Need advice on reloading cheap Federal hulls.

DAL

DAL

New member
Although I've been reloading metallic cartridges off and on for about 20 years, I have never reloaded shotgun shells. Recently, I thought I'd remedy this, so I bought a Lee Load-All II in 12 ga. to test the waters.

Then, reality set in.

Naturally, based on my previous loading experience, I just assumed components for shotguns were all interchangeable. After really looking at the reloading info., though, I found out I was way off base. The pile of once-fired Federal Game-Shok hulls I have aren't listed as reloadable hulls in my manuals.

What to do?

I have a few once-fired Winchester AA hulls on hand, which I'll eventually use, but I really wanted to use the cheapies first, even if I only get one or two loadings out of them. But since I don't see any reloading data on the cheapies, I am at a loss as to how to proceed.

Which wad to use, which powder? I hate to chuck all of the hulls into the trash without using them at least one more time. A simple, decent-patterning 1 oz. rabbit load is all I'm looking for.

Please advise.
DAL
 
Pick up Lyman's Shotgun Reloading Handbook

Go to page 36-37 and cut one open and compare to the pics:
More than likely it is the same as Federal Plastic w/ Paper Basewad. It uses the same design and demensions as the Federal Premium, Classic, Hi-Power, Field, Duck and Pheasant, Game Load and American Eagle. This is their most common hull. It is a high brass, plated steel head.

If you have low brass that is truely brass, use the Federal Gold Metal Plastic load data.

As far as a combo of powder and wad there are thousands of combinations that will work, but you need to decide which powder and wad to determine the powder amount. There are light/target and heavy loads available too.

The major difference you will notice with handloads is the lack of holes in your pattern. Most economy ammo uses soft lead that deforms both from firing and because of the choke. Using magnum (harder) shot will greatly improve your shot pattern.

Once you decide of powder or wads, go to that manufacturer's web site for that product and you will see the combinations that they recommend.

I've been using remington Figure 8 wads, but I am using 1 1/8 once of shot and I highly recommend Hodgdon's Clays powder...it burns so clean that I use it after using bought ammo to clean the bore.
 
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I just assumed components for shotguns were all interchangeable.



STOP! You are absolutely correct......they are ALL VERY DIFFERENT!!!

I have seen shotgun receivers destroyed /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif by using "guesswork" reloads.

I have reloaded shotgun shells for many, many years, and consider myself more schooled than "most" shotgunners about reloading. Before you go ANY further, do yourself a favor and call Ballistic Products . They are the EXPERTS in reloading shotshells. Get their reloading data. They will send it to you for a nominal charge. They have far and above the best reloading data for shotguns. These guys are shotgun experts, and shotguns are all they do.

Their website is www.ballisticproducts.com /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif

PLEASE don't reload any shotshells until you get a manual or data from someone who knows.

Different hulls have different inside dimensions (just like rifle brass) and can cause monsterous pressures with the wrong powder. The amount of shot causes the pressures to fluctuate also. And there is a HUGE difference in the burn rate of different shotgun powders.

Please, please, please get soem data before you go any further.

EDIT: No matter what ANYONE tells you.....remember this:

Remington made 3 different hulls. They all look alike, and EVEN SAY THE SAME THING ON THEM! The only way to tell them apart is that one is an 8-star crimp, and the other is a 6-star.

Federal hulls are even worse! Some of the "low brass" hulls were the same internally as the higher brass. Some of them even were larger inside than the high brass hulls.

BRASS HEIGHT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE STRENGTH OF THE HULL, OR IT'S PRESSURE CAPABILITIES! It's merely a selling point for the manufacturer! We used to load our strongest duck loads in Fiocchi hulls that HAD NO BRASS AT ALL! Brass means squat. Never forget that!

 
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Ballistic Products is a very good resource. AS is the Lyman handbook.

Also, keep in mind that the Winchester AA shotshells changed back a three or four years ago, so just because it says "AA" on it does not mean that they all take the same loads. Contact Winchester, and they will tell you how to tell whether your shells are the old style or the new style.


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Contact Winchester, and they will tell you how to tell whether your shells are the old style or the new style.




Ballistic Products has that information in their reloading data.

It goes into very fine detail about how to tell different hulls apart, and which loads to use with them safely.

Honestly.......I wouldn't put my safety on the line depending upon information that I got from Winchester over the telephone.
 
First, thank you for the thoughtful, concerned replies. Shooters in general are such a helpful, great group of people, and this is another example of that.

Second, don't worry about me cooking up my own reloading recipes from cobbled-together components. That's one fool's road I will not travel. If I can't find the data I need on reloading Federal Game Shok hulls, I'll just chuck the lot of 'em in the trash (actually, I'm leaning towards this now).

BPI looks like an excellent site. Thanks for the tip on it. I will be using them soon.
DAL
 
Beware of using promotional or the lower cost hulls that are readily available in the garbage at most ranges. Most will have a fiber basewad that may loosen after one or two reloads and lodge in the barrel. This may occur after one, two or more reloads, but it will happen someday.

I stick with AA's, Remington STS/Peters Blue Magic (nostalgia there) and occasionally Federal Gold Medals. The price you pay for good hulls is minimal for the number of times they can be reloaded and the peace of mind they bring.
 
I believe that the hulls you have are plastic base wad hulls and probably use the Fed gold medal plastic data.If you are going to use Alliant powders you can call them and speak to a man named Ben Ammonet,I believe thats his name,and he will tell you whether they are reloadable or not,and what data to use. Their ph# is 800-276-9337
There is lots of info on most powder manufacture's websites about shotshells,Alliant,Hodgdon,IMR and Accurate,there is really no need in going to BP's website unless you are loading their products.
You say you want a good 1 oz load, try Green Dot,Red Dot, or Solo 1000 with a Claybuster or Down Range wad.
 
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