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#1620877 - 06/20/10 05:41 PM Re: First aid/dog kit [Re: Wackmaster]
Powerfisher Offline
Die Hard Member II

Registered: 03/19/10
Posts: 1855
Loc: Washington
Speaking of dogs, Duane, how is Spotlight doing?
"Live to Shoot, Shoot to Live"
"Gun Control is being able to hit your target"

#1633185 - 07/12/10 12:59 AM Re: First aid/dog kit [Re: Powerfisher]
Taylor Christian Offline
Predator Master

Registered: 07/06/10
Posts: 80
Loc: TX

Click on store, then first aid. They have some pretty good stuff, at least some kits to get someone started in the right direction. This is where most all the hog doggers I know go to get gear and all that.
"When my dogs die, I wanna go where they go"
-Chad White


#1635470 - 07/15/10 07:33 PM Re: First aid/dog kit [Re: Taylor Christian]
L3Outdoors Offline
New Member

Registered: 07/15/10
Posts: 16
Loc: Rockport TX
I will try and simpify this for the average hunter to deal with an emergency long enough to get the dog to a trained vet for further care.

#1. Large cuts and bleeding all you need is a Quik Clot battle pack, and if you want you can carry two or three Quik Clot 25gm packs. This is every thing needed to deal with Arteries, Lungs, and gut hits in a dog or person if needed. Quik Clot is proven to stop 98% of artery wounds in the field. The closest to that is the Bagdad bandage at 50%.
Battle Pack
Quik Clot 25gm packs
How you use it.

#2. Heat Stroke.

Water for drenching the dogs heart area. Never drench the whole dog only the heart area. You will put them into unrevesable shock. Just apply room tempature water to the dogs heart area.

Hrydro tabs and 20oz water bottle. break the tabs up and shake until you can not see them in the water. This only works if your dog is not so far gone that wont drink.

IV and Saline drip. It's very important to get fluid into a dog that wont or cant drink. Most people don't know how to tap a vein and if the dog is really far gone the vein will bust anyway so just start an IV under the skin SubQ and keep it going till you can get to a vet. This can be troublesome in my area because of the heavy brush that you might have to crawl through so I carry a bottle of 9% Saline and a 60cc suringe and a #22 needle. I will load the dog up SubQ slowly then move the dog. Once I get to the truck I will start an IV drip.

Dextrose. If your dog doesn't have any fluid left from dehydration then he doesn't have any sugars left ether. I give Dextrose SubQ for the weight of the dog to try and replace the sugars lost by the dehydration.

Dexmethasone. This is for treatment of shock and edema. Your vet can give you a script for it and explain in detail how to use it on your dog and breed. This can save your dog so get with your vet and learn how to use it.

These are the only two things I treat in the field. Anything else goes to the vet or I treat at home or camp.

#1636376 - 07/17/10 04:40 AM Re: First aid/dog kit [Re: L3Outdoors]
Taylor Christian Offline
Predator Master

Registered: 07/06/10
Posts: 80
Loc: TX
3-4 cc of Dex is good for snake bites too!
"When my dogs die, I wanna go where they go"
-Chad White


#1652768 - 08/12/10 09:19 PM Re: First aid/dog kit [Re: Taylor Christian]
MainAttraction! Offline
Junior Member

Registered: 08/15/09
Posts: 36
Loc: West Side!!!
I think your goal would be to learn veterinary care so that one day you will be independent of them. You really owe it to yourself and your dogs to learn what the vet knows.
Outside of sewing up guts I can take care of anything that goes wrong with my dogs body.
I don't use ANY blood stop. All you need is patients.
If it doesn't stop on it's own add pressure, patients again and add pressure again. Eventually it will coagulate.

This is what I do below. Vets aren't gods. If you don't want to follow what I do go to the vet, spend your money, but PLEASE don't just look at the vet in awe find one you can learn from. One who is willing to teach you. Otherwise you will go broke in the dog game.

I AM NOT A VET. Any advice given should be checked with your vet. I have had a kennel most of my life and in extreme cases of trauma these methods have worked very well for me.
There are many ways to rehab a dog and my way is only one of them. I would strongly suggest you locate a veterinarian that will teach and work with you.
As many of you know keeping a large amount of dogs is VERY expensive and having your vet teach you how to take care of your dogs yourself will save you much time and money not to mention increase your knowledge and improve the quality of life of your dogs.
With that said....
I think the most important thing with wounds is keeping them clean.
1) Wash affected areas with Betidine scrub and rinse with warm water.
2) Staple large open wounds and leave part of it open to drain. Once stapled take a tube of triple antibiotic ointment and put the tip in every wound and pump in some ointment (this creates a nice wound barrier to keep bacteria out and promote healing).
If after a few days the wounds are not swollen and have formed a nice scab LEAVE THEM ALONE. A scab on a wound that is not infected is nature’s own band aid. Keeping them dry and clean is a good thing.
Some have used and swear by Granulex Spray
I have not used it but hear many good things from reliable sources.
3) If you think they need antibiotics polyflex is a very good one for bite wounds (see your vet for dose info).
If after a week series of injectables you have a wound or two that is being stubborn stop the injectable and switch up with a series of oral baytril, or if orals are more convenient use baytil only (see vet for dose info).
Some cases may require injections of Azium or dexamethasone? Dexamethasone is an inexpensive drug usually made for horses but can also be used on canines. Dex can be great for reducing swelling and allowing wounds to close quickly speeding up rehab. However, it is a corticosteroid that acts as a diuretic and will dehydrate your dog. To compensate this you can either put water in your dogs feed, and give them broth in the evenings to make sure they are drinking enough fluids (sometimes when it is cold dogs will not drink much) or you can give fluids either IV, or SQ. You can check your dog’s hydration by grabbing a pinch of skin along the spine in between the hips and beginning of the rib cage and pull upward and let it go. If the dog is at a working weight (lean) and hydrated it will snap right back. If the dog is slightly dehydrated it will take 1 second. If it is severely dehydrated it will take a count of 3, or more and will require immediate fluids either orally or via SQ, or IV. Dex can suppress immune system, and can be hard on kidneys and the liver. I usually only use it in rare instances and only for 3 days (check with your vet for dose info, etc).
If your dog has had a kennel fight, or experienced a similar bite wound and you have a lump under the skin the size of a cherry, walnut, or larger that does not have a hole to drain. You can take a 3 cc syringe and pull out the plunger and with a 22, or 18 gauge needle you can take the knot in your fingers and poke it a few times with the syringe and the extra fluid with milk out. You may have to do this twice a day until the lump is gone. Otherwise it may not re absorb and your dog will be left with a hematoma.
Dog should be kept in a clean dry area to rehab. If they are really beat keeping them in a crate lined with newspaper is a good idea. This can help keep debris from getting into open wounds causing an infection. If you rehab one this way you will have to take them out to empty often.
Common sense is the rule. Keep your dog warm (a dog that is beat can slip into shock if left in the cold to rehab) and clean and in most cases as shawn said you will not need antibiotic injectables.
Good working dogs work hard for us and I always figure the least we can do is make an effort to care for them properly afterward.

PS: Many wounds that are only about 1 in long by 1/2 inch wide if kept clean will close. Stapling large wounds shut leaving a small section up for draining does two things. 1st the healing time is MUCH faster, and the chance of bacteria and debri getting into the wound is GREATLY reduced.

Super Glue:
your dog may be more annoyed by that hard crap that is closing the wound than the wound itself and may chew at the wound until it gets it off making it worst than it originally was.
Keep it simple.
1) Wash em with anitseptic scrub
2) Put antibiotic ointment in their wounds
3) Keep em in a warm, clean, dry area to rehab.
4) If wounds are severe be proactive and give give oral, or injectable antibiotics.

#1714944 - 11/11/10 08:10 AM Re: First aid/dog kit [Re: Wackmaster]
Plotts4me Offline
New Member

Registered: 11/10/10
Posts: 1
Loc: Northern Pa Gods Country
(some require a prescription)

Rubbing alcohol
Pad cream
Hydrogen peroxide
Amoxicillin--- Antibiotic
Rimadyl--------Pain Reliever


Small bar of hand soap
Several cotton rags
3 foot of 1/4 cotton rope
Gauze 3 rolls
Gauze Pads several sizes
First Aid tape
Needle nose pliers
Triangle Bandage 2 each
Small splints
Tongue depressors
Razor Knife

The goal of first aid on hounds in the field is to keep them calm, relieve stress, and keep them alive until you can get to a Vet. Many injuries can be handled in the field, then with quality after care at home. If in doubt always consult a vet. I never run my hounds without having my kit in my truck.

The worst injury I have dealt with was a gunshot wound. While coon hunting in the early 70's a friend of mine shot my Black and Tan hound with a 357, the bullet hit the back abdomen, with some fast first aid and a quick trip to the vet she survived. The dog was in a fight with 3 coon and he tried to shoot the big boar coon who had the dog by the rear and yes I forgave him.
Bears, Coons and Plotts is how I roll

#1849752 - 02/18/11 10:56 PM Re: First aid/dog kit [Re: MainAttraction!]
Orion Guide Offline
New Member

Registered: 02/09/11
Posts: 3
Loc: Arizona
Great question and super great answers!! Lots of info on this one!!!

#2972541 - 06/26/16 04:25 PM Re: First aid/dog kit [Re: Wackmaster]
idahorob Offline
Predator Master

Registered: 04/25/16
Posts: 74
Loc: idaho
Amen to that

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