Super yoter issues

I feel my issues are not mount related. I like the LaRue mount. My poi issues occur in similar temps and my G1 profile takes different coordinates to zero than G2.
I hope our issues are not the norm and Bering gets them lined out quickly because I really want to like these yoters.
My only complaint or suggestion is that the pip could be set to more mag with the main screen at 1x. If the unit is bumped up to 2x for the intial shot it takes too long to find the front button and get fov back. Without suppressors sometimes shooting at runners is the only way to get a second shot.
 
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Thanks Korey for taking so much time to respond. I don’t want it to seem like I’m bashing the scope. Image is great, grouping is phenomenal, and I like the button and function layout. I think it will kill truckloads.

I’ll try my best to respond to your questions/comments.

Yes Sir, phenomenal accuracy. The gun shoots great and I hand load for it. I’ve never had a thermal that grouped as well as my daytime scopes. Super impressed with this.

Yes, the POI shifted exactly the same distance as I observed the crosshairs jumping when going to 4x. I almost never really shoot at coyotes at 4x (jackrabbits might be a different story). Not really a concern other than I can’t use the smaller increments offered at 4x zoom to zero.

It was a cold night when I tested and I would go check the target after each shot to allow the barrel to stay cool.

Pretty sure I was consistent on the sandbags, but you never know.

I will take some time to shoot more taking off the scope in between shots to verify. Hopefully I prove myself wrong, but I’m thinking my failure to hit many dogs past 200 yards this season might be that I’ve been taking the scope off to replace with daytime optics for my kids to use the gun deer hunting in between coyote hunts and just trusting that it would hold zero. It shifted every time I re mounted it, granted two of them were close to each other, but it never stayed in the same place two re-mounts in a row. Easily fixed by just leaving the scope mounted.

I realize this isn’t a concern for most users, but I hunt in a wide open low humidity environment and longer shots are important to me. Last year I was pretty automatic out to 300 yards with my FLIR and made many longer shots too, but I realize there is also a human variable to it. Entirely possible I just decided to forget how to shoot this year and am inventing excuses for my performance.

Also, I’ve been down the same pulsar trail xp50 rabbit hole as you (it is now serving as my scanner) and hate having to verify zero before every hunt.

If you are interested I can send you a picture of the target, I don’t know how to post them here. Thanks again!
 
I sighted my yoter in the other day at 100 yards. Everything went smooth. My cousin still has to sight in his thermion so if I get a chance,I’ll meet him at the range and shoot the yoter again to confirm no poi shift.
 
Originally Posted By: WestTX 25/06Yes, the POI shifted exactly the same distance as I observed the crosshairs jumping when going to 4x. I almost never really shoot at coyotes at 4x (jackrabbits might be a different story). Not really a concern other than I can’t use the smaller increments offered at 4x zoom to zero. You don't have to shoot at 4x to change the zero settings at 4x. However, it is .18" at 3x and .14" at 4x, not a huge difference. Honestly, I tested the 2-4x zero increments earlier on my prototype and things seemed to always work for me. However, I have helped numerous people with the Super Yoter and zeroing, and when I hear comments like, "I made a .14" adjustment and it jumped like 2"+, it always seems like they are using 2,3, or 4x zoom. Should it work, yes, but I can tell you for the majority of people, I tell them to go to 1x before going into the zero menu. For virtually every person who told me the zero wasn't tracking correctly on adjustments, when they went to 1x, everything is good. The most the scope could be off if using 1x (.54") adjustments is .27" and that is worst case scenario. I just use 1x on all my adjustments now. I actually set the scope to 2x when zeroing, but 1x to adjust.

As for remounting, the LaRue mount has been the best RTZ I have ever used including Bobro, and ZroDlta. Make sure you are pushing the mount as far forward as it will go before locking it down.

Let me know how it goes.
 
Bering finally got a label to me on Tuesday. Fed ex 2 day must really be three day so they will have it on Friday. I will keep those interested posted.
 
Originally Posted By: KirschOriginally Posted By: WestTX 25/06Yes, the POI shifted exactly the same distance as I observed the crosshairs jumping when going to 4x. I almost never really shoot at coyotes at 4x (jackrabbits might be a different story). Not really a concern other than I can’t use the smaller increments offered at 4x zoom to zero. You don't have to shoot at 4x to change the zero settings at 4x. However, it is .18" at 3x and .14" at 4x, not a huge difference. Honestly, I tested the 2-4x zero increments earlier on my prototype and things seemed to always work for me. However, I have helped numerous people with the Super Yoter and zeroing, and when I hear comments like, "I made a .14" adjustment and it jumped like 2"+, it always seems like they are using 2,3, or 4x zoom. Should it work, yes, but I can tell you for the majority of people, I tell them to go to 1x before going into the zero menu. For virtually every person who told me the zero wasn't tracking correctly on adjustments, when they went to 1x, everything is good. The most the scope could be off if using 1x (.54") adjustments is .27" and that is worst case scenario. I just use 1x on all my adjustments now. I actually set the scope to 2x when zeroing, but 1x to adjust.

As for remounting, the LaRue mount has been the best RTZ I have ever used including Bobro, and ZroDlta. Make sure you are pushing the mount as far forward as it will go before locking it down.

Let me know how it goes.

Thank you Sir. I took some time to test again a couple nights ago and my mount definitely doesn’t hold zero, moving 2”-3” at 100 yards. Maybe I got a bad one, maybe my tension is wrong, or maybe my rail is off spec. I’m being very particular about pushing it forward before locking down. Also experienced the issue zeroing where elevation changed when I only adjusted windage.

All that said, I can live with all of that because of the grouping I’m seeing. I’m shooting tiny little ragged holes at 100 yards. That’s something I’ve never had with any of my other thermals. To me, that’s far and away the most important thing. I’m just going to leave the scope constantly mounted on the same rifle and be happy with it. Asking for total perfection out of any thermal is probably asking too much. Thanks again for taking the time to respond.
 
Got my super yoter back last Monday. They changed our the objective lens.

I put it back on the rifle that evening and shot 2 rounds at 100 yards. They were approx 4.5 inches low and left. Gave it 8 base power clicks up and right. Next shot was low left corner of handwarmer. I then moved it 2 base power clicks right and one up. That should have been a 1.08" horizontal adjustment but the next shot was 3" right of the previous. I shot one more and it was about .75" left of the previous shot. Neither of those were any higher than the shot after my first adjustment despite the one click up. The only base power adjustment I had left was 1 click back left. This adjustment put me 3/8" or so high and right of dead center in the hand warm so I decided to leave it alone. I've shot it 3 time since then in mid 30 to mid 50 degree temps and it has been dead on so all is well at the moment. The course adjusti has me a bit concerned but if it holds the zero I guess it doesn't matter to much as long as it will adjust to center.
 
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Hopefully it holds now Varminter. I just talked to the guy I got my SH from about holding zero, and he's sent his SY in for shutting off after each shot. He tried different power cords as well as internal disposables and nothing worked as it should and it cost him several dogs.

He said he doesn't test enough on paper to know if it holds perfect zero or not, he only checks if he starts missing coyotes. If my SH seems to wander around more than can be explained it might go in also.
 
I had my days messed up.....I said I got it back last Monday but it was Wednesday. They received it the Friday before and I had it back in my hands 3 business days later. It took a while to get a return label but once they got it they turned it right around. As far as the label issues I think there was an email issue combined with a communication issue with the previous person I originally spoke with. I had my Trail 2 back and I wanted to test it so I was unusually patient lol.
 
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My SH is going for a ride as soon as I can talk to Bering tomorrow and get a label. From my zero yesterday, new zero that is, today I shot one shot 2" low. I let it sit, came back out and put one 1" high, put up a different target and put one 2" right. lol this nonsense is curing my night hunting cravings fast.
 
204, this may not help you one bit, but anyway this is what I've found over the past 6 years of shooting thermals. I never, never try to sight my thermal in during bright sunshine days. I wait to shoot right after sundown, at night, or on a very cloudy day. Understand, I'm not saying that will make any difference for you, but I can only relate what I've found. My scopes would always shoot high with bright sunshine, usually about 3 inches high. If I adjusted for zero then the scope would shoot about 3 inches low after sundown, and I would have to re-adjust to the previous zero.

This happened several times, and so I just finally realized that whether it was the scope or the way I was holding the rifle during sunshine days that I was just wasting ammo. Now, I might try a shot or two just to be sure I was on paper during daylight but waiting until near dark for actual sight-in has made a difference for me.

If you have to send it in, hopefully they will find the issue and give you a quick turn-around.
 
That's interesting DU and I wondered if that type of thing doesn't happen. In this case though I'm afraid that isn't the case.
 
I shot my yoter yesterday in the mid 20 temps. It was a solid inch higher than it was zeroed. It was favoring the higher left side of the handwarmer center but yesterday it was over the handwarmer and inch or so above it's previous poi. When I get a chance I will shoot it warm then let it cool and shoot again. Probably will try one base power click down if it is still favoring high side or higher.
 
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Made time to test it this morning. Phone said 19 degrees.
First two shots at small tin foil square were with the gun straight out of the house and they were an inch under the 1" foil square and about an inch right
Let the gun cool on the bench for 10 or so minutes and next 3 shot were basically low left hand corner of foil.
Decided to try a handwarmer which I always fold in half. Shot two shots and they were touching and bottom left corner of handwarmer.
Yesterday it was a half inch over the handwarmer.
Getting just over 2" of vertical and just under 2" of horizontal shift. I'm not sure it's temp related either.
Not good!
 
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Dang it. What now? At 100 yds?

I've been in contact with bering about mine and waiting for a call back with suggestions. I don't know what else I could possibly try.

Locals are saying these aren't precision optics which is obvious but I need a little better than that to have confidence in a shot.
 
If those who are having some type of POI issue with their Bering thermals (or any thermals) have repeated the exact same test with glass scopes and it does not happen, contacting your dealer and/or Bering is what I highly recommend.

When I experienced POI shifts with my Trail, I didn’t appreciate pulsar questioning my gun, ammo, or my shooting skills. However, there are so many things that can impact accuracy and POI including ammo, rests, pressure, suppressor, carbon build up, and more. However, if all those things stay the same and only the scope is changed, this helps narrow it down. Once it is narrowed down to the scope, then all the other things many have mentioned comes into play. Just because a gun has always been sub-MOA, doesn't mean it is right now, so please repeat the same tests with a different optic. The other thing you may want to do is to try it on another gun. Not all rails are equal either, and it could be a rail issue.

I hate to mention this, but one other thing to consider is have someone else try to use your gun and repeat the same process. I just got off the phone with a custom gun manufacturer. He had a customer with the same type of issue. The gun manufacturer received the gun with the Bering Optics thermal and has experienced no POI shift whatsoever. I’m not saying this to belittle anyone to say it is the shooter, but that is one variable.

When you have repeated the test with a different optic, and potentially a different gun, then there isn't much else but to contact your dealer and the scope manufacturer.
 
Yes all my poi testing is done at 100 yards on the same solid bench in a lead sled solo.
I just got my unit back from bering
frown.gif

Two of test groups had bullets holes touching and quite different poi.

If woa had a barrel in stock I would put together an identical test rifle with day optics. It would be cheaper that all the ammo I burn testing these ever present issues.
 
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I agree completely thorough testing is in order. I even put the old scope on mine yesterday, it was still in rings so was zeroed pretty close. I shot a decent group with it off the upper. I did not leave it and test day after day.

All my testing has been off the tripod, sitting. Same exact way I would be in the field. I'm pretty confident I have an issue but admit there might be something I overlooked. I did check mount tightness, it's as tight as possible without using a tool to cam over. I thought maybe the rail is thinner than standard but the mount cams over easily when off the uppper. The mount is entirely on the upper rail clamping surface.

As a sidebar, I also check my day gun occasionally. Yesterday off sticks I aimed at my 200 yd 4" steel and center punched it as I expected to. I would like to gain that confidence in a Thermal but I don't know if it's possible now.
 
204 that reminds me my day scope off of this rifle is still in rings and could be easily slapped back on. I keep forgetting this yoter has a qd mount. Wouldn't be hard to test but I know darn good and well it isn't gonna shift like that.
 
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