help new reloaders

there is no better advise than this eliminate all distractions and keep your mind 100 percent on the task at hand. and write everything down.
 
Well I had nothing to do today so I decided to read this and thought I'd toss in my two cents.

We all develop our own routine. I prefer to do large batches, especially case prep, one step at a time. I include a note marking off the steps as I finish them. It may be a while before I do the next step and because of my records I know without a doubt I've completed a step or not. Once I had 1000 30-06 cases I knew I had measured the length on but didn't have a note so I did it again.

I also never touch primers. I started into reloading by loading 8mm mauser. I loaded 10 rounds at the starting load. When I was priming them I touched the primers. I had 1 squib in that batch of 10. I recognized something was off and cleared the bore before firing another round so no harm was done and I learned something and no longer touch primers. Sure it could have been a bad primer but after thousands and thousands of loads I haven't had another squib.

This was briefly mentioned but a paper clip with one end bent can be a very useful tool for inspecting cases. We all (assuming you read your manual) have heard about case heads separating. If running a paperclip inside the cases and tip hangs up on a "ridge" just above the web it's time to retire the case. But it can also hang up on dirt too. Here's a link for more info on it http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/case-head-separation-cause-diagnosis/

I didn't see this mentioned but I also RE-READ the info in the manuals from time to time. A refresher never hurts and you'll be surprised how often you'll pick up a new tid-bit of info.

I'm a big fan of headspace gauges and have one for every rifle cartridge I load.

Keep your bench clean. Some of the pictures people post of their bench make me cringe. Stacked 3 layers deep of different things seems like a bad idea to me.

I'll also say trust your gut. We all know sometimes there is something telling you that something is not quite right. I've thrown out some brass that despite all my careful inspection and found nothing wrong with my gut was still telling get rid of it. This included a decent size batch of 308 brass. Did I prevent an accident, I'll never know but I felt better by tossing it into the scrap bucket. There was another day I was going to load up a few rounds but I literally dropped everything I touched when I was getting my stuff out and ready to go. I took that as a sign that I wasn't meant to do any loading that day.

Don't reload when you're tired, sick, distracted, mad, ect. Only do it if you can give it your full, undivided attention. Also, once your a have a cold beverage you're done for the day.

I'll say this one separately but don't reload when you are in a hurry. If you are rushing to make ammo the night before a match, hunting trip, range time or whatever the case may be you're asking for trouble. Way to many problem threads start with "I was in a hurry". A little planning can save a lot of problems.
 
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This post is not a "reply" to the previous post, but is instead a reply I wrote re the Distinction of Standard vs. Magnum primers in .223 Remington...so I am posting it at Help New Reloaders for other new reloaders' benefit:

OK, I will solve the rest of the story here as none of the other posters [after me] have done so, and I am really disappointed in them...

The magnum primer is generally recommended for:
(a)igniting all ball powders as ball powder is "relatively"
harder to ignite than other [stick-type] powders and the magnum primer has a relatively much "hotter" flame than standard primers;
(b) especially recommended when igniting a ball powder in cold weather of 0 degrees F and below;
(c) igniting larger quantities of ball powder (think .338 Win. Mag, 22/250, 308 and 30/06, etc.)

See the older Speer manuals of 1970-90s vintage for a good discussion on this.

Thus, when switching to a magnum primer for a load previously worked up to a safe maximum, one should certainly back off the same powder say 10% and work back up to a safe level with the magnum primer, especially if the loads will be used in hot summer weather - i.e ground hog hunting here in OH - as the magnum primer develops higher pressure faster than the standard primer did with the same quantity of powder. So you can't just use a nmagnum primer withe the previously safe pressure load of the standard primer and expect the same pressure! You may very well get an overload/excess pressure, and you may not! Understanding this so far.

Notice none of the other posters have mentioned any of this...and I have other things to do than type...but have answered as these others do not seem to get it although you are the rookie reloader and they allegedly are "veterans"...

That being said, the CCI 400 standard primer has done very well at igniting my ball powder of choice (Winchester 748) so I have not opted to try the CCI 450 Magmum primer...in the .223 Remington as I hunt a lot in the summer and the 400 standard works fine. BUT, if hunting coyotes in sub-zero conditions I would do so with a Magnum 450 re-worked load. You will likely benefit with a more reliable, complete powder burn...relatively.

Oh, by the way, the BR-4 costs almost twice as much now as does the standard CCI 400 or the Magnum 450, so it is more than just "pennies" as one poster claimed. The BR-4 allegedly has better "quality control" manufacturing than the 400; let CCI tell you what are the other differences between it and the 400.
 
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A lot of info in here!

I've read through a lot of it over the past few days, very informative.

I'm about ready to start reloading, have read Lyman's twice now, and have most of the equipment at home, with the rest in the mail on the way. Was wondering what you guys would recommend as a second manual. I know there's a few good ones out there, but was wondering what ones have the most comprehensive load data from different manufacturers. Lyman gives various different bullet brands, that's more what i'm looking for rather than a brand specific manual that only covers their own products.
 
Pretty much Internet data if you want various brand data. The Hodgdon magazine deal gives quite a few choices but the website fleshes it out much better.

Greg
 
Originally Posted By: whitedogoneThree words.......

Case length gauge

actually 4 words - sheridan slotted ammunition gauge

this is a chamber gauge thats cut to SAAMI minimum chamber specs (which is just larger than maximum cartridge spec)

which can also function as a case gauge for checking sized brass.


if your brass (and ammo) fit this tool, any in-spec chamber will successfully work for your reloads.
 
Backy33 look in your reloading manual and look at the velocity each load is making and if powder A. is 34 grains of powder will go 3400fps and powder B will go that same velocity but with 30 grains of powder you know powder B is a more "powerful" powder just remember though they are all powerful no matter what and always remember to not mix up Magnum and standard primers
 
Hey guys I got a question and it's probably on here somewhere but I got a tikka heavy barrel Varmint 22-250, I would like to use 55g nosler ballistic tip with IMR4064, but I need the load data for it min to max I also want to know how accurate that load is an anyones input or any other loads you guys may know about that would work?
 
There is no way to tell for certain if the load will be accurate in your rifle. Your rifle may or may not like the combo. For the load data, check the Hodgdon website.
 
Originally Posted By: TKerchal8Hey guys I got a question and it's probably on here somewhere but I got a tikka heavy barrel Varmint 22-250, I would like to use 55g nosler ballistic tip with IMR4064, but I need the load data for it min to max I also want to know how accurate that load is an anyones input or any other loads you guys may know about that would work?

the only way to really know what your gun will like and be safe with is to do a proper load developement and shoot a series of groups of slowly increasing charges while watching for pressure signs as you work up.

if you're a new reloader, i strongly suggest you invest in a reloading manual. THere's a lot more to reloading that just repriming a case and stuffing a bullet over some powder that you found as "joes best load ever" online.

since you're looking at using nosler bullets, you can find some of their data online
http://load-data.nosler.com/load-data/22-250-remington/

or even better pickup a copy of Nosler's Reloading guide 8th edition.

its going for around $26 right now.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Nosler-Reloading-Manual/2223142.uts

there's more to a reloading manual than min and max powder information and other load data.

good luck and stay safe!
 
I'm just getting into reloading, and after reading the three major reloading handbooks (Nosler, Hornady and RCBS, I purchased maybe a little more than the basics, and I am working on a reloading room. I am single, 68 yrs old, and I have the luxury of an adequate space in a tool storage shed that I have insulated and put in an A/C unit. It gets pretty humid here in Fla!
My questions are many, but I'll start with a bench layout...those of you that have been doing this awhile have probably drilled several holes while moving presses and chargers, etc. I don't want my bench to look like Swiss cheese, so while a lot of this is personal preference, for a right handed person is there some recommendation as to where to locate the major elements???
 
Thanks so much for the list. It makes things very understandable...wish I lived in ID, or you lived in Florida, I'd like to lean over your shoulder at the bench. Also great to see your kids are involved in your hobby. I printed it off and will keep it at my new bench, until I get a routine down...Again thanks for taking the time to share...
 
Thanks so much for the list. It makes things very understandable...wish I lived in ID, or you lived in Florida, I'd like to lean over your shoulder at the bench. Also great to see your kids are involved in your hobby. I printed it off and will keep it at my new bench, until I get a routine down...Again thanks for taking the time to share...
 
Great thread!!! Great info new guy's read and read!!!

my opinion I believe a chronograph is a must!! it tells a lot only seen it mentioned a few times..

If you read most problems (yes I said most not all) can be solved by using moderate loads yotes can't side step 3200 fps vs 3700 etc

OAL gauge is a great tool read and read on its use...

I read one guy saying that treat crimped primer brass like regular brass please correct me if I'm wrong but I strongly disagree if you don't use a primer pocket de-crimper on crimped primer brass the edges of some primers can catch and fold edge of primer over are very hard to see at times mostly only way to tell by feel while priming...

There was very little discussion on crimped brass..and there is a lot of crimped .223 mil brass out there

My two cents...
 
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I am stealing your stuff. That is golden. John Holliger says there are "two things a high power shooter shouldn't own, a borescope and a chronograph". Pressure signs are just that.
I think the most important thing for me over time has been the keeping of records. I have started writing the date, load data, cartridge overall length and how many rounds I have loaded. If you are shooting one rifle in one caliber you keep track of amount of rounds through a tube. And if you had an accurate load but forget what it was you can go back to it. A notebook just for loading tab it for your calibers and it is gold. If you croak your kids can steal your load data instead of starting over. And as we age we need records. Trust ME!
Old powders of the same nomenclature are not the same as they were 20 yrs ago. You could load old 4831 and have a mild load. New stuff has more energy and will make a bomb out of a trusted load. Just my 2 cents for the day.
 
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