Savage 110 trigger adjustment?

gashogford

New member
Does anybody know how to adjust these triggers? This is not a accu triggerthough --just the standard one. It's pretty rough out of the box. Should of bought the accu trigger!But on a light note this thing can shoot ohhhh my!!!
 
In my opinion , the best advice would be to look into an aftermarket trigger . Rifle Basix , Sharp Shooters , ans Timney all make replacement triggers for the Savage rifles . I have used all three of these and they are all a bunch better than factory triggers . Not a big investment either . All are pretty easy to install .
 
How handy are you? Most bolt action triggers are pretty easy to disassemble and a little stoning can do wonders just smooth out he rough edges and tooling marks.
 
I'm not sure if the 110s are the same as the 112s but if they are, be careful. If you adjust 112s incorrectly, they will fire when you clicked the safety off, after pulling the trigger with it on. Just proceed with caution, I like the idea of an aftermarket, you'll be glad you spent the money. Just my 2 cents.
 
My 2 boys have the Stevens 200 Models and I was able to get theirs down below 2 pounds using a fine diamond stone followed by an ultra fine ceramic stone, following the instructions on the savage site. Always test them afterwards to make sure they won't fire when dropped or with the safety on. They are very smooth and predictable now.
 
Take it to a gunsmith!!! If you don't feel 100% confident about doing it-- could avoid an accidental discharge. I have an accu-trigger and it is sweet and easy to adjust by the user. I don't think it can be installed on your rifle without stock work though. Good Luck
 
When I purchased a Model 11 back in 2000 the trigger was one of the first issues I tackled. I learned that the safety button also has to be modified to be sure you have a working safety on the rifle.
I also heard that the Savage trigger sear is made from Sintered metal. That is metal particals molded with a resin for ease and cost effectiveness. I don't know if Savage really uses this process for their triggers, though. What I was told is that if you file down the outer layer of Sintered metal the hardness is gone and it may wear excessively after that. Anyone have the scoop on this? Mine is still working fine at about 3 lbs.
 
Quote:
I'm not sure if the 110s are the same as the 112s but if they are, be careful. If you adjust 112s incorrectly, they will fire when you clicked the safety off, after pulling the trigger with it on. Just proceed with caution, I like the idea of an aftermarket, you'll be glad you spent the money. Just my 2 cents.




The 110's are like the 112's & this man is very correct about being careful. I have a 7mm that you had better not touch the trigger & then click off the safety. I have since stiffened it back up a little, you can easily adjust it just be careful they're touchy!
 
Never stone or file a Savage trigger. It only destroys them. They have a soft slick coating that helps the soft underlying steel. You stone or file the coating off,and it will be worse than before. If you read on the savage trigger job page,***the guy warns of destroying the trigger.
If you do the best trigger job and it does inprove the pull/smoothness,it will be short lived. jerryboy
 
Jerry,
I have to disagree with it soon becoming worse than before after stoning. I realized that filing/stoning the system may be perilous before I started (6 years ago) but I proceeded with caution and decided to replace if it didn't work out. It did work out very well and after at least 1000 trigger pulls later it is still a good trigger, safe and smooth. I used Brownell's Mold Release spray on the parts as it is a dry lube. Before deeming it complete I used a leather mallet and beat hard on the action cocked, uncocked, cocked with satefy on and cocked with safety off. Then I slamed the butt stock down hard a few times to insure a misfire wasn't in the waiting.
I did ruin the first safety mechanism by breaking it. It was replaced. The square edge of the safety switch must be rounded off where it engages the other parts of the trigger assembly or it will (1. not slide past them or (2. allow the firing pin to fire after the safety is disengauged if the trigger is pulled while the safety is on. That is NOT AN ACCEPTABLE TRIGGER ON ANY RIFLE!
I tried lightening and smoothing the trigger system by lessening the spring tension alone but that would not work to my standards. After careful study the task of stoning was started (not my first trigger job) and I am happy with the way it turned out. I am willing to admit that should the parts become worn and unsatisfactory the assembly will be replaced. That doesn't seem to be a problem at this time. I would like to know if Savage does use Sintered Metal moldings in these assemblys, though.
Gashogford,
An after market trigger is probably the best way to go for the new gun owner.
Now that the Accutrigger is standard on all Savages this is a mute point. Unfortunately Stevens are not that way. It would be best to buy a Savage with the Accutrigger and forget the Stevens. You won't be saving any money in the long run.
 
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