help new reloaders

Originally Posted By: RaspackThis may be a stupid question but here goes anyway. I have used up my first pound of RL22 in some 7mm rounds and love the powder. When I go to buy some more should I be concerned at all about the new powder having the same characteristics as the powder I just used? In other words should I back off a grain or so just to be safe or can I continue to load as I have been?

Two answers here. And which one is for you depends on how picky of a reloader/shooter you are.

Technically if the powder is from the same lot number (the powder is from the same batch from the factory) then you should be able to assume (there is that dangerous word again) that the powder will perform the same as your other container from the same lot number.

If the powders are from different lot numbers, then in theory, you should re-develop your load just to make sure it performs the same. This tends to be something a meticulous and picky reloader might do. But even then sometimes not. Frankly, I don't push the limits all that often when I load, so I'm not too concerned when I buy any of my usual powders, and I've yet to see any noticeable difference between one old container and one new container of ANY powder I've bought. I'm certain there are exceptions to the rule however.

That said, the above is possibly less true with commercial powders packaged for the reloading market. One pound of Bullseye, AA2230, U-Clays, W296, etc is likely almost the same, if not the same as a container you bought several years prior or after. Powders used in bulk, by ammunition companies, tend to come by the ton, and those companies tend to test each new batch individually as they would want to ensure the powder's performance before loading millions of rounds with it etc.

This is what I have read and been told by those smarter and more researched than myself. So just a friendly regurgitation for ya!
 
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I am brand new to reloading. I recently bought the hornady lock and load kit with the extras it did not have. I have only loaded for my rem 700 vtr in .243. I have only used varget so far because i heard it was an extreme powder that was not affected by temp. I have read several things that say if you want one powder that will work in almost everything you own then start with varget. I see that my gun seems to shoot best with the high end or max load in the Lyman book. The Lyman book goes "hotter" than the Hornady book seems to. Shouls this be a concern?
 
I am brand new to reloading. I recently bought the hornady lock and load kit with the extras it did not have. I have only loaded for my rem 700 vtr in .243. I have only used varget so far because i heard it was an extreme powder that was not affected by temp. I have read several things that say if you want one powder that will work in almost everything you own then start with varget. I see that my gun seems to shoot best with the high end or max load in the Lyman book. The Lyman book goes "hotter" than the Hornady book seems to. Shouls this be a concern?
 
Originally Posted By: triggertapI am brand new to reloading. I recently bought the hornady lock and load kit with the extras it did not have. I have only loaded for my rem 700 vtr in .243. I have only used varget so far because i heard it was an extreme powder that was not affected by temp. I have read several things that say if you want one powder that will work in almost everything you own then start with varget. I see that my gun seems to shoot best with the high end or max load in the Lyman book. The Lyman book goes "hotter" than the Hornady book seems to. Shouls this be a concern?

Varget is extremely popular and for good reason. The only way to verify if it is temp. sensitive for you is to shoot them over a chronograph. Otherwise, if you aren't seeing pressure signs from your brass/primers, or noticeable differences in POI/POA during season changes I wouldn't worry about temp. sensitivity much. If you are loading to the very maximum charges recommended, then yes, you better do your due diligence and figure this out.

As far as different manuals having different ranges, that is very common. Each company has their own "risk management" level for limiting their liability. Each company also has different test rigs, equipment, etc. It is a really good idea to take your load data from multiple manuals, as there is often errors in printed manuals. Plus you can sort of take the "average" from multiple manuals instead of trusting just one.

Good questions!
 
Quote:plus you can sort of take the "average" from multiple manuals instead of trusting just one....Excellent Advice...
I'd still start at least a full grain lower than any published max. load and work up carefully...
Very carefully when you start arriving at "Max" as all it takes is a weak or overused piece of brass and you have a serious potential for a problem/injury...
 
Yep, you must work up a load in any rifle! Case in point, my Savage 12 LPV has an extremely efficient (tight) chamber right out of the box from the factory. In .223 Rem.

If I load at the middle of the range in either my Hornady, Lyman or Speer manuals, I consistently get high pressure signs such as cratered primer, pierced primer and flattened headstamps. Talking with several reloaders MUCH more experienced than me, they said back down enough to eliminate those dangerous pressure signs and try it. That rifle takes a full grain UNDER the Minimum recommended charge in two out of my three manuals, and over a chrono the fps is as fast as a normal load.

Goes to show that working up carefully is something you cant skip. Might work 75% of the time, but you will get caught. Could have been holding a hand grenade in another situation like this, just going straight to hot loads.
 
Pressures will peak faster in a smaller caliber than in a larger one. Just because you can make .5 grain jumps in a 30-06 DON"T try to do it with a 17 fireball.
 
As others have said, reference several sources and you'll see different data! Back in the 80's, I developed a load development chart to be filled in later by referencing various manuals. Here is a "workup" for my Remington 700 VS .308 from the fall of '94. I was looking for a load for 168 gr. bullets and had two powders on hand that were in six different manuals on my shelf. Not only are the numbers written down for starting and maximum loads, but I plotted them out graphically for a visual.

Notice that the Hornady manual has a maximum charge of IMR-4895 that is 39.5 grains and both the Speer and Hodgdon manuals have 40 grains as a starting load! Well, they are using different test rifles, lots of powder and bullets. Primer differences, atmospheric conditions differ, barrel dimension tolerances, brass volume, etc.

What this demonstrates is that you should reference several sources when working up a load. Also, imagine what would have happened if somebody only had the Speer book and didn't heed the advice to start with the starting load. For example, "they show 40 to 44 grains, so I'll start in the middle at 42 grains". That load of 42 grains is maximum in Sierra and Hodgdon and over max. in Hornady. Not a good thing.

devchart.jpg
 
This is all good stuff...full of valuable information. I'm just thinking about getting into reloading and have already picked up valuable pointers! Thanks guys!!! Keep on writing about do's and don'ts/pro's and con's on the subject.
 
The reloading manuals may seem expensive when you see them on the shelf. But they are well worth the money. I have learned a ton from Hornady,Speer,and others.
They have great data. But even more they explain how everything works. The money spent will be enjoyable for years of shooting.
 
I was taught to read the loading manual like my life depended on it because it really does . My uncle started me in reloading when i was 17 years old & i have been reloading eversince & now i am 49 years old not saying that i know more than any of the reloaders who has been reloading as long as i have iam still learning new things One thing is for IRON CLAD SURE GO BY WHAT YOR LOADING MANUAL STATES & START AT THE START CHARGE & WORK YOUR WAY TILL YOU FIND A LOAD THAT YOU GUN LIKES & if any of you new reloaders have any questions feel free to ask any of us I would love to help someone out & if i don't know the answer we will find someone who does PLEASE follow your loading manual & it will ensure that reloading is a wonderful thing to do or it very well could be the last thing you do . BE SAFE & ENJOY RELOADING !!
 
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my advice isn't worth much but here it is:

Buy a $15 Lee reloading manual and read it. The amount of info in it (besides the load data obviously) is good to know and you'll be ahead of 2/3 of the general shooting population. There are things you have never even considered going on in that chamber every time you pull the trigger and that manual will shed some light on it. Not to mention you will grasp the concept of reloading much faster!

ENJOY!

Oh yeah, start with a single stage press for rifle, its all you'll ever really need for hunting/target shooting
 
Im new to reloading and all your guys advise is sound. I work on Tugboats on the west coast and Alaska. I have lots of time to read on the boat so I bought 3 reloading manuals and read them all 3 times before I even started to reload. Working up loads I will start at the bottom and work up to max but have not gone past it. I wiegh every charge messure every case and check the C.O.L on every round so they are all the same. It takes me forever to reload a bunch, but I enjoy it! Ive learned some good habits from reading those books, and my wife and kids know when daddy's in the man room im not to be bother'd.
 
This years marks my 25th year as a reloader.

The single most important piece of advice I can give to new as well as experienced reloaders:


DO NOT BE DISTRACTED = REMOVE ALL DISTRACTIONS FROM YOUR RELOADING ENVIRONMENT.


You are assembling "mini-bombs" so to speak, 1 grain or even a few tenths of a grain separates a "hot load" from a small bomb with you having a front row seat.
 
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