wcc .223 brass

josebd

josebd

New member
dont these have the military crimp primers? i knocked out a primer,resized,then i got a cci magnum primer and it went right in,without using a swagger? i thought that was the reason for swagging?
 
It depends on where you get your brass. The folks that remanufacture .223 use military brass and remove the crimp prior to them reloading it. If you got a bunch of that brass then the crimp has already been removed.
 
all the brass look like it has the crimp in it,i knocked out a primer and micked it,its the same as a new one,cci 450. i read the reason for swagging is for the new primer to go in easier,the swagger cuts the ridge on the inside of the primer pocket!
 
The crimp mark is still there, they cant take that out, but the roll created from the crimp mark is gone. They are good to go
 
no need to swage if they have been done allready. Swaging is a one time thing, just like cutting primer pockets or deburring flas holes. once done they are good to go till you junk them. Trimming will have to be done a couple times depending on you techniques.
 
Yes, that is the year that they were made. When you purchase your brass, did you have a choice of GRADE 1 or a GRADE 3? I so, grade 1 will already have the primer and crimp removed.

If you are having no problem putting a primer back into the pocket, they probably have already been done. Since the brass is bulk military, I would take a Lyman crimp reamer to each case after de-priming just to make sure. If there is no crimp, you will know right away. One other thing, you may have to use a small base die if you have a custom chambered rifle or a semi-auto....JOHN
 
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The wcc stand for winchester cartridge company. the number denotes the date of run.If they are reman, they have been swaged. You would allmost have to be picking them up at an army range to get ones that are crimped. you can definately tell if they have not been swaged. The edge of the brass from the primer pocket will be rolled around the primer. If the new primers are going in easily, with hanging up on the lip you are good to go. I have run into a few that will want to catch the primer on the edge while priming. a quick turn with a case mouth chamfer tool will bevel the entrance and works fine for me.
 
im shooting them in a savage 12fv,getting then ready,with regular winchester brass,i loaded up a load with blc2 27.8 grains. real accurate. do i need to reduce my load?if so where do i need to start?26.0?i heard the wcc brass might be thicker and to reduce load and work back up!
 
im shooting them in a savage 12fv,getting then ready,with regular winchester brass,i loaded up a load with blc2 27.8 grains. real accurate. do i need to reduce my load?if so where do i need to start?26.0?i heard the wcc brass might be thicker and to reduce load and work back up!
 
If you are pushing pressures allready in your gun, back up about 10% and go from there. If pressures are not bad with the others you could back up 5%.
 
i got a load worked up today,probably couldve used same load as i did with the regular winchester brass,but i stayed a little lower grouped real good. no problems other than the bolt was alittle stiffer closing on my savage 12 fv,i did full length resize,why would it be alittle stiffer? with the regular brass it closes good?
 
When changing to a different brand or lot of brass it is real easy to tell if it is thicker. Just compare the weight of the empty cases. If it weighs more, you need to reduce charges and work up. If it weighs the same or less, you should be good to go with your existing loads. Of course if you are loading real hot you should always reduce and work up when changing any component.

Jack
 
Just a guess, but the brass could be a bit harder and springing back more after resizing. Using a shoulder length gauge like the RCBS "case mic" will take the guesswork out of this and similar problems. Actually measuring how long the shoulder length is before and after resizing will make adjusting the die to the proper length a 'piece of cake.'

Jack
 
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