helpful equipment

yoteman

New member
the Niff-T-Seat--set at 16 in. and a 25/67 Stoney Point Bipod make for a compfortable, Stable shooting platform--Both have web-sites on the web
 
Personally, I prefer cross-sticks like the old buffalo hunters used rather than bipods. For me I am much more manuverable, they adjust rapidly to changes in terrain, and they perform just as well. I have several sets; one painted white for winter use with feet on it to keep it from sinking deeply into snow, a short set for prone shooting, and a couple of brown sets for whatever. I make them out of oak flooring about 5/8" and 40" long. A shooter definitely needs something especially in windy country like most Great Plains hunters encounter regularly.
 
I have found that shooting sticks are a must. I don't like the way a rifle feels front heavy with a bipod mounted on it. I to have several shooting sticks with different camo patterns and lengths. Even got a pair under the seat of the truck,just in case I forget to pack my usual pair with me.

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Hunt'em Hard
CoyoteKrazy

[This message has been edited by coyotekrazy (edited 02-27-2001).]
 
I've been using shooting stix for a few years now and I thought I had a real goodset up, used some fiberglass tent poles about 30 inches long, then I discovered Varmint Als web page and saw his instructions on how to build a pair of shooting stix, Well I followd his instruction and I'll be dammed if I wound up with a way better set up. very very sturdy and easy to pack
 
I have been using shooting sticks for quite a few years and wouldn't go callin with out em.
I do not care for bipods even a little bit, they are unwieldy on a movin critter, keep your barrel stuck up in the air like a wart on your rearendus ,and weigh your gun down to boot.
The ones I use are simply two hard wood dowels approx 32" long and drilled about 6" from the top with a small bolt through them both.
A couple of things I have done to them are. 1, wrapped them in burlap strips to camo them and also to reduce gun clatter when I stick my rifle on em. 2, I have stuck little rubber tips found at any hardware store on the bottom tips to reduce rock clatter when bring them into position.
3. I lay them down over my left leg when calling so they are not visible till needed.
And 4, they make pretty good pokers to ward off the odd bunch of Javelinas that come spoiling for a fight to your call, as happened recently at the Williams Az Contest!
 
I prefer shooting sticks also, or shooting rods acctually.

The ones I have are Ryan Kruger customs, made from titanium. (one of the only benifits of working in a machine shop) They are 38 inches long, and have connections for anywhere from 6 inches to 32 inches in height, every 6 inches. They are painted brown and wrapped in burlap. I don't usually use them in the winter because of the amount of snow we get here, maybe a set of pads like mentioned earlier would be a good idea.

RK

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Idle hands may be the devils work, but idle minds are so much worse
 
Another piece of equipment I wouldn't leave my pickup without is a pair of small compact binoculars. Mine are B&L 7x26 custom compacts. The optics are incredibly good, and they are much better to use in examining the real estate than a rifle scope. I always use them before I start to call, for several minutes after I stop calling, and before I go around the side of any hill. There is no use to walk a mile or more into an area only to walk right in on a coyote you could have seen from a half mile back if you had used your binoculars first.
 
You know Steve that is a great idea and one I am sorry to say I have failed to take full advantage of.
I wonder if they work as good for spotting Javelinas? I about got another lap full of the little rodents again this afternoon!
 
Here is another freebee. This one is a real life saver if you are hunting in snow country. If the snow is deep enough that snowshoes are a necessity, then I like to drag a white painted tobaggon (or a plastic sled, etc) out with me when calling to aid in transporting animals around especially if I am by myself. Generally I cache it 1/2 mile or so from my vehicle, but it is out there with me somewhere. Having the tobaggon available in deep crusted snow really hits home when you have just shot 100 lbs. of coyotes over a mile from your vehicle and it is 1/2 before sundown.
 
Shooting Sticks Users,

I have always used a bipod. I have never tried shooting sticks, but I see there is a big following with them. My question to you guys is. . . . . if you are laying prone and using the sticks, isn't it rather difficult to move the sticks if the coyote comes in from a different direction? With the bipod attached, I only have to lift the gun and slowly move.
 
Nebraska Coyote hunter--If I am prone with my short cross-sticks, I pick up the cross-sticks with my left hand, and the rifle with my right hand (I shoot right handed) and move the 2 together as 1 unit. It works well once you get used to it, but a bipod in this situation may very well be better. Use what works the best for you.

The cross-sticks are especially nice when calling around taller cover. This enables the shooter to sit in front of a clump of whatever, and see over much of the other taller cover around him. Sometimes I get to a place where I absolutely have to call from where I am for best results, taller cover notwithstanding. Cross-sticks are invaluable in these situations at least for me.
 
I picked up a video yestarday called Perdation Predator. There's a guy named Ed Wimberley in it that uses some sticks like he sleeps with them. They slide over the barrel of his rifle. This guy makes some shots wwaayyy out there. I've got to get a set.

Bob
 
Quote Steve Allen "I like to drag a white painted tobaggon (or a plastic sled, etc) out with me when calling to aid in transporting animals around especially if I am by myself. Generally I cache it 1/2 mile or so from my vehicle, but it is out there with me somewhere."

Somewhere recently I just read that someone uses the tobogan to lay in in the snow it there is low cover.

tcoop
 
Well, this looks like the right place to talk about a real necessity in the coyote calling game. If someone wanted to mass produce these, they could do quite well.

I have seen a lot of shooting sticks but not like the adjustable shooting sticks that I have. I have a pair that were made by an ADC man from NM I believe. They are made of hollow aluminum (possibly arrow shafts) with adjustable fiberglass rods inside. I would not be without them. The adjustable feature is what makes them so special.

I will try to describe them as best as I can. The total length is 27" when they are retracted. The total length when they are extended is 46". The aluminum shaft is about 1/2" outside diameter and 24" long. I think that a larger diameter shaft with thicker walls would be better. The solid fiberglass rod that slips inside is 24" long. A groove is cut in the aluminum shaft that is 4" from the top and 1" from the bottom. The grove is to accomodate a bolt that is glued into the fiberglass shaft 1 3/4" from the end. This bolt has a wing nut on it and is flared on top so the wing nut wont fall off. This bolt that is attached to the fiberglass shaft once it is slid inside, slides from the top to the bottom of the grove in the aluminum shaft creating the adjustable feature. The wing nut keeps it in any place that you choose.

2" from the top of the aluminum shaft there is a 1 1/4" long pivot bolt drilled through both shafts to pivot creating the X shooting sticks. There is a washer between the two shafts to aid in pivoting. The end of the bolt is also flared once the nut is in place to prevent it from falling off.

There is also a fiberglass shaft approximately 3 1/4" long that is slipped inside the top end of the aluminum shafts also. The pivot bolt goes through these fiberglass shafts about 1/4" from the bottom end as well as the aluminum shafts. The fiberglass shafts extend 1" beyond the end of the aluminum shafts. The 1" exposed tips of these 3 1/4" fiberglass shafts will accomodate a surgical tube to support your gun.

There is a 2" aluminum shaft that is slipped over and permanently attached or glued to the bottom of each fiberglass shaft and is cut at an angle to poke in the ground. I think a better feature would be an arrow field tip screwed in. Any takers on mass producing these? Ryank, you interested? I don't know of another light weight, adjustable telescoping shooting stick out there does anyone else know of one? Wiley E


[This message has been edited by Wiley E (edited 03-07-2001).]
 
Wiley--Nice looooooong description, but I'm more of a visual learner. I'd like to remind you of that old saying--"A picture is worth a thousand words," and ask you to please post a picture of your shooting sticks. Thanks.
 
Wiley--I have got the description of your cross-sticks down in a general way, but I agree with Silverfox that a picture would also help. Any chance there?
 
I think cross stix need to be larger than an aluminum arrow, I've used them a lot and theya re'nt as stable as two 5/8 oak sticks 40 inches long. with the cross bolt down about 5 inches from the top. and nails glued in the bottom for ice picks, these are as stable as a bench rest NO KIDDING. to adjust for height spread the legs or squeeze them togeather
 
Howler--Your cross-sticks sound just exactly like mine. I'm so attached to them that I just as well leave the rifle in the pickup, if I don't have the cross-sticks with me. I also glue a leather strip on the inside V to cushion the rifle stock and to to further steady the rifle. I think a 1/8" thick layer of clear silicon sealer on the inside V might even be better, but I haven't tried it yet. I also have nails in both ends just in case I forgot my short cross sticks and have to turn the long sticks upside down to shoot from the prone.
 
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