snot on a doorknob slicker than boiled owl poop? I've always wondered about that.
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Originally Posted By: Steve Timm

Hint: Snot On A Doorknob is very slick, indeed.
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Steve
 
Originally Posted By: fw707I've necked up .243 and necked down 7-08 to make .260 Remington brass. Both have done just fine.



Steve,
is snot on a doorknob slicker than boiled owl poop? I've always wondered about that.
confused.gif



Originally Posted By: Steve Timm

Hint: Snot On A Doorknob is very slick, indeed.
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Steve


They are about the same but snot is easier to work with than boiling owl poop.

I was told the slickest thing is something on a gold tooth but can't remember what it is.
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got all the brass formed and trimmed. im gonna shoot some 75gr hollow points out of it to fireform then see what i can do with it. thanks alot guys
 
This will correct the mis-information in replies above,ie when reforming a parent brass down caliber it will force the brass in the neck area to thicken and not noticeably increase the case length; the neck thickening may result it chambering and accuracy difficulties thus the need to ream the neck inside which will also address the concentricity issue. Conversely if you neck up the necks will thin out and is not obviously advisable for more than a one caliber step up. And most definitely if you want case life you need to anneal after the reforming and if necking more than one caliber down anneal before as well.
 
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