Baiting


Originally Posted By: aberry223Hay their 6mm06 I was on eBay and I found this( led solar powered motion activated light)all so the light is a flood light!!!!!!! is this a good light set up that is cheap for just starting out? And on my rifle I have the XLR 250


Aberry223, I haven't used a light of that sorts so I really can't respond as to how it might work. I didn't see a link to the light. If you want to post the link, perhaps someone on the forums might be able to respond about it.

The lights I use are infrared lights. As such, they do not cast a light upon the ground that you can see. Only the night vision equipment, ie scope and camera, can see it. I haven't used any type of other light that casts a beam to the target. I have an XLR 250 but have not used it for that purpose. DoubleUp has used his with some success.

Just guessing here, but the coyotes can probably get adjusted to the light in time, but they may initially be scared of it. The coyotes at my bait site have noticed the light apparatus in the tree overhead and are scared by the appearance of it, and it wasn't even turned on. Those lights are infrared too.

My one IR light powered by the deep cycle battery burns all night, off in the morning via photocell, then back on at night, but it has no illumination cast upon the ground. Only the red glow can be seen similar to what an IR trail camera does. My thinking is that if the light is on all the time, then the coyotes will get used to it quicker, as opposed to a light that only turns on when they are there. Maybe I'm wrong, just my thoughts. I've noticed coyotes jump and get scared sometimes when the trail camera turns on. I've also heard of people shooting them from underneath street lights, which are on all the time at night.

I'm sorry that I can't give you more information about the light you asked about, but if you ever decide to go with a night vision scope, then I can help you with that.


 
6mm06 that light would come on at dusk and be on till dawn I be leave that's the order but it came on all through the night.Then with the motion sensor when that was set off the light got briter
 
You guys have been quiet way too long. Don't get discouraged during this long hot summer. Cooler weather and more coyotes are on the way.

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Jeff,

I think I got the pants at Wal-Mart some years back as I recall. They are just simple cotton pants. The shirt was given to me by a friend. I'm not sure exactly what pattern it is. I just used it because it was comfortable, but didn't need camo since I was hunting from the cabin.

Multicam is a fine pattern. I've got one good set of that, including a hat, but would like more. It works really well in the groundhog fields too.


 
How about a tutorial of the antenna/jack mod on transmitter and receiver?? What is antenna made of?? Did anyone consider putting a light with or in place of beeper that you could visually see with no noise while awake?? This thread has my interest. This is good stuff!!!
 

Kenny,

The Driveway Patrol receiver already has a light that will illuminate, so no need to install a light.

DoubleUp is the teacher for this project. I'm just enjoying his modification.

I agree 100%. This is good stuff. Baiting is not as easy as just throwing out a piece of meat, then sitting back and shooting coyotes. I have learned that the hard way over the last two seasons. There's a lot of work and preparation, plus time involved with it that too many don't realize. Many people look down on us for baiting, without ever having seriously tried it. For me to have any kind of success on coyotes here, given the limited land I have to hunt, as well as lower density of coyotes, baiting is what keeps me going. I still love calling and much prefer that, but baiting allows me to find some success that otherwise I most likely would not have.

All of us look forward to your posts and sharing of how you go about it, and we wish you success.


 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
Kenny,

The Driveway Patrol receiver already has a light that will illuminate, so no need to install a light.

DoubleUp is the teacher for this project. I'm just enjoying his modification.

I agree 100%. This is good stuff. Baiting is not as easy as just throwing out a piece of meat, then sitting back and shooting coyotes. I have learned that the hard way over the last two seasons. There's a lot of work and preparation, plus time involved with it that too many don't realize. Many people look down on us for baiting, without ever having seriously tried it. For me to have any kind of success on coyotes here, given the limited land I have to hunt, as well as lower density of coyotes, baiting is what keeps me going. I still love calling and much prefer that, but baiting allows me to find some success that otherwise I most likely would not have.

All of us look forward to your posts and sharing of how you go about it, and we wish you success.




Thanks! Maybe DoubleUp will see this and chime in!!
 
Kenny, here is a pictue of the receiver unit taken apart. It is held together with four small screws, so you will need a fairly small phillips screwdriver to take the screws out. There are two in the battery compartment and two at the top on the receiver unit. You can see where the white antenna wire needs to come out of the side of the unit. When you get the units and open them up the antenna wire goes up over the top of the green circuit board and around the other side. Just work that loose carefully as it is held with hot glue or silicon. Also be careful taking the unit apart because the glue may be slightly holding the front and back if it dripped when they applied it. I used a piece of 12 guage household solid 3 strand wire to make the antennas for the sender and receiver. I cut a piece about 20 inches long and then used the black piece for the outside sending unit and the white piece for the inside receiving unit.
Picture037.jpg


Drill a 1/16" hole in the side for the antenna wire to come out after you get the wire loose from over the circuit board. Take a little care to not break the wire. Strip about half an inch of insulation off the antenna wire and do the same with one end of the 12 guage copper wire. Wrap the antenna wire around the exposed copper wire and solder them together. You can then slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the splice and shrink it down for a nice fit.

If you want or need to use earphones in place of the speaker, cut the red and black wires near the speaker and remove it. Drill a hole large enough for the wires to go through where the speaker was and then solder in a 3.5mm female plug to accept the volume control and earphones. The earphones will be too loud in your ears without the volume control.

Picture024.jpg

This is the unit put back together on a little stand I built for this one since it runs off household current with the adapter. The first unit I just rigged for batteries, so I have it covered with or without household power.

Picture026.jpg

This is a side view of the sending uint mounted in the Sterilite Box. I used a board narrow enough that the mounting strap will slide between the plastic container and the board. I also use a small wedge to adjust the angle up or down as needed. Those boxes are available at Walmart. You do the same thing for the sending unit taking the antenna wire loose the same way and drilling a 1/16" hole out the side of the unit.

Same unit with a front view. If you look closely you may see that I drilled 4 1/4" holes on the front bottom of the container to let any rain or snow drain out.
Picture027.jpg

And finally the unit with the cover on it. I like the way the lid snaps in place on the top and bottom. On the sending unit I used a litte silicon to seal around the hole in the side of the unit to help keep it watertight. I also put a little around where the antenna comes out of he plastic housing to keep water out there. And finally I used a lttle liguid electric tape at the top and bottom of the antenna on the sending unit to keep corrison from getting inside the insulation.
Picture029.jpg


I hope this will help you out a little. If you have more questions just let me know. 6mm06 can give you the particulars on the e-bay site where he got the volume control. In fact I think it is in some of the tutorials he did back a few pages ago. We'll be looking forward to your posts, input, and pictures.
smile.gif
 
Thank You. This will be a near future project!!


Originally Posted By: DoubleUpKenny, here is a pictue of the receiver unit taken apart. It is held together with four small screws, so you will need a fairly small phillips screwdriver to take the screws out. There are two in the battery compartment and two at the top on the receiver unit. You can see where the white antenna wire needs to come out of the side of the unit. When you get the units and open them up the antenna wire goes up over the top of the green circuit board and around the other side. Just work that loose carefully as it is held with hot glue or silicon. Also be careful taking the unit apart because the glue may be slightly holding the front and back if it dripped when they applied it. I used a piece of 12 guage household solid 3 strand wire to make the antennas for the sender and receiver. I cut a piece about 20 inches long and then used the black piece for the outside sending unit and the white piece for the inside receiving unit.
Picture037.jpg


Drill a 1/16" hole in the side for the antenna wire to come out after you get the wire loose from over the circuit board. Take a little care to not break the wire. Strip about half an inch of insulation off the antenna wire and do the same with one end of the 12 guage copper wire. Wrap the antenna wire around the exposed copper wire and solder them together. You can then slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the splice and shrink it down for a nice fit.

If you want or need to use earphones in place of the speaker, cut the red and black wires near the speaker and remove it. Drill a hole large enough for the wires to go through where the speaker was and then solder in a 3.5mm female plug to accept the volume control and earphones. The earphones will be too loud in your ears without the volume control.

Picture024.jpg

This is the unit put back together on a little stand I built for this one since it runs off household current with the adapter. The first unit I just rigged for batteries, so I have it covered with or without household power.

Picture026.jpg

This is a side view of the sending uint mounted in the Sterilite Box. I used a board narrow enough that the mounting strap will slide between the plastic container and the board. I also use a small wedge to adjust the angle up or down as needed. Those boxes are available at Walmart. You do the same thing for the sending unit taking the antenna wire loose the same way and drilling a 1/16" hole out the side of the unit.

Same unit with a front view. If you look closely you may see that I drilled 4 1/4" holes on the front bottom of the container to let any rain or snow drain out.
Picture027.jpg

And finally the unit with the cover on it. I like the way the lid snaps in place on the top and bottom. On the sending unit I used a litte silicon to seal around the hole in the side of the unit to help keep it watertight. I also put a little around where the antenna comes out of he plastic housing to keep water out there. And finally I used a lttle liguid electric tape at the top and bottom of the antenna on the sending unit to keep corrison from getting inside the insulation.
Picture029.jpg


I hope this will help you out a little. If you have more questions just let me know. 6mm06 can give you the particulars on the e-bay site where he got the volume control. In fact I think it is in some of the tutorials he did back a few pages ago. We'll be looking forward to your posts, input, and pictures.
smile.gif
 
I'm glad to see this baiting thread is still going strong.

I had a little bit of good luck this past week and a half and thought I'd share the results.

The Bait

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The Prey

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The Bait

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The Prey

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The second coyote is NOT bloated, he is full of pork!
 

Hey, that's great Justin. Nice bait, more like fun hunting to me.

Did you get the coyotes day or night?

Tell us about your rifle and load. Looks like a Winchester.


 
Originally Posted By: ScalloperI have been using dog food at my bait site just to keep the flies and smell down as it only 70yds from the house. Well I shot a male on the 21st then the 25th at 1am the beeper went off. I got up but nothing. It went off another 3 times before daylight but I could not get the coyote to stand for a good shot while using my 250 kill light. So on saterday night the beeper goes off at 11pm. I opened the window but just sat there not turning on the light. The beeper went off for about 3 min, then I thought the coyote would be setteled in for a good kill shot. So when I turned on the kill light I got a little surprise. A very large boar black bear. He did not have a care in the world. It did not even look at me while I had the light on. It was pritty cool. I watched it for another 5min then he walked off.

I have had a lot of luck with dry dog food. With both Coyote and Fox. I like it because they have to stand there and eat. They can't take it away and then come back for more like big bait.

Here is a video of my dog food pile:

 
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Ron,

That's a great video. I wish my coyotes were that relaxed with the light. Mine are even afraid of lights in the tree, even when they aren't illuminated.
 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
Ron,

That's a great video. I wish my coyotes were that relaxed with the light. Mine are even afraid of lights in the tree, even when they aren't illuminated.



Thanks, I let them get used to it. Our season opens Oct. 1st so I'll start baiting under the lights about the 2nd week of Sept. They get used to the light by the time the season opens. It also blinds them to me. They can't see me over or under the lights. They'll smell me before they'll see me.
 
About 40 yards and I use both. I have a bad back/neck so I can't sit in the stand very long. I also use the blind when I see one from the house. I get dressed and sneak into the blind right below the stand.

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It seems the varmints are only moving around during about the first 30 minutes of daylight here, it just gets too hot and muggy after that. Both were shot right after first light.

My usual baiting sight is obstructed by wast high weeds and overgrowth so I have moved it temporarily a couple hundred yards away to the edge of a field that I can see from my shooting bench. The bait distance is 255 yards, chained to a fence post.

The rifle I've been using is a Winchester M70 in .243win. shooting factory 95gr. Ballistic Silver Tips. The scope is a 3-9x40 Burris.
 
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you bait to trap them... winters here can be nasty...when hunting season rolls around grab the carcasses and take to an area of coyote travel and set it out. hunt that in the winter.. youll have results...bobcat fox yote fisher bear an even panthers have been seen like this. furs at its prime at that time!
 
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