Factory trigger pull??

coyotekrazy

New member
I just bought a new Rem 700 chambered in a 22-250. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the trigger pull is set at from the factory. I have no complaints about the trigger, but I have yet to fire a live round down range (still trying to decide on a scope). Just wondering how many lbs Remington sets the trigger at before it leaves the factory.

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Hunt'em Hard
CoyoteKrazy
 
Coyotecrazy,

That is a very good question. The most accurate I can give you is this..... they vary.

The lightest that I have ever measured is 5 lbs. 4 oz. The heaviest was 8 lbs. 9 oz.

Any gunsmith in your area should have a trigger resistance scale and he will be able to tell you what yours is at exactly.

"I have no complaints about the trigger, but I have yet to fire a live round down range"
That makes me shiver, I hope you used a snap cap. If not you might want to look into one or you will need a new firing pin and spring pretty soon.

Ryan

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coyotekrazy, you can measure the trigger pull yourself very easily. Just hang a baggie, or a soup can, or whatever you have off the trigger. Start filling it with sand, or water, or pennies or rocks - you get the idea
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. Fill it until the sear breaks then weigh the container. Or, just rig up a cheap fish scale (you know, the trusty old Zebco "de-liar") to measure it (have to use something that doesn't stretch to hook it onto the trigger). Either way, you can find out within a couple ounces real easy.

You would think Rem. and all the other factories would have a specific wieght they set the triggers at. Maybe they do? But the fact is that the trigger pull on new rifles varies by as much as 5 lb's between two identical new rifles.

- DAA
 
First let me say you got yourself a very fine rifle.I've shot my 700 .22-250 for years and wouldn't trade if fer nuttin.I know that my Remington was set at about 6 or 7 pounds.I had mine lightened to around 2 pounds made all the difference in the world.GOOD HUNTING
 
Thanks for the feedback. I guess I should have mentioned that I was using a snap cap when checking the trigger.OOPPS
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Ut Caller you brought up another question. Before I actually bought the rifle I was tossing around the idea of having the trigger set at 2.5 or three pounds. What do you consider to light of a trigger for shooting coyotes (with gloves on).

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Hunt'em Hard
CoyoteKrazy
 
Coyotekrazy,I like my 2 pound trigger pull,but it is something I definitely had to get used to.If I had to do it again I would have had it a little stiffer,like probably 3 pound especially with gloves.But now I'm pretty used to it.I really feel that since I lightened my trigger I have tightened my groups.Hope that helps.GOOD HUNTING
 
Coyotecrazy,

I agree with Utahcaller get that trigger lightened a little and it will help you shoot better groups. I have had all my rifles triggers set to 3lbs. I had a 2lb once and that was too light for me for general big game and predator hunting. Good luck with that new rifle!

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There are a lot of people that are overly cautious about dry firing.

Generally, avoid it on shotguns and rimfires, use snap caps with your shotgun, if possible.

Centerfire rifles and pistols, don't worry about it, practice all you want. I have snapped many rifles and pistols thousands of times, never a problem.

Good hunting. LB
 
I have heard the same as Leonard mentions. I always use a snap cap in my shotgun but that is it. I have had dealer tell me it was not good to dry fire a rimfire pistol, yet the instruction manual from the factory said it was OK. What are your thoughts on that? Of course I only dry fire when I need to. Like to release the tension before I case the rifle at the end of the day.
 
Some rimfires, the firing pin hits the edge of the chamber when dry firing. Not good. Others, don't, dry firing no problem.

Centerfire bolt guns, no problem, as far as I know. I used to practice breathing and trigger control dry firing several nights a week - for a couple solid years. Thousands upon thousands of dry fires. No problems. Snap caps for centerfire bolt guns are a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I think?

- DAA
 
Leonard and DAA are correct about not needing snap caps on centerfires or rimfires (with properly fitted firing pins).

I have dry fired M700, M70, AR15, M1A, and Wichita centerfires, and Anschutz, Feinwerkbau, and a Ruger pistol rimfire many, many thousands of times. I have never had any problems from this.

What you absolutely can not dry fire is any type of spring piston air rifle or pistol.
 
I dryfired my Wichita piston only a few times and the cocking cam chipped on the end making it very rough to cock. Had to send it back to Wichita to get it fixed. Was advised not to anymore. Had to make my own snap caps. Put a pencil eraser in the primer hole. Have not had any problems with any Remingtons or Winchesters, but, I just don't make it a practice anymore to dryfire without protection
 
My thoughts on dry firing.......

When the trigger is pulled and the firing pin is released what does it hit? Metal. Metal that has no give to it at all. Unlike a primer or snap cap. If your firing pin is one that is hardened it is brittle and will in most cases break or splinter. Most machinist's can tell you that.

Some of you seem to have good luck when it comes to dryfire, as for me I prefer to never test my odds.
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Ryan

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THA, we had something similar happen dry firing another make of custom action (cocking piece actually broke). When I spoke with the maker I asked him if dry firing was a "no-no". He said dry firing absolutely was not the problem, fautly material or manufacturing on HIS part was the problem. Told me to dry fire his actions all I wanted and it wouldn't ever hurt a thing. Said the part that failed would have failed under normal firing given a chance.

Ryank, the surfaces that stop forward travel of the pin during dry fire are the same ones that stop it during live fire. Sure, the primer cushions it a bit, but unless there is a problem waiting to happen with the mechanism (as noted above), it shouldn't be a problem. Personally, I'd rather have it break and find out about it while dry firing.

- DAA
 
Another thing that has bearing is that in the case of Model 1911 45ACP with the reciprcating firing pin, there is no metal to metal stop, since it rebounds after forward inertia. It's possible that you could dry fire a Government Model (and clones) 'til hell froze over and it wouldn't damage the firing pin. I'm almost there!
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LB
 
THA
I would contact Wichita directly and bitch. Any action used for target competition must be capable of dry firing. Dry firing is such an integral part of serious competition, you can not be competitive without it.

Even in the field, dry firing is a valuable and enlightening experience. If you can't keep the crosshair on the proper part of the target dry firing, you have no business shooting a live round at it.
 
My Wichita was made in the late 70's. Nolan fixed it but since then, I never trusted dry fireing without snap caps. Just principal now.
 
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