will regular full length dies decap primers that have military crimp?

I'm interested in the same question tgubler.

Just use them the same as any brass, they will work fine...

I am new to reloading. i have a new hornady electronic scale. it has measurements in g(grams i am guessing),
oz (ounces),
gn (grain i am guessing), kt (karat). Question is am weighting powder with "g" or "gn"?

You are correct g = grams and gn = grains. Big difference. You want grains.

I just recently became a member of PM and i have to give it to you guys this website is GREAT! I've been reloading for close to 2 years now and absolutly love it. Thanks for all your great advice! Keep up the good work.

28 yrs of reloading and made my 1st major mistake! Grabbed the Reloader 7 instead of the Reloader 15 [both similar black containers]. My reloading bench now has all powder containers arranged by burn rate rather than by manufacturer.

I started reloading in 1977 and have enjoyed every moment of it. It is a challenge and a science. I suppose almost everyone goes through the "power crazy" phase at some point but, I have discovered that if you varmint hunt consistency is what you are after. You want a tight group with consistent and repeatable data. Buy a good reloading manual and read ALL of the stuff BEFORE you get to the load data. Firearm safety starts at the bench!

When you are doing load development a simple rule will save you time and grief. Take an extra fine sharpie and write on the case the powder and charge, it will come off when you polish the brass. I learned this the hard way, I had all of my loads arranged in a range box in a certain way. On the way to the line I tripped and the box fell and opened scattering the contents. Now I got to pick them all up and go back to the house and pull every single bullet. Wasted time and effort. My granddad always told me "You gotta be smarter than what you are working with." Sound advice.

I have an overstock of 22-250 brass Remington NIB 1,000 count. I will sell it for $287.50 plus shipping.

hey guys im new to the site.. how can i post a pic of my gun on here? hope i can get other ppls gun pics too thanks

Hey , Jack, shouldn't "Help new Reloaders" be moved to the Reloader Forum along with the "Everything AR" thread to the AR Forum?

Boom

Due to the high cost and availability of ammo, I've recently started reloading myself even though I've been shooting weapons for over 45 years. I've read various books and articles and bought the book, The ABC's of Reloading which I recommend all new reloaders read. The one thing I've noticed in terms of load recommendations by gunpowder manufactures, is their number of grains and the OAL sizing of casings is sometimes too high. Because of these discrepancies, I've come to cross reference load recommendations through two and three sources and go with the LOWER numbers simply because you can always increase the amount of power you go with or a shorter casing which won't create chambering problems. But I do enjoy reading ideas of folks who've been doing this stuff for years and learn alot from their experiences.

Question for everybody....Being new to reloading, I like to verify any load and casing specs through various sources to make sure I'm not overloading in weight and size. I've noticed something in some reference material that there are specs for say "22-250" and then another "22-250 Improved" which show different spec on the casing size. What does "Improved" mean? Thx.

It means Ackley Improved, the shoulder is changed to enable the case to hold more powder. NEVER use improved data unless your firearm has an improved chamber.

Thx for the info. I never do anything with firearms that I don't know what it means. Unfortunately I;ve seen some idiots who have and the end result ain't exactly pretty.

There is allot of valuable info on the thread. I've printed it and will keep in my loading notes for sure. Here are a few thoughts I have on handloading.

When I went to boot camp, Many Many years of ago, they drilled one thing in our heads that that I remember like it was yesterday, "Just Becasue It's New, Doesn't Make It Clean". They were referring to our gear.

Ok, that's interesting, but how does that apply to hand-loading. Well, when I buy components, expecially brass and bullets, I assume nothing. I "measure everything", weights, dimensions, etc, and I record those values via lot numbers, especially for load development. I determine what the lot is, min / max / mean, and whether it's suitable for what i'm doing. I also weigh these rounds in many different stages during the loading process as a safety check. Especially duing primer seat and powder charge steps, then again after bullet seating.

Why is that important, safety primarily, but also consistent & accurate loads. How would that 40gr load work if by chance you got one 55gr bullet, and didn't check the weights? If your on the edge of your max pressure and velocities, could be a serious and possiblly fatel problem.

The other thing I've found invauable, is record keeping, both at the reloading bench and the range. That coupled with a solid reloading procedure can produce amazing reuslts that are safe. Each load / build is a procedure on it's own. Sure, there are mauny common steps, but each load has a unique process that should be followed.

Another thing I'm always careful about is component selection. Once I've built up a load combination, say on Norma or Remington Brass, If I don't have that brass available, I don't swap one for the other. Same for all the rest of the components. If I dont have what I built the load on, I don't load it until I have the right compnents.

The last one I'd like to strees is establishing a proper load development process and sticking too it. There are many models available for this, but you need to research each, understand there purpose & limitations as well as the safety aspects of each. Just because a manual calls out a min / max component combinaiton, don't assume it's safe for your particular weapon, as each weapon is like a finger print, they are all different and you should start low, then build up to what works best and most importantly, works safely. If you change any of the primary components, you must assume (from a safety stanpoint) that nothing has been verified to be safe, as you've not gone through your load development process with them.

For a few final thoughts, I find handloading as enjoyable as shooting itself, however, safety is the primary concern for me, as it is for "all" the major ammo MFG's. They spend millions on safety & load testing, and for a good reason, they want us to enjoy the product, but they want and need it to be safe. Assume nothing, validate everything, enjoy the hobby and most of all ...

"Be Safe"

I think the best advice that I can lend that hasn't been said is, buy the best equipment you can afford--a good scale is a must have. Don't reload a bunch of cartridges, try making a few first and see if they are what you are looking for.

Hi I'm thinking about getting started in reloading when I get back from Iraq in a couple months. I'm looking at the different reloading sets and notice a huge difference in the Lee and RCBS equipment as far as price is concerned. Currently I'm looking into the Lee Anniversary Reloading kit with the challenger press. Would this be adept for reloading? I'm not looking to reload large magnums the rifles that i would be reloading for are .223, .243 and .30-06. Would this kit fit my needs for a while? Also what books do you guys recomend for looking up loads. I've already ordered the ABC's of reloading just want to make sure I keep this as safe and accurate as possible.

There is nothing wrong with Lee Dies just cause they are cheaper (I shot a big whitetail doe at 400 yards with my 7x57 Mauser and 160 gr. Nosler Partition loaded with Lee dies.

Lee makes some very effective and cheap case prep tools e.g. case trimmers, Lee hand Priming tool is a must (under $20).

Buy a primer pocket uniformer from Sinclair International; works great with a battery-powered screwdriver adaptor which Sinclair also sells.

Buy an R.E. Wilson case mouth de-burring/chamfering hand tool ($10.00-15.00).

An RCBS 10-10 balance beam powder scale ($140.00 retail but look around for one at a discount or a package deal, auctions, etc. [most expensive of all critcal tools, but you need a great, reliable, accurate scale].

Another must is a good dial caliper for measuring case length/loaded cartridge length (good ones out there for $30.00 although I hate to admit they are made in China; a better Mitituyo from Japan will cost you $70 or $80-90 Starett from USA).

Good manuals are the Lyman (shows a lot of loads with many brands of bullets) , Nosler (they like testing w/ Nosler bullets only so if you wanna spend $ for Nosler bullets, that's OK...data can be judiciously i.e. carefully extrapolated to other bullet brands), Speer. And, Accurate, and ramshot powders have FREE manuals showing loads with their powders and various bullets [great powders for the .223/30-06/.243, by the way].

Spending $60-70 on several manuals and reading them should
be your FIRST thing. That muster-out Army pay is almost gone on this list, eh?

You're Welcome, and I salute your services overseas!!!

Lee dies are excellent in spite of their low price.