I have ported two, a BPS10 and a rifled Mossberg slug barrel . The smoothbore BPS barrel was a piece of cake. Because of the rifling, the Mossberg was a big PITA. I won't even go into the process of what I had to do to remove the burrs from the rifled barrel.
But, it really did reduce the recoil and muzzle jump on the Mossberg. I can't say I saw any appreciable difference in the BPS10, though.
In a smooth bore, it's simple. Just layout and drill a series of holes in the barrel, on each side of the rib, evenly spaced and use a brake cylinder hone to remove the burrs from the inside of the bore. Then, you can have the barrel reblued, or just use touch up bluing on the holes. A milling machine works best as you can clamp the barrel in the vise and keep the holes lined up easier. I used a .061" center drill to drill the holes, because the center drill wouldn't wander on the curved surface of the barrel, and followed up with a .090" drill to open the holes up to the desired diameter.
However, I wouldn't do it again. When using loads with slow burn rate powders, you get damage to the wad skirts on one side of the wad. This can cause the wad to tip on exiting the barrel and degradation of pattern quality. Its sort of like having a nick on the base of a bullet. With fast burn rate powders, this doesn't seem to occur as the pressures have dropped sufficiently by the time the wad passes the porting. But, with the slow burn rate powders used with steel shot and lead turkey loads, it can.
Here's a couple of pics. of what I am talking about. These were from the ported BPS10. These were steel shot loads.