nuketheyote243
New member
Yup, but if a dude is drawing 30" and shooting a short bow like Kodiak mag, then twisting it up a tad high on brace like you said, might not be a good idea.
But then shooting a short bow with that long of a draw isn't a good idea to start with (and he may already be working the limbs past their limit).
I draw around 29" and don't shoot bows less than 56".
I think for my draw length, that 58-60" bows can be twisted a bit higher than spec (depending on what the spec is).
Most specs have proven to be (to me and my buds- probably have owned over 100 recurves as a group- 3 of us) merely recommedations. Usually the upper limit well within the safe working limits of the limbs.
The lower end I don't understand, on many of the bows they simply vibrated like heck, were LOUD and shot poorly............yet were within the factory spec.
Consequently I think most spec are just a general idea put forth as a basic guidance window. To help the beginner.
A few shots and it doesn't take long for a person with a bit of experience and common sense to realize where his or her bow needs to be. A few more shots will confirm the final brace.
I guess I will always expect some common sense and skill on the part of the shooter. If one braces it too high and hits the limb limit, they should feel it and back it down.
If they don't then let them blow up their bow.
Chances are if they are that clueless they'll store it in the trunk of their car and blow it up while not shooting it.
Or they'll shoot like crap and give up.
I don't care either way, just find manufacturer's recommendation to be just a general type of thing and not specific in actual testing.
Again, within spec but low, most bows for me have shot like crap. And while I'm no great archer, I'm not a total slouch.
If I am to be considered average at best, then the specs should apply to me even more, and they usually don't.
The PSE Coyote I have is 60" and was a 50# bow. It had a lot of shock and was loud, at the top end of brace spec.
I bumped it an inch, and got 5# more from it (expecting 3).
That suggests that the bow may be nearing it's limb limit, but drawing to 29" shows stacking (just normal incremental increase).
So twisted up an inch over factory spec should prove to be fine.
My bud's 35# Coyote was terrible at factory brace (middle) and he didn't want to go past high spec ( nervous dude he is). I went +1" and the bow was a LOT nicer, and he felt it should stay there. I then told him it was over spec, and he said it felt and shot so much better he'd just leave it.
Same draw as me.
Now would I recommend some guy with a true 30" draw twist up a Coyote to +1" on brace?
Heck no.
But I wouldn't want him shooting a Coyote with a 30" draw anyway.
They simply, within spec, have been in the past...........to be iffy on durability. I would expect the 30" draw guy to be putting in way more stress than me.
If a guy draws around 30" I'd put him in a 62" bow, minimum.
That means for a factory rig, a DH/Martin 2800/Hunter. But those in spec feel shocky to me. Mambas are what, 58"?
Too short for the long draw guys. The two i saw blow up were shot by guys drawing less than 29" (in spec). I know the used one was previously owned by a guy whon drew 27" max.
For the long draw and experimenting archer, the safest bet is to go ILF and if things don't fit/feel right just order a different set of limbs. Shorts on a Hoyt Excel are 62".
I run mediums on a 19" Tradtech riser and have a 62" bow.
And 62's barely fit in the backseat of a Jeep Grand Cherokee
But then shooting a short bow with that long of a draw isn't a good idea to start with (and he may already be working the limbs past their limit).
I draw around 29" and don't shoot bows less than 56".
I think for my draw length, that 58-60" bows can be twisted a bit higher than spec (depending on what the spec is).
Most specs have proven to be (to me and my buds- probably have owned over 100 recurves as a group- 3 of us) merely recommedations. Usually the upper limit well within the safe working limits of the limbs.
The lower end I don't understand, on many of the bows they simply vibrated like heck, were LOUD and shot poorly............yet were within the factory spec.
Consequently I think most spec are just a general idea put forth as a basic guidance window. To help the beginner.
A few shots and it doesn't take long for a person with a bit of experience and common sense to realize where his or her bow needs to be. A few more shots will confirm the final brace.
I guess I will always expect some common sense and skill on the part of the shooter. If one braces it too high and hits the limb limit, they should feel it and back it down.
If they don't then let them blow up their bow.
Chances are if they are that clueless they'll store it in the trunk of their car and blow it up while not shooting it.
Or they'll shoot like crap and give up.
I don't care either way, just find manufacturer's recommendation to be just a general type of thing and not specific in actual testing.
Again, within spec but low, most bows for me have shot like crap. And while I'm no great archer, I'm not a total slouch.
If I am to be considered average at best, then the specs should apply to me even more, and they usually don't.
The PSE Coyote I have is 60" and was a 50# bow. It had a lot of shock and was loud, at the top end of brace spec.
I bumped it an inch, and got 5# more from it (expecting 3).
That suggests that the bow may be nearing it's limb limit, but drawing to 29" shows stacking (just normal incremental increase).
So twisted up an inch over factory spec should prove to be fine.
My bud's 35# Coyote was terrible at factory brace (middle) and he didn't want to go past high spec ( nervous dude he is). I went +1" and the bow was a LOT nicer, and he felt it should stay there. I then told him it was over spec, and he said it felt and shot so much better he'd just leave it.
Same draw as me.
Now would I recommend some guy with a true 30" draw twist up a Coyote to +1" on brace?
Heck no.
But I wouldn't want him shooting a Coyote with a 30" draw anyway.
They simply, within spec, have been in the past...........to be iffy on durability. I would expect the 30" draw guy to be putting in way more stress than me.
If a guy draws around 30" I'd put him in a 62" bow, minimum.
That means for a factory rig, a DH/Martin 2800/Hunter. But those in spec feel shocky to me. Mambas are what, 58"?
Too short for the long draw guys. The two i saw blow up were shot by guys drawing less than 29" (in spec). I know the used one was previously owned by a guy whon drew 27" max.
For the long draw and experimenting archer, the safest bet is to go ILF and if things don't fit/feel right just order a different set of limbs. Shorts on a Hoyt Excel are 62".
I run mediums on a 19" Tradtech riser and have a 62" bow.
And 62's barely fit in the backseat of a Jeep Grand Cherokee
