Hey guys it has been along time since i got a chance to write to yous. I had to go back to college. I have been reading what you guys use,a one million candle power spotlight with a red lense. I use a coon hunting light with a red lense that is alittle more powerful than a maglight. I havent' had good luck with a 1million cp because i thought that it was to powerful because even though that can't see the light it burns their eyes. i use the rule of thumb that i should be able to look into it without blinking. i can't see the body of the animal real good but can see their eyes. so do any of yous have trouble with that powerful of a spot light or is that what you use all the time.
ISN'T THAT TO POWERFUIL
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Rusty Holt
New member
I think a lot of it depends on the type of country you're hunting in. Out here in W. Texas, you can see for miles so most of us tend to use the brighter light to effectively illuminate the eyes of the incoming predator at pretty far distances.
I also keep the main beam up over the eyes of anything coming in so not to overwhelm them with the brightness. In addition, I installed a rheostat on my light this past weekend which will allow me to control the amount of light I shoot out there....so I have total control over my spotlight.
Many coon hunters don't use much light due to the fact that they are only need to illuminate a single tree (or even a tree limb) or creek bank, which typically isn't very far away. Same goes for those varmint hunters that hunt in the thick brush like we have down here in East Texas. I'd rather have a million c.p. light and not need it, rather than need it and not have it. Just my $0.02 worth.
Take care,
Rusty
I also keep the main beam up over the eyes of anything coming in so not to overwhelm them with the brightness. In addition, I installed a rheostat on my light this past weekend which will allow me to control the amount of light I shoot out there....so I have total control over my spotlight.
Many coon hunters don't use much light due to the fact that they are only need to illuminate a single tree (or even a tree limb) or creek bank, which typically isn't very far away. Same goes for those varmint hunters that hunt in the thick brush like we have down here in East Texas. I'd rather have a million c.p. light and not need it, rather than need it and not have it. Just my $0.02 worth.
Take care,
Rusty
Tommy Johnson
New member
Hey Rusty, tell me how that switch works. I need to buy an on/off switch for mine so when I do that I may go ahead and get a rheostat as well.
BTW Does that rheostat have an off position? That would save me a little.
Thanks and take care.
[This message has been edited by Tommy Johnson (edited 01-28-2002).]
BTW Does that rheostat have an off position? That would save me a little.
Thanks and take care.
[This message has been edited by Tommy Johnson (edited 01-28-2002).]
Rusty i was concidering doing exactly what you did so i can turn down the light to find the eyes and then turn it right up when the shot is about to be taken.
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Wayne
Homepage : http://www.clix.to/eddiev
Email: lilozboy@hotmail.com
"Hold Steady Make the first one count"
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Wayne
Homepage : http://www.clix.to/eddiev
Email: lilozboy@hotmail.com
"Hold Steady Make the first one count"
Rusty Holt
New member
I won't take the credit for this idea....as Tommy knows, I got the idea from Randy Watson.
I purchased my rheostat at Heavy Vehicle Parts (that's the actual name of the place)here in Midland. I also bought a heavy-duty switch to replace the one that comes on the Brinkmann lights. I've had problems with switches burning up in the past so I decided to end that problem once and for all. The rheostat and new switch cost me $58.00. No small potatoes for just a couple of small parts, but they seem to have done the trick. I don't know diddly when it comes to the fundamentals of electricity, but we're only dealing with 12v battery so it's nothing to worry about. I just took the hood off of my spotlight to expose all of the "guts" of the light, then I just thought the process through. I'll unscrew the hood again tonight and take notes on how it is all connected. Regarding the rheostat and the on/off function....no, it won't turn the light off. It would be nice if it did, though. I never thought of that but it would be handy to be able to do-away with the switch all together. The rheostat that I bought is attached to the switch and the switch controls the actual on/off of the light. I can then turn intensity of the light down (your actually turning the rheostat "up") and the actual bulb inside the hood will emit only a faint glow. I drilled a hole in the back of my light and installed it next to my new switch. You need to pay attention when doing that...the rheostat takes up quite a bit of room and needs to be positioned as far to the side of the spotlight housing as possible due to the bulb which is convex and points toward the back of the spotlight housing. Be sure to hook everything up first to make sure you've got everything in working order.....then go ahead with mounting the new switch and rheostat. If y'all have any questions, feel free to give me a call tomorrow night (Wednesday) after 8:30 @ (915) 620-9182. I'm gonna be welding tonight after work so I won't be around. Hope this wasn't too confusing....like I said, I don't know squat about electrical components but if I can hook it up and make it work...anybody can.
Take it easy!
Rusty
I purchased my rheostat at Heavy Vehicle Parts (that's the actual name of the place)here in Midland. I also bought a heavy-duty switch to replace the one that comes on the Brinkmann lights. I've had problems with switches burning up in the past so I decided to end that problem once and for all. The rheostat and new switch cost me $58.00. No small potatoes for just a couple of small parts, but they seem to have done the trick. I don't know diddly when it comes to the fundamentals of electricity, but we're only dealing with 12v battery so it's nothing to worry about. I just took the hood off of my spotlight to expose all of the "guts" of the light, then I just thought the process through. I'll unscrew the hood again tonight and take notes on how it is all connected. Regarding the rheostat and the on/off function....no, it won't turn the light off. It would be nice if it did, though. I never thought of that but it would be handy to be able to do-away with the switch all together. The rheostat that I bought is attached to the switch and the switch controls the actual on/off of the light. I can then turn intensity of the light down (your actually turning the rheostat "up") and the actual bulb inside the hood will emit only a faint glow. I drilled a hole in the back of my light and installed it next to my new switch. You need to pay attention when doing that...the rheostat takes up quite a bit of room and needs to be positioned as far to the side of the spotlight housing as possible due to the bulb which is convex and points toward the back of the spotlight housing. Be sure to hook everything up first to make sure you've got everything in working order.....then go ahead with mounting the new switch and rheostat. If y'all have any questions, feel free to give me a call tomorrow night (Wednesday) after 8:30 @ (915) 620-9182. I'm gonna be welding tonight after work so I won't be around. Hope this wasn't too confusing....like I said, I don't know squat about electrical components but if I can hook it up and make it work...anybody can.
Take it easy!
Rusty
Rusty Holt
New member
BTW...the rheostat I have is made by Pollak and is part #52-263. You might be able to search the net for it if you don't have easy access to a place that handles heavy truck parts. You might also search for a rheostat that has the on/off function also. Mine doesn't, but Tommy has a good idea going.
Take it easy,
Rusty
Take it easy,
Rusty
For those of you who know a little bit about electronics a simple 12v light dimmer can be built I found one on the web and built it myself it works great saves power and the pot doesnt have to be heavy duty because the current doesnt flow through it. Parts were pretty cheap easily under 15 dollars.
RODNEY DALE
New member
You can go to lightforce.net and get the 12volt rheostat control and on/off switch in one little box. The unit cost me 33.oo dollars. Very nice setup. It easily mounted on my lsi battery pack.
coyote control
New member
There is a company that makes a "red defusser"lens for their spot lights, this really softens the brightness of the light.So with a 2 million C.P. it works just great.
www.lightforce.com
www.lightforce.com