What do you look for in a 'hunting knife'?

B

BHShaman

New member
Did not see an 'off topic' forum.
Not sure where to place this.

Hi folks.
I'm working with/for (on the side) some guys trying to start up a mid-tech knife business.
They each make full on custom knives, but are wanting to create a 'standard line' to give buyers something they don't have to wait weeks/months to get.

They have their first knife done in starting production (all hand finished).
They have their plans for their second knife as well.

Now.. on to the 3rd knife.
They are thinking about a 'hunting' knife, but finding that 'hunting knife' means a lot of different things to different people.

What do YOU think?
What do you consider when you think of a 'hunting knife'?
How much are you willing to pay for a mid/high end user?

Links, pictures, or descriptions to illustrate what you are thinking of are welcome.
 
What do you consider when you think of a 'hunting knife'?
I greatly consider the knife maker himself...does he actually make his own blades or does he buy them from a distributor. I also like to know who the knife maker uses for the "heat treating" process.

How much are you willing to pay for a mid/high end user?
$300.
 
I'll give it a go.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif

I like good steel with good edge retention for starters. For example....this season I have been using a couple knives from a custom maker in S30V with an RC of ~60, I used the skinner on 9 deer with nary a need of a touch up. I did touch up the edge at the end of season though, and found it fairly easy to bring it back to "spooky" sharp...obviously this will vary for people.

I also like a smaller knife than most...I prefer a 2.5-3.5" blade for most purposes, other than cleaning fish. I don't like a big guard (quillion) either...I like to be able to choke up on the blade if need be.

Handle materials....I think Micarta is hard to beat for overall utility use, and it would be my first choice.

I don't much care for alot of belly in a knife either. I don't care for "Scandi" grinds...

I guess I'm pretty fussy when it comes to knives and I don't have an issue with paying a few hundred dollars for a knife that fits my wants.....

As far as pics...I have quite a few knives, but 2 stand out. They are both wonderful at their jobs they are designed for.

HEre is my favorite skinner that was mentioned above. It has a 2.5" blade and is all I need, I do wish I'd have had it built with micarta scales instead of horn scales though.

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This is my favorite all-arounder...I've used it alot and it shows.

100_1352.jpg

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I'd be interested in seeing some pics of what you have in mind.
 
I use a Knives of Alaska Jaeger, its a boning knife. I like it because its small and I can choke up on the blade when skinning. Its made of ATS34 steel and has great edge retention. I used it to gut, quarter and skin a cow elk without touching up the blade. It has hard rubber grips with finger grooves and a lanyard hole. I have many knives and I always use this one for hunting and fishing.
 
Quote:
What do you consider when you think of a 'hunting knife'?
I greatly consider the knife maker himself...does he actually make his own blades or does he buy them from a distributor. I also like to know who the knife maker uses for the "heat treating" process.

How much are you willing to pay for a mid/high end user?
$300.



This is their first, they made it as a general user and it is not 'stylized' as a hunting knife. It looks like they are in your ball park for pre-requirements. All parts are US Made, they even turn their own removable pins. Paul Bos, of Buck Knives, is doing their heat treating.

These are the prototypes:

Overall Length of about 8", Blade length 3.75" with 3.5" sharpened
D2 Steel, 1/8" thick, with various finish options
Micarta Grips in various colors
Removable Pins for maintaining swapping grips
Kydex or Leather sheaths with color options

But, for the 'hunting' knife, it looks like the responses so far are looking for something leaning towards almost a skinner *but not caper*.
 
The length looks good.
I have always liked a "semi drop pt" the best.

Grips...although wood or bone is nice, I do prefer a syn. material, like a soft rubber or something similar. Lots easier for me to hang on to when field dressing.

The gray finish looks good also.

Guess that's it for me.
 
Quote:
What do I look for? I look for the name BOB DOZIER on my knives!




/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif

That's one way to do it!!!
 
Dozier has a long history of making fine knives, so there is no guess work about the quality, craftmanship, or materials used in his knife making. Dozier knives are designed to be working knives. They are ergonomic and fit in the hand and feel like an extension of your own digits. This hard to capture feel is important when actually using a knife for extended periods. Lots of knives feel alright for minor cutting chores. It's when you really, really, use a knife hard and for extended time frames that you really appreciate a knife for its design. Dozier has captured that feel. Dozier is literally world reknown for his heat treatment process. The man has a magic way of milking the utmost performance from his steel. Dozier uses the best blade steels, D2 and S30V, for the most part, though he will work in other steels upon request. The grinds on Doziers are meant to be high performance cutting tools. Combined with the heat treatment, they will flat out get hair poppin', scary sharp, and hold that edge through a whole bunch of cutting. The fit, finish, and quality of work is second to none. His sheaths are topnotch and there is as much care put into making the sheath as the knife itself. And well there should be, the sheath is a critical part of the pairing.

Then there is the Dozier family. What a pleasure to talk with and work with when ordering a new custom knife. The Dozier family is first class all the way and treat the customer with high regard and true respect. They love to talk knives and outdoors uses with their customers, and it isn't idle time or just bs'ing - the Doziers are interested in the people that buy their knives. No detail is too small to discuss with them, they'll take care of you. I could go on, however, the Dozier family and their products have earned my respect. I have nearly two dozen of their custom blades right now and will buy more in the future.

This is not meant as disrespectful to you or your post. You asked what I look for in a knife, and there it is. There is the product, and the people behind it, for me to consider. I've had many other makers blades, some are still around. Most are gone to make room for more of my favorite makers wares. Hope this is helpful to you in your research. Good luck to you...
 
NO disrespect taken.

Please though, let me check them off though so I can pass back comments to the makers/owners.


Quote:
Dozier has a long history of making fine knives, so there is no guess work about the quality, craftmanship, or materials used in his knife making.



- Scott Tanguay is a maker that generally sells on eBay and Bladeforums.
- Lamont Coombs Jr. though is a published Knife Maker and is in the current "Art of the Knife - 2008" table book.
- Chris Kravitt (contracted) is a published sheath maker as well.

They have the credentials individually, but DO need to establish their name as a business group.

Quote:
Dozier knives are designed to be working knives. They are ergonomic and fit in the hand and feel like an extension of your own digits.



Feel is subjective I think, but I'll give DKC a nod here.
I've handled the knife and it feels good. It is not just cut out based on an imagined profile. Scott and Lamont took their combined knowledge having produced 'working' knives and profiled this one extensively before committing to the design.

Quote:
Dozier is literally world reknown for his heat treatment process.



I'd say that Paul Bos, of Buck, who is doing their heat treating is not too shabby. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Quote:
The man has a magic way of milking the utmost performance from his steel. Dozier uses the best blade steels, D2 and S30V,



American made D2. I don't know there source, but would like to assume they did not scrimp here.

Quote:
The fit, finish, and quality of work is second to none.



They 'look' good. I'm not an expert, but the finish was all 'tight'. The one thing I suggested was that since they are using replacement pins, that they send a single pack Loc-tite in case customers want to apply it. Being able to break down the knife and clean the D2 has its advantages.

Quote:
His sheaths are topnotch and there is as much care put into making the sheath as the knife itself. And well there should be, the sheath is a critical part of the pairing.



Kravitt does good work, but again...
I don't order too many custom knife sheaths, which is what is being made. No factory machine cutting and stitching the sheaths, Chris does each one by hand.

Quote:
Then there is the Dozier family. What a pleasure to talk with and work with when ordering a new custom knife. The Dozier family is first class all the way and treat the customer with high regard and true respect. They love to talk knives and outdoors uses with their customers, and it isn't idle time or just bs'ing - the Doziers are interested in the people that buy their knives. No detail is too small to discuss with them, they'll take care of you. I could go on, however, the Dozier family and their products have earned my respect. I have nearly two dozen of their custom blades right now and will buy more in the future.



I think they hope to get there. Lamont especially is well known for his one off customs. He is now trying to provide that same quality and insight into a more cost effective offering. I looked up the Hunter Doziers and they were 2x this offering. Maybe there is space in there for another suppplier. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Thank you very much for your response.
I'll feed it back to them, as well as point them to this thread of course.
 
I did not post the link, since I did not want to violate any spamming rules. Hopefully Mods can see this is an honest request for feedback and not a sneaky advert. I am not a business partner or sales person (they have none). But, I am working with them to solicit web feedback, since they have been pretty limited to BF as their source on the web.

I've been lurking here for a while now. Trying to make time to go after Coyote with a bow. Coyote, Bear, and Bobcat are on my list. Coyote and Bobcat just need some time, which is hard to find with kids. The bear will take money, of which I have little right now, kids use that up. Daycare is SUPER expensive.

For a more complete understanding of their process to date and to maybe expand on your feedback.

http://www.downeastknife.com/blog/
 
Hey, everybody has to start somewhere, right? Good luck to them in their venture. There's always room for quality knifemakers in the field.
 
All your points are well taken.
I was not playing point / counter point.
Just stating where they seem to be.
Way off Doziers rep, but knowing that people do pay that much for a user shows there is a market over $100. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I like a knife that stays sharp the longest. So far, knives by Cutco (http://www.cutco.com/products/product.jsp?itemGroup=1769) hold an edge longer than any knife I've ever used. The serrated edge on my knife has not be sharpened since I bought it over 15 years ago. I've cleaned over a hundred deer and hogs with it and it's still sharp. You can open up the rib cage and cut the pelvis with ease. Cutco will sharpen it for free and you just pay postage. (Something like $5.00)
 
I like knives with around a 3 1/2" blade either drop or clip point, and a steel that will hold an edge and still be very easy to sharpen quickly. I like to go with someone whose work I have either seen or used or comes highly recommended. I would pay around $400 or so.
 
I prefer to carry two knives minimum. One is a dedicated skinner and the other can be a typical "hunting" style blade. Most of the time I add a filet style or boning knife as well.

There's a lot to be said for high RC and edge holding blades, but I prefer mine lower RC and don't mind giving them a touch up while working on an animal. It only takes a minute, literally.

Buck is too hard! I had one snap in half when needed very badly in SE Asia. Don't much matter how well it holds an edge if most of the edge is laying on the ground!
 
I like the overall look of those prototypes, but would prefer a bit shorter blade. That 2nd Ingram above(#2?) would be my next one if his wait time wasn't out to 3 years or so. It was 6 months when I got my #1 a couple of years ago. Who knows, I might be 6 ft. under in 3 years?
 
I like a relatively small knife with about a 2.5-3.5 inch blade and a handle about 3.5-4 inches long. I like the handle to have a bit of a swell toward the butt. As far as blade shape I like a drop point with the point being at a point slightly above the centerline of the handle. More or less a clsic Loveless style drop point. For handle material I'll go with Stabalised wood or for less money micarta or G-10. I prefer all metal to be at least a satin polish. The biggest deal breaker is the type of steel used, and the quality of the heat treat. In a production knife ATS-34 is still a good way to go. I also like M2 it takes and holds a scary sharp edge for a long time. I have one knife in D@ and you will never get me to buy another one that steel. I really had to go to a steep angle on it to keep the edge from microchipping and dulling out fast. I actually have a couple of blades made from O-1 that hold a better edge. I am working on making another knife using some S60V that I've had around for a while in a similar pattern to my D2 blade as I like the shape.

I'd go up to between 150 and 200 for a good production knife, much higher and I feel it's worth it to go to a custom knife.
 
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