I did my first deer Euro mount a few weeks ago. I ordered a kit with all the ingredients and a wall plaque. I started with a freshly skinned skull and boiled it for about 30 min with 1/4 cup sodium carbonate:1 gal water. When I started, I got the water level just over the bases. After the initial boiling, I pulled it out and scraped some more.....boiled again for 20 min. Pulled the skull out and did the final scraping. I then mixed a strong peroxide with a powdered "bleaching agent" until it had the consistency of mayonnaise. I "painted" the mayo solution on the skull and let it set for 24 hrs. It turns to a light, crusty powder. I then removed the bulk of the residue with a clean paint brush...and rinsed off the rest. I was worried the two boiling cycles may have caused two problems: It foamed over really bad even on a gentle, rolling boil (thank God I did this in the driveway), and I was afraid it would bleach the bottom of the antlers....but it didn't. Second, I was afraid some of the teeth would fall out....but thankfully they didn't.

What I learned:

I wanted to buy this kit to figure out what ingredients were used, so in the future I can just buy them and not fork over $60 for a kit. From what I found on the net, 100% sodium carbonate = Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda....not Baking Soda (maybe this is why my antlers didn't fade??). For the bleaching agent....I am not sure on this one....maybe either costic soda or Borax?? Also, I need to look at the peroxide bottle that came with the kit to see what is says....as far as strength. I haven't really looked around for "Super Washing Soda" yet, but it can't be too hard to find.

I could not be more pleased with how it turned out. All I need to do now is "seal" it with some clear lacquer.

My preferred method of doing a skull is very similar to the original instructions, just backwards. I boil the skull first not being to particular with the the tiny bits of meat. I then soak them in water for a week or too until all the meat is gone, washing the skull in degreaser, then peroxide them. I have tried the original described method and it works great. However I had the problem of the skull smelling like the nasty water for a long period of time. In fact they still smell terrible even after several months of airing out. When you boil first, then soak, the stink stays down plus it takes half the soaking time. I then like to spray the skull with a few coats of clear coat. This helps control the problem of dust building up in the areas where the oils and grease seep out.

Here is a Red fox and coyote skull I had done couple years ago with Dermisted beetles. The fox was a 14 lb. male and the coyote was 41.7 lb. male. No wonder coyotes kill foxes look at the size difference. Beetles are the way to go. Cost a few bucks but no mess or smell.

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Pete, see you are digging up old bones. Here is one I did
sometime back. Your skull turned out real nice. Great post.



wileywacker In Utah SAM


http://samnesi.googlepages.com

I left a coyote, bobcat and fox skull directly on a big red ant pile for 6 weeks. They didnt do much

Here is a business that cleans skulls using the beatles. Good pricing too.

www.Skullsunlimited.com

The only thing I would add on this is that if you mix in some climbing chalk or gym chalk with your hydrogen peroxide you can make a paste that is easy to spread on and won't get on the anlers. I pack it into the brain and nasal cavities as well. I leave it on for a couple of days and then just rinse it off. With coyotes its easier to just use a gallon size ziplock bag filled with hyd. peroxide.

Heres a question for anyone that has some older skulls. (7-10 years old) Have you noticed that the skulls you sprayed with enamel are turning yellow with time. Here is a picture of a fox skull that I boiled out 10 years ago, a coyote skull that is 7 years old and some deer heads that are this year, 3 years old and 6 years old. I had another deer head that had enamel on it that was 11 years old that had turned yellow as well. I cut the horns off the skull and threw the skull out already. I don't ever spray enamel on my skulls anymore. Any suggestions would be appreciated as I like the way they look with the enamel right up until they turn yellow.
-Jason

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No wonder coyotes kill foxes look at the size difference.

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And sometimes they just bite them on the head.






Notice the 4 holes in the skull.



The coyote teeth line up perfectly. Somehow he lived to come into my call.

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1 or 2 lite coats of flat white spray paint will keep your stuff from yellowing over time!

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I should have read all the posts first. Someone covered the Magnesium Carbonate (climbing chalk) as well.

I boiled one about a week ago, and had the most alwful smell in the back yard. I thought for sure the cops would be at my door wondering who I had killed, and start digging up my yard looking for a body. I used 2 gallons water and 6 to 8 oz of borax and boiled for an hour to hour and a half. meat fell off the bone

Here is a company located in Indiana that does a very good
job on skulls.
I have had several done and all turned out alot better then expected.
www.EuropeanSkulls.com

For anyone that boils their deer skulls - if you end up submerging the antler bases a little and they turn white, Minwax makes wood finish stain markers (hardware store) in six different colors you can use to touch up antlers. Or, at the hobby store, I picked up and have been using Sharpie furniture touch-up markers. It came in a three pack (dark, medium, and light wood)..I've been using the two lighter colors with multiple coats until it matches...Let it dry after each coat because when its wet it looks darker than when its dry.....

Jason, For skulls that turn yellow over time sometimes only a year or two use Acetone in a 5 gallon bucket with a lid. Put your yellow skulls in and it will remove the sealer and any deep grease left in the bone. Leave it a week or two. Use all precautions with Acetone, IT IS EXTREMELY FLAMABLE! Krylon Matte at wally world works fairly well for sealing. I use a resin that I buy from a Musuem Supply that I dilute in acetone and dip or paint on. Acetone evaporates and leaves the CLEAR plastic resin on the bone. It DOES NOT YELLOW and works wells on flaky/chalky bone too. Deep yellow can be an indication of deep grease in the bone.

is there anyway of doing this in the winter with out the water freezing?

im impatient as all [beeep] and i wanna get it done. besides don't think the "boss" will let me put one in the freezer, she would die if she found it in there....

For masceration or degreasing use an old igloo ice chest and an aquarium heater. The titanium ones are less sensitive and do not break like the glass ones. Ebay has them.