lungpopper
New member
what is the best price anyone has found for mounting a bobcat,,,any pics would also be great,thanks Mark
best price to mount a bobcat?
- Thread starter lungpopper
- Start date
Mickthetaxidermist
New member
Best price? I'm assuming you mean the lowest price? For that, you may want to consider purchasing a kit and mounting it up yourself. Otherwise, you might be able to find someone just getting started that needs the practice and get it as cheaply as the cost of materials plus $10 an hour. The best price I've found on a lifesize cat mount is $235....but then again, it's on a 20 year old price list,lol.
You may want to do a search on taxidermy.net. Follow the link to taxidermist's web sites, and your state. If you're looking for a great mount, be prepared to pay for it.Like any fine craftsmen, good taxidermists don't work for pennies. Good luck
You may want to do a search on taxidermy.net. Follow the link to taxidermist's web sites, and your state. If you're looking for a great mount, be prepared to pay for it.Like any fine craftsmen, good taxidermists don't work for pennies. Good luck
Helipilotm
New member
I agree with mick. If you want a full body mount it is going to cost you. If you cant afford a full body I suggest getting it rugged or even tanned. You will be sorry if you get a cheap full body. I have seen some nice big cats that looked horrible. Its sad to see a nice pelt get ruined. My .02
MAUMAU
New member
I think if you are fortunate enough to secure a beautiful Bobcat, it pays to have it mounted by a qualified Taxidermist that has done Cats before.
Trying to save money, and having an unqualified individual do a Full Mount, will only end in disappointment. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Some Taxidermists can do a less than perfect job on many Animals and the Customer may not really notice.(or care)
Doing a less than perfect job on a Cat will be very obvious, even to the untrained eye.
Have it mounted by a gifted Taxidermist and you will be thankful that you spent a little more. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
Trying to save money, and having an unqualified individual do a Full Mount, will only end in disappointment. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Some Taxidermists can do a less than perfect job on many Animals and the Customer may not really notice.(or care)
Doing a less than perfect job on a Cat will be very obvious, even to the untrained eye.
Have it mounted by a gifted Taxidermist and you will be thankful that you spent a little more. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
cwbycrshr
New member
I agree...spend the money on a good taxidermist. The guy I use is around $650 (his price list is a little out dated). He has gone up due to high demand and he is wanting to slow down! He does tons of mounts for SCI guys.
Check him out at:
a and r taxidermy
The cost of poor taxidermy...no offense to SMS, but those are some poor looking mounts (reminds me of womens hair in the 80's /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
scary cats
Check him out at:
a and r taxidermy
The cost of poor taxidermy...no offense to SMS, but those are some poor looking mounts (reminds me of womens hair in the 80's /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
scary cats
trailhound
New member
Just asked my local taxidermist how much to mount a cat. $250 with a scene included. He does real good work. He does it for a living and has for 25+ years. He is to honest and does not like to charge what he could really get. Don't find many people like that anymore.
Mickthetaxidermist
New member
Ok guys,
Here's a rough breakdown of what it cost a taxidermist today to mount a large bobcat with a closed mouth, using high grade componants. By using bargain basement materials, and eliminating commercial tanning and using an inferior dry preserving powder, a taxidermist can reduce the cost by 40% to just over $125.
form $80.00
eyes $14.25
earliners $15.25
misc. supplies $20.00
supply shipping $25.00
tanning $35.00
tanning shipping $20.00
Total Cost $209.50
Now we'll include a "ballpark average" of 20 hours to completion, from check-in to finishing.(Shops that operate on a whack em & pack em basis can cut the time in half,while top level taxidermists obsessed with details can easily add 10 hours)
Trailhound, assuming your "successful taxidermist" opts for the cheaper materials,and cuts his time to minimum, it means he's working for $12.50 / hr. However, once you factor in other expenses; things like insurance (both health and business), shop expenses (even home based shops incur extra expenses), taxes (yup we have to pay taxes just like everyone else), equipment replacement costs (nothing lasts forever), hopefully have a little left over to put aside for a rainy day (you guys call it a 401k)... then your taxidermist is likely working for less wages than at Micky D's. He must have a very understanding wife with incredible benefits.
While I agree that some taxidermists are better at some subjects than others,I feel that most reputable and established taxidermists will avoid taking in subjects they don't feel comfortable with. I see posts here like "cats are difficult to mount" here a lot, but the fact is, they're NOT especially difficult to mount. Consider this, cats have pronounced facial features and spotting that really aids a taxidermist with skin allignment. Couple that with a short, stout tail,realitivly wide ears,thick legs and a really elastic forgiving skin,they're actually easier to mount than many predators. I think where the problem comes from, is you may have a taxidermist that's great with gameheads,deer & elk are actually one subject that are pretty quick to become competant with,that simply has had very little experience with mounting small to medium lifesize game. Most small game, predators included, are more time consuming and difficult to mount convincingly than other subjects like gameheads and birds. Consequently, fish mounting takes even longer to become proficient with.
Since most taxidermists cut their teeth on gamehead taxidermy,being the bread and butter of the business,they may develop a reputation as a great taxidermist, but it may not apply to all levels of the art form. A truly competant and established taxidermist, simply has all the work they need,and more often than not, will choose to turn down a subject that they're not comfortable with, as the profit tied to a single job simply isn't enough to jeapordize a bad mark on their reputation.
I'm not trying to sound like I'm dissing cheaper priced taxidermists, so I apologize if it seems that way. I believe that there SHOULD exist a range of prices and quality for sportsmen to choose from. Not everyone is willing or able to pay top dollar for a mount.
I don't expect to change anyone's mind. If you're sold on cheap taxidermy services that's great,but if you're trying to convince yourself and others that a $250 cat mount is the exact same as a $750 cat mount, you're only fooling yourself and them.
I'm sure some will assume that I'm just trying to justify my own "rip-off high prices". The fact is, when I operated my studio full time back in NY,my prices were on the high end,and I had more than enough business to keep myself and 2 employees busy on a year round basis. However, I am not looking to plug myself or anyone else for that matter. He11, I have not even re-opened my shop here in NV yet, as many who have pmed me will concur. I'm only trying to offer some understanding into why taxidermy seems expensive, and why there exists a range of prices.
PS When and if I do re-open my studio on a part time basis, you can be sure that I'll be PAYING for a sponsership here AND offering some kind of discount to PM members!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
Here's a rough breakdown of what it cost a taxidermist today to mount a large bobcat with a closed mouth, using high grade componants. By using bargain basement materials, and eliminating commercial tanning and using an inferior dry preserving powder, a taxidermist can reduce the cost by 40% to just over $125.
form $80.00
eyes $14.25
earliners $15.25
misc. supplies $20.00
supply shipping $25.00
tanning $35.00
tanning shipping $20.00
Total Cost $209.50
Now we'll include a "ballpark average" of 20 hours to completion, from check-in to finishing.(Shops that operate on a whack em & pack em basis can cut the time in half,while top level taxidermists obsessed with details can easily add 10 hours)
Trailhound, assuming your "successful taxidermist" opts for the cheaper materials,and cuts his time to minimum, it means he's working for $12.50 / hr. However, once you factor in other expenses; things like insurance (both health and business), shop expenses (even home based shops incur extra expenses), taxes (yup we have to pay taxes just like everyone else), equipment replacement costs (nothing lasts forever), hopefully have a little left over to put aside for a rainy day (you guys call it a 401k)... then your taxidermist is likely working for less wages than at Micky D's. He must have a very understanding wife with incredible benefits.
While I agree that some taxidermists are better at some subjects than others,I feel that most reputable and established taxidermists will avoid taking in subjects they don't feel comfortable with. I see posts here like "cats are difficult to mount" here a lot, but the fact is, they're NOT especially difficult to mount. Consider this, cats have pronounced facial features and spotting that really aids a taxidermist with skin allignment. Couple that with a short, stout tail,realitivly wide ears,thick legs and a really elastic forgiving skin,they're actually easier to mount than many predators. I think where the problem comes from, is you may have a taxidermist that's great with gameheads,deer & elk are actually one subject that are pretty quick to become competant with,that simply has had very little experience with mounting small to medium lifesize game. Most small game, predators included, are more time consuming and difficult to mount convincingly than other subjects like gameheads and birds. Consequently, fish mounting takes even longer to become proficient with.
Since most taxidermists cut their teeth on gamehead taxidermy,being the bread and butter of the business,they may develop a reputation as a great taxidermist, but it may not apply to all levels of the art form. A truly competant and established taxidermist, simply has all the work they need,and more often than not, will choose to turn down a subject that they're not comfortable with, as the profit tied to a single job simply isn't enough to jeapordize a bad mark on their reputation.
I'm not trying to sound like I'm dissing cheaper priced taxidermists, so I apologize if it seems that way. I believe that there SHOULD exist a range of prices and quality for sportsmen to choose from. Not everyone is willing or able to pay top dollar for a mount.
I don't expect to change anyone's mind. If you're sold on cheap taxidermy services that's great,but if you're trying to convince yourself and others that a $250 cat mount is the exact same as a $750 cat mount, you're only fooling yourself and them.
I'm sure some will assume that I'm just trying to justify my own "rip-off high prices". The fact is, when I operated my studio full time back in NY,my prices were on the high end,and I had more than enough business to keep myself and 2 employees busy on a year round basis. However, I am not looking to plug myself or anyone else for that matter. He11, I have not even re-opened my shop here in NV yet, as many who have pmed me will concur. I'm only trying to offer some understanding into why taxidermy seems expensive, and why there exists a range of prices.
PS When and if I do re-open my studio on a part time basis, you can be sure that I'll be PAYING for a sponsership here AND offering some kind of discount to PM members!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif
trapwv
New member
I guess when I said challenging to mount I may have not explained myself well. I have never mounted a bobcat and don't want to confuse anybody into thinking I know what I'm talking about but I have seen live bobcats up close and personal. I have trouble with the facial expression on most bobcat mounts I've seen, they just don't look natural. Even bobcats done by some of the best don't look right. The current issue of Van Dyke's has 5 or 6 mounts in it and only two of them look right in the face. I'm not sure what it is but the eyes, whiskers, and hair tufts on the cheeks just don't look alive. Granted, they are all exceptional mounts but I guess I'm too picky.
Like Mick said above, you will get what you pay for. It's up to you. My advice would be to make sure you have someone that will supply you with a product you'll be happy with. Ask to see some previous cat mounts or pics.
Like Mick said above, you will get what you pay for. It's up to you. My advice would be to make sure you have someone that will supply you with a product you'll be happy with. Ask to see some previous cat mounts or pics.
lungpopper
New member
trapwv,,after talking to some taxidrmists you are right about the eyes..what i am hereing is most of the mounts have the eyes set too far apart and then they try stretching the face further than they should so the eyes fit the mount and all of a sudden it doesnt look like a bobcat anymore.In general a lot of manicans need work before you set the eyes for mounting...
Mickthetaxidermist
New member
trapwv, no offense ment at all. You are right, there are some taxidermist that may be very good with some aspects of taxidermy, like deerheads,just overall don't have the experience with medium size lifesize mounts.
Lung,that's true to an extent too. Eye setting is probably the most difficult aspect of taxidermy to master, and in that the eyes are the "windows to the soul" are generally the first thing to notice if done improperly. What usually happens with that "eyes to far apart" look, is that while pulling the hide onto the form, the taxidermist is pulling the head on, by pulling rearward (head to tail).This tends to pull everything out of position,eyes,ears and cheek ruffs. If this is adequatly adjusted during the mounting process it tends to give a "pulled back" look. Narrow streamlined head, misplaced ears, and the dreaded "chinese eyed" or too far apart look. That's not ment to be an ethnic slur, just what the condition is reffered to in the taxidermy field. The thing with cats is, that all those beautiful spot patterns and markings,that should make skin alignment easier for the taxidermist, are blatently obvious to even the casual observer when not done properly. For example, while an experienced taxidermist may be able to look at a lower quality black bear mount and pick out all kinds of flaws that a hunter would never notice,mistakes on cats are readily apparent.
Any lifesize mount is more time consuming to complete, say than your average deer or elk shoulder mount, or a bird of similar size. There are a few species that pose unique challenges that can make them more difficult to mount convincingly. A few that come to mind are Otters (gristle that clings tenciously to the tail,small beady eyes,tiny ears,a nose that's completely different than most small mammals,and fur that's prone to singe prior to tanning); Raccoons (small delicate elongated toes that are more like fingers); Red Foxes (paper thin hide,long narrow legs,delicate facial features and ears that are especially susceptable to hair slippage).
You guys have given some very good advice. Always ask to see some pics of completed mounts the taxidermist has done, of the same species (or at least similar) to what you're looking to have done. Obviously a guy that has a couple of bobcat pics that look great, would likely be a good bet to do a great job on a lynx, or even a lion, due to specie similarities. Likewise, if they show you nice pictures of mounted red foxes,they'd probably be equally competant with coyotes and gray fox. Don't neccessarily expect to see an assortment of mounted fox,bobcats or coyotes in all different poses though,in a taxidermist's showroom. While I generally tried to have a couple of cat mounts on hand as I sold them regularly, many showrooms can be continuosly changing because they're largely made up of customer work that is being picked up, then replaced with other mounts as they're completed. I always tried to maintain an updated photo album,but even that isn't always easy to do. In this business, time is money, and if a shop already has plenty of work on an ongoing basis, keeping an updated album to draw new business isn't usually a high priority. I know in my studio, when my guys and I completed work, I was usually far more interested in getting it picked up and paid for, and moving onto other work.
One thing every hunter should ask their taxidermist is do they use a Tanning process (either in-house or commercial) or a Dry Preservative method for their hides. The solid majority of professional taxidermists are in agreement that tanning produces a mount that's far superior,albeit more expensive to produce, than a mount prepared with a dry powdered hide.
Lung,that's true to an extent too. Eye setting is probably the most difficult aspect of taxidermy to master, and in that the eyes are the "windows to the soul" are generally the first thing to notice if done improperly. What usually happens with that "eyes to far apart" look, is that while pulling the hide onto the form, the taxidermist is pulling the head on, by pulling rearward (head to tail).This tends to pull everything out of position,eyes,ears and cheek ruffs. If this is adequatly adjusted during the mounting process it tends to give a "pulled back" look. Narrow streamlined head, misplaced ears, and the dreaded "chinese eyed" or too far apart look. That's not ment to be an ethnic slur, just what the condition is reffered to in the taxidermy field. The thing with cats is, that all those beautiful spot patterns and markings,that should make skin alignment easier for the taxidermist, are blatently obvious to even the casual observer when not done properly. For example, while an experienced taxidermist may be able to look at a lower quality black bear mount and pick out all kinds of flaws that a hunter would never notice,mistakes on cats are readily apparent.
Any lifesize mount is more time consuming to complete, say than your average deer or elk shoulder mount, or a bird of similar size. There are a few species that pose unique challenges that can make them more difficult to mount convincingly. A few that come to mind are Otters (gristle that clings tenciously to the tail,small beady eyes,tiny ears,a nose that's completely different than most small mammals,and fur that's prone to singe prior to tanning); Raccoons (small delicate elongated toes that are more like fingers); Red Foxes (paper thin hide,long narrow legs,delicate facial features and ears that are especially susceptable to hair slippage).
You guys have given some very good advice. Always ask to see some pics of completed mounts the taxidermist has done, of the same species (or at least similar) to what you're looking to have done. Obviously a guy that has a couple of bobcat pics that look great, would likely be a good bet to do a great job on a lynx, or even a lion, due to specie similarities. Likewise, if they show you nice pictures of mounted red foxes,they'd probably be equally competant with coyotes and gray fox. Don't neccessarily expect to see an assortment of mounted fox,bobcats or coyotes in all different poses though,in a taxidermist's showroom. While I generally tried to have a couple of cat mounts on hand as I sold them regularly, many showrooms can be continuosly changing because they're largely made up of customer work that is being picked up, then replaced with other mounts as they're completed. I always tried to maintain an updated photo album,but even that isn't always easy to do. In this business, time is money, and if a shop already has plenty of work on an ongoing basis, keeping an updated album to draw new business isn't usually a high priority. I know in my studio, when my guys and I completed work, I was usually far more interested in getting it picked up and paid for, and moving onto other work.
One thing every hunter should ask their taxidermist is do they use a Tanning process (either in-house or commercial) or a Dry Preservative method for their hides. The solid majority of professional taxidermists are in agreement that tanning produces a mount that's far superior,albeit more expensive to produce, than a mount prepared with a dry powdered hide.
Lungpopper,
I took a big bobcat to Sportsman's Choice in Lincoln right before Christmas. I am having a full body mount, on a snow covered pedestal with some small brush/yellow grass around it. It was a 32 pound cat, so I wanted to show off the size of the animal. The cost is 475 plus tax. I have had Scott do a full body fox and a coyote rug--he does excellent work. I am pretty particular, seen some mounts that made me laugh. I got my money's worth from Scott. For what it's worth...
Greg C.
I took a big bobcat to Sportsman's Choice in Lincoln right before Christmas. I am having a full body mount, on a snow covered pedestal with some small brush/yellow grass around it. It was a 32 pound cat, so I wanted to show off the size of the animal. The cost is 475 plus tax. I have had Scott do a full body fox and a coyote rug--he does excellent work. I am pretty particular, seen some mounts that made me laugh. I got my money's worth from Scott. For what it's worth...
Greg C.