Another Remote E-Caller Option

motnusa

New member
I came up with a good working wireless system for my RCA RP 5007, RS Mini Amp & RS horn speaker E-Caller. I bought Radio Shack Hand Free Wireless Mic System (#32-1221 normaly $59.99 on sale now for $39.99), cut off the mic and soldered on a 1/8" mono male plug to go to the RP 5007. At the other end I made up a connection for the needed 12 VDC for the reciever using my DeWault 12V drill battery along with this I used a lighter plug style varible voltage unit that are used to power games, CD players, etc. and used it to get the 9 volt power for the RS amp. I've tested it out to 100' and it's supposed to reach out to 200'. I found this after checking the prices on wireless mic systems at MARS Music store. Cheapist I found there was $130. Just thought I'd pass along the information.
 
motnusa,
I am new to this site, but you are right about the RS Wireless Mic System. I have built several calls using it and as you will find out it will work great even out past 100 yards. I use 8 AA batteries to power mine. I us a one of the RS project boxes to house my amp and the batteries. I fasten a CB type horn speaker to the top of the RS box and velcro the RS box to the top of the Wireless Mic System. The good thing about this system is that you have good volume control right in your hand with the unit setting 100 yards away. I am not sure which of the Wireless Mic System you bought but the 32-1221B has a mute button on the transmitter that up can push-in when you want to stop or start you tape. By pushing in the mute button this will stop ant unwanted poping noise. I also velcro the transmitter to the back of my casette player.

Good hunting,
Jim

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Hey Jim thanks for letting me the ability of this setup, as I've only used it hunting this morning, worked like a champ. RS 32-1221B is the model I choose, didn't think I could have been the 1st to try it. I mounted my horn speaker on the top of an old takle box with the recieving unit, battery, amp inside secured with some black foam insulation to keep it all in place. It's a nice compact easy to carry setup with enough room inside to carry extra tapes, batteries etc.
 
Thanks for the heads up fellers, I had been looking for an economical means of remote control, and the wireless mic system proved to be just the ticket, Im still in the building and fine tuning process, but so far it appears to be just the ticket, not a project for the not so inclined becuse of the soldering involved, but to you fellers that are familliar with this unit, I removed the 110v cord from the unit ( figured a generator running beside the speaker would have negative results ) and where I removed the cord I installed a 1/8 mono recpetacle and wired it to the line out jack , that worked pretty slick, as for power I got a battery holder for AA bateries and soldered a plug & wire to it, that worked real slick also, and of corse the 1/8 plug where the mic was, that probally works the slickest, becuse you can use it for just about any kind of player, all in all a very neat set up. one word of advice...if at all possible use wires with pre made up ends, make for a real clean looking set up, and nowhere near as prone to shorting out. I velcroed the speaker to the top of the reciever along with the battery pack, and velcroed the amp to the back of the speaker, then velcroed the transmitter to the back of the DVR, now to field test it and then build a housing box of some kind out of plexeglass.

dsc_150-E-Caller.jpg



[This message has been edited by Mo Hunter (edited 02-10-2002).]

[This message has been edited by Mo Hunter (edited 02-11-2002).]
 
Found out an interesting quirk on this caller setup. Unknown to me my 12V battery which supplies the reciever (see post at top of topic) had ran low, but with enough power to light the red power light on the unit, my problem was when I would turn on the transmitter the green signal light would not light like normal. My first ASSumption was the unit was bad so I bought another complete unit only to find out all I needed was a freshly charged battery! But I added an upgrade on the transmitter side on my new unit. I bought one of Radio Shack's headphone volume controls and installed it in the line between the old mic line and my 1/8" male connector. Now I have much better volume control than what I was getting with the RCA RP-5007.
 
Hey motnusa:

Sounds to me like your RS ecaller w/remote is the way I want to go. I have acquired most of the parts to do it like that, but because I'm an electronics greenhorn, I'm a little reluctant to start cutting and pasting, so to speak, on this equipment. As I'm in Fenton and you are in Lonedell, I'm wondering if you would consider/feel comfortable with maybe getting together with me and walking me through the assembly of the system? Or at least if I could communicate directly with you either by phone or email, that would help. How about dropping me an email and letting me know what you think? My address is [url=mailto:jimbergmann32@msn.com
 
Working on geting a wiring schematic togeather but still in the building process.... I think I can pretty well walk you thru it and if you have gathered all the pieces parts you should be able to follow along.

Starting with the RS 32-1221B Transmitter,remove the battery cover and remove the philips screw this lets the transmitter open up so you can see all the goodies inside...Snip off the external mic wires as close to the circit board as possible, and throw over your left sholder. ( That way your only in there once with a soldering gun ) now take a 6'x 1/8 mono jumper cable, and cut in in half. Strip back one end of the cable just enough to get ahold of the wires to solder, and solder it in the place of where you sniped the wires off the circit board on the transmitter.Now instead of a mic on the transmitter you have a 1/8 mono jack that can plug into your audio source. If you like instead of the 6' jumper you can pick up the cord with the built in volume control at RS and have the ability of controling the volume there as well as from your audio source. (Thanks again Motusa for another great tip)

The reason I opt for the premade cables is to keep things looking profesional, as well as cutting down on places where the wire might be able to short out...( not real handy tryin to repair a broken solder joint or shorted wire out in the field )

Reassemble the transmitter.

Now for the reciever, remove the philips screws from the bottom of the reciever and pry the top and bottom half's apart. Snip off the 110V cord as close to the circut board as possible, remove cord and groumit from reciever and throw over your left shoulder. This leaves a hole in the back of the reciever about 1/2 inch in diamater. I installed a 1/8 female mono recptacle with a rubber groumit around it in the hole for a couple of reasons...one to keep the bugs from crawling in and taking up residency in my reciever, and two becuse otherwise you would have to get your audio output from the line out jack ( which is an RCA type jack ) This way I can carry my roll of wire with me which has male and female 1/8 mono ends and if my wireless setup has a problem or batteries run down im not out of business for the day, I simply plug my amp into my audio source, roll out the wire and plug in the speaker.

If your not comfortable with adapting the circuit board for the 1/8 female mono recptacle that is fine...you can pick up your audio from the line out RCA jack on the back of the reciever, I just made mine that way to keep everything looking profesional and for ease of droping the wireless system out of the caller if need be. If you opt to go with the RCA line out set up, plug the old 110v hole with a rubber plug and skip the next parragraph.

Back to the reciever... after installing the female 1/8 mono recptacle, remove the circut board carefully from the housing becuse one of the wires has to solder onto the bottom of the board as the RCA jack that is there is above the solder joint. locate the solder joint on the underside of the board, under the RCA jack ( it is the joint that you can not see from the top side ) solder one of the wires there and sneak it around the end of the circut board, and reinstall the board, now locate the RCA jack conections on the top of the board and solder the other wire from the 1/8 female recptacle onto one of the two exposed legs of the jack.

Reassamble the reciever.

Now for the 12v power supply, I got an 8 AA battery holder and soldered on the a short length of wire with the proper jack to fit in the 12v external power recptacle...make sure you have the polarity propper ( the positive goes on the center terminal, the negitave is the outside terminal. )

Now for the speaker, I took the RS 25 watt outdoor speaker, on sale for $14.00 and superglued a piece of plexaglass to the bottom mounting leg of it to give it a smooth surface to mount the velcro to, and souldered a 1/8 mono plug onto the wires.

Now take a roll of sticky back velcro and velcro the speaker to the top of the reciever and the RS Mini amp to the back of the speaker. ( Carefull not to cover the battery access on the back of the mini amp.) I also took velcro and attached my battery pack to the top of the reciever. That way all those components stay togeather but can also be broken down to make it more portable.

Ok here we go...take a short 12" mono jumper cable and go from the reciever to the mini amp input, take the plug from the speaker and plug it into the mini amp output, plug in the 12v power supply, and turn on the reciever and the mini amp ( the mini amp has it's own 9 volt battery ) Now plug the transmitter's 1/8 mono plug into the audio source, and turn on the transmitter and the audio source ... and if you have done everything corectly you should be making wireless music.

Any of you fellers that are working on the same set up feel free to jump right in here and throw in any other tips you can think of.

A small disclamer.....I am in no way liable if you reach for a ciggarette...and grab your soldering iron instead!!! Or can I be held responsible if you go for a dip of snuff and wind up with a mouth full of acid flux !!! And I don't even want to hear about "Fluffy" knocking the soldering iron off the table and burning a hole in your dining room carpet!!!

With that said...If you have any questions post them and I will see if I can help you out.
 
Old Hunter,

I am sure that there are several ways of putting this unit together but if you are interested e-mail me at Grumpyjim5@aol.com and I will send you a schematic of the unit I have made. I tried to post it on here but didn't have any luck.

Good hunting,
Jim

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What is the audio specs on this remote mic system? Does it add further noise to what you would normally get with the RS amp? If it really does a nice audio job, I will run out and give it a whirl.

Bob
 
BobP,
All I can relate is my experience with mine, but there is very little noise difference between the wireless setup and what I was getting using speaker wire directly from the RS amp and what lttle additional noise it may add is not near as bad as dealing with all that speaker wire when moving setups.

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Motnusa
"Living Life Tooth, Fang and Claw"
 
I have noticed that a lot of you guys are packing your rs callers in a tackle box or building your own custom box to hold the unit.
I have come up with what I feel is the perfect package.
I have taken a 13" piece of thin wall PVC pipe and put a clean out on one end and the speaker fits right in the other end with a couple of small bolts to hold it in place.
You have plenty of room inside to hold the amp and remote unit if you have one.
I did do some re-wireing to the rs mini-amp.
I put a switch and a volume control on the outside of the pipe, also extended the ext. speaker jack to the outside since I am not using a remote yet. I also extended the battery wire from the amp to the back of the pipe (just inside the clean out) installed a 9 volt battery clip, now it is very simple to change the battery. I wraped the whole thing in camo tape(pvc will not hold paint well) and attached a couple of I-bolts to hold a sling.
A very slick package if I do say so myself!
It looks just like a log laying in the brush.

Now if I could figure out how to get rid of the amp noise I would be happy.

Bake.
 
I hooked up this set up today on my RS caller but I seem to be getting a lot of static noise when I get more than 50 to 100 ft away any one else havein this trouble...I may have it fixed by addin a short piece of wire to the antenna after I extend it..have got to try it yet will know more tommorrow..Giving it a field test in th4 morning

Blacksmith
 
Is there a reason for using AA 8-battery holder instead of D Cell 8-battery holder. I would think the D cell batteries would last longer but the AA batteries would be lighther. Instead of taking the reciever apart could you not just use a 1/8" plug to RCA plug adapter? And could you use a cigarette lighter adapter, with the cigarette ligher part cut off and the wire attached to the battery holder, and plug it into the DC input on the back of the receiver? To me this seems much simpler. Not that I am a electronics guru or anything. Let me know what you guys think. Bob Hubble
 
Blacksmith,
Just wondering if you got your static problem fixed.I'm using a mp3 player,as soon as I plug it in I get static untill I start playing.Any ideas? Thanks to everybody for sharing the endless ideas!

[This message has been edited by redbone1 (edited 02-26-2002).]
 
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